Howler_GT

Started out with:
1994 Jeep Cherokee Sport.
Purchased off Craigslist for $1500

PO had transfer case replaced, dr. floor repaired, starter replaced, and muffler replaced.


What it looked like when purchased:




First mod was some better engine breathing.
Did some net research and came up with a No-Cost airbox mod.
Can be seen here: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/budget-airbox-mod-iat-relocation-2599/

I wanted some lift. So I fabbed up some front coil spring spacers.
NOTE: If you would like a set made...PM me. Custom lengths available

Raw materials: 3" sch80 pipe and 3 3/4"x3/8" discs


Welded up and painted chassis black:



What we started with:


Installed: with new insulators (recommended)



What we ended up with:



This was fine for the front but looked like I was dragging my "butt"
So we decided to add some 2" lifting blocks to the rear.
BUT later found out this was a bad decision as the rear swaybar endlink was dangerously close to the tire.
But this is what it looked like with the blocks in:



Not bad...but not to my liking.
The rear springs were basically shot. I had originally planned on making an XJ boosted pack using a cut down XJ main leaf as an AAL but opted instead to get a set of 3" lifted leafs from 4WDH http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=7064

I have heard/read nothing but good things about these springs.
SIDE NOTE: If ordering these springs, let it be known beforehand--they DO NOT come with bushings.
I ordered stock replacement bushings thru QuadraTech..reasonably priced (Less then $10 ea.)

While awaitng for the springs to arrive, it was time to think about some "other" things.

Roof lights: Didn't have much money, (Springs drained wallet) So i decided to make a light bar using what I already have. I took the roof racks front-most bow and flattened it. This was alot harder than originally expected.
After removing the rubber strip and reinstalling the flat-bow (I know its an oxymoron) you end up with this...




The lights I used had mounting nuts that fit perfectly into the "T-slot" on the inside of the new lightbar. But I did not want to cut the mounting bolts, so I opted to drill a clearance hole on the bottom of the bar and allow the bolt to protrude. This allows me to add another nut onto it, IF the others loosen up.
After installing the lights onto the bar, I took the original center strip, and cut it to fit between the lights to "button it up".
I have yet to wire them in but the strip can be removed and the wires run thru the channel for a neater looking install.

Decided to remove the lower valance, bumper ends and trim the front end of the flares in preparation for the bigger tires.

What the Sport looks like up to this point:



Time for a little bling.
Did not like the "blah" factory plastic door thresholds (sills)

Searching everywhere, I found nothing I liked. All that was offered was stupid plastic covers. How "mall-rig"ish. I wanted something tougher.

I took 3"x1/8" strips of polished aluminum diamon-plate, bent the leading edge down to achieve an OEM look. I carefully measured, drilled and countersunk for the new stainless steel hardware...no lame double-sided tape here.

OEM:


Removed:


NEW:


Even had enough to make some rears:


New leafs have arrived:
Do NOT have pics of the install.
What a PITA to install. At least the driver's side was.
Front mounting bolt froze to the inner sleeve of bushing. Luckily it was completely out of the hidden caged nut, so it was a matter of cutting the head off and weaselling the leaf out.

The rusted Class 2 hitch had to go. It was in the way. What a fiasco. Rear bumper ends left this world in the process...no biggie there. Now it matches the front.

I ws planning on using the rear bolts to replace the fronts and get fresh hardware (9/16x4 SAE Grade 8) for the rear.
Having a come-along and a length of chain was big plus as the rear axle did move from the arcing action of the floorjack.
I used the TC cross-member as an anchoring point and looped the chain around rthe brake drum. The little bit of force needed to move the axle forward onto the alignment bolt was more than I could muster, since I was rolling around on the ground for awhile.

Since these leaf packs are heavier than the originals, I was unable to reuse the stock U-bolts. Good thing I still have the ones from the 2" blocks.

Everything for the leaf spring install went in. Looks sweet, a little HIGHer than I was expecting...but sweet none the less.

