XJWonders makes those trans mounts, makes engine mounts too. I have the brown dog rubber mounts and I'm needing to replace the bushings in them a little over 2 years later (put them in January of 2016).
^^^X2 Sorry I meant to respond to this but XJWonders makes them. I didn't get the motor mounts yet but I think I still owe him for some. Damn I need hit him up
^^^X2 Sorry I meant to respond to this but XJWonders makes them. I didn't get the motor mounts yet but I think I still owe him for some. Damn I need hit him up
I think I'm going to stick with my rubber mounts in the Cherokee, but when I get around to engine and trans swapping my Comanche I'll throw his mounts in there. That's the current plan at least.
Nicked the side of the console while cutting the hole - oh well, it's a Jeep.
Push button switch only works when the ignition is in the "ON" position.
The switch itself is not rated to start a vehicle starter and must be wired to a relay of some kind. I have mine wire to a 30 amp relay behind the steering lower kick panel.
Wiring nightmare I know - I'll clean it up eventually. I keep saying that.
Shot of the backside of the switch - Tiny terminals.
Interesting because I just did this to my 1995 yesterday using a switch to start it becuase if I put a relay in the starter relay under the hood it will either run and die then not start or just not start without some kind of wire jumper. Same thing I had to put my key in on position and then I hooked up switch and ran it into Jeep. I didn't mount mine all pretty like yours yet but at least I can start it now without having to pop hood everytime and use a jumper wire. Think people look at me strange when I start my jeep from under the hood lol.
Defiantly a issue I need to resolve but in the meantime it works.
Interesting because I just did this to my 1995 yesterday using a switch to start it becuase if I put a relay in the starter relay under the hood it will either run and die then not start or just not start without some kind of wire jumper. Same thing I had to put my key in on position and then I hooked up switch and ran it into Jeep. I didn't mount mine all pretty like yours yet but at least I can start it now without having to pop hood everytime and use a jumper wire. Think people look at me strange when I start my jeep from under the hood lol.
Defiantly a issue I need to resolve but in the meantime it works.
Not sure on your issue, but good luck, wiring gremlins suck.
This was just an add-on issue, I've always wanted a push-button style ignition.
I can still start mine the stock way with the key, plus i have my remote key-less start.
Hope you get your issues squared away quickly, unless you like all the attention you get from popping the hood to start your Jeep. LOL
On the other hand thats the simplest anti-theft deterrent I've seen yet.
Not sure on your issue, but good luck, wiring gremlins suck.
This was just an add-on issue, I've always wanted a push-button style ignition.
I can still start mine the stock way with the key, plus i have my remote key-less start.
Hope you get your issues squared away quickly, unless you like all the attention you get from popping the hood to start your Jeep. LOL
On the other hand thats the simplest anti-theft deterrent I've seen yet.
True ha ha! But mine is push button inside the vehicle now. I'm probably going to run the wiring up in the dash and place the button in a solid location. In the event I get the situation sorted out the switch can be used for some other accessory later but at least it will be mounted probably. Right now its just sitting in front of my shifter. I turn key to on, push button starts up! No more people watching me under the hood.
Clockspring replacement - airbag light on & no cruise control
My airbag light was staying on while driving all the time, my horn didn't work and my cruise control stopped working.
My online searches determined it to be my clockspring has taken a sh**.
New clockspring & cruise control switches I purchased from eBay
Shot of the old switches - I saved the old switches for spares incase the replacement ones fail *knock on wood*
About 30 minutes prior to starting this job I disconnected the battery - removing the airbag you don't want it going off unexpectedly
Removed the steering column half pieces to give better access to the clockspring wiring
The yellow connector is for the airbag and the white connector is for the horn/cruise system
2 5/16" bolts removed will unbolt the airbag from the steering wheel (DO NOT DISCONNECT AIRBAG CONNECTOR (YELLOW) UNLESS BATTERY HAS BEEN DISCONNECTED AT LEAST 30 MINUTES PRIOR)
The cruise switches use torx screws - I can't remember what size they were
Airbag set off to the side face up incase accidental discharge
21MM nut needs to be removed and a steering wheel puller setup to remove wheel
Just like this - doesn't take much force to remove wheel
Steering wheel removed giving a better view of the non-functioning clockspring
Dirty isn't it - couldn't have helped the clockspring working either
Pull towards you slightly the release the 2 clips 1 on the top and 1 on the bottom
Pull off to the side and disconnect the 2 wiring connections
New/replacement clockspring snaps into place just as easy as the old one came off
Feed the wires through the slot on the steering wheel and tighten the nut
Reinstall the switches, the airbag and the trim pieces.
Reconnect the battery and test it out
The airbag light is off now and both my cruise & horn works again
Well the unthinkable has happened, I've gotten sick and tired of the Flowmaster sound.
I know right, how dare I?
I got the Flowmaster replacement removed and cut off the turn down pipe I added during original swap in.
Cringe if you must at my "weld job" - I almost never weld anymore so needless to say I suck at it.
I went with a Walker SoundFX muffler, so I can still have some rumble, but not overwhelming.
The difference is night and day - WOW!
I tried to film the sound difference, but my phone sucks.
Both version sounded the same on the phone, but in person/real life the difference is - just wow!
The old gasket was blown out on cylinders 1 & 6.
I used copper spray-a-gasket on the new manifold gasket surface.
I have noticed an increase from 13 lbs of vacuum to 22 lbs of vacuum and better throttle response.
Also my engine no longer sounds like a "fart cannon". It runs much quieter now that there is no longer an exhaust leak.