Shock time. I didn't feel like paying thru the nose for longer shocks. So after MORE internet research, I found:

FRONT: Monroe Sensa-Trac for a 97 ZJ w/ UpCounrty package will be 3" longer than the stock XJ shocks and are a direct bolt-in.

REAR: Monroe Sensa-Trac for 92 MJ (Commanche P/U) are also 3" longer than XJ's but require the barpin to be transferred over...no biggie.

Prepared for the rear shocks upper mounting bolts to snap...they do. 3 of 4 of mine left this world. I removed the carpeting from the rear cargo area.
Removing the shocks you will find a small 1/4" hole in the center recessed area. I drilled thru the floor. Then went topside and used the hole I just drilled as a locator, I used a step-drill and made 2 holes (1) in front, (1) in back of this hole. Had to use the sides of step-drill to make an opening big enough to insert a 15mm deepwell socket.
Hammer the socket onto the welded nuts and muscle them off. I had trouble with one, so had to chisel it off.

3/8x2 1/2 full threaded bolt w/ 5/16" washer was pushed DOWN thru mounting holes. 3/8 nut w/ 5/16 washer was used underside and the living daylights were/was tightened out of them. The new "mounting studs" MAY need to be pushed apart depending on the measurements of your barpins. Another 5/16" washer, shock itself, 5/16" washer and the final 3/8" nut round out the installation of the top-end. Bottom-end---just slides onto stud and fastened using the oem hardware.

Went to turn Lil Red around only to find the slip yoke is binding up. Time to do that temporary TC drop. I had made (8) 2"x2"x3/8" spacers at work to give me a 3/4" tc drop.
IF your TC crossmember has a bolt and STUD, the stud can be removed by threading it back out. The threads in the unibody are the same as the bolt. M10x1.50

I picked up two packs from AZ of Dorman #780-550 M10x1.50 x 50mm full threaded bolts. They come as a 2pk. So two packs will be needed.

Howler_GT

Everything back together. Tools collected and Lil Red spun around. It was time to look at the front-end AGAIN. Had to install the front shocks...way overdue. And I installed one MORE stock coil spring insulator to gain 3/4" more in front to even out the high rear. Until such time as they rears settle in/down.

What I have NOW:









Planning on getting a SYE.
Then wheels and tires. I don't like these stock steelies. And these Remington tires have got to go.

I am PLANNING/SEROUSLY THINKIN ABOUT either white wagon wheels or chrome ones. But definately am getting a set of Firestome Destination A/T's 31x9.5/ 15's
Hmmmm may have to do more trimming

Belto

why need for SYE with only 2"?

Howler_GT

Mainly because it is no longer a 2"BB.

I could totally destroy the drivetrain until those rear springs settle down...if they settle.

What I thought was going to be a 3" lift in the rear "looks" more like a 4-5"

Belto

ohh okok so you might wanna changer your sign,, to a 4" lift lol.. so your xj is higher than mine then,, bc when you said SYE I thought DAMN now I need that too.. lol

XJ Stryker

Nice build I love the door steps. I will have to steal your idea and put it on mine.

okcjeeper

Yeah I like that diamond plate idea as well..I may have to steal it as well... The idea that is..

Howler_GT

As of Sept 6, 2008:

Got my REAR wheels and tires installed.
Went with 31x10.50 Firestone Destination A/T's on 15x8 White Wagon Wheels w/3.75 BS.
This combo puts the tread just inside the flare.





I had two thoughts about these bigguns
1. They are going to be as stiff as the smaller stock sized ones on our 91 Laredo.
-OR-
2. These are gonna bounce me all over the place.

But niether happened. In fact, I was pleasantly surprised with the smooth, firm ride. Since the stock drive tire was BALD, I have nothing to compare the traction against. Although, I did happen to LAUNCH-- ONCE. Only to be reminded of my need for a SYE.
(Get on gas/launch/SHAKESHAKESHAKE/quickly get OFF gas)

I MAY have to opt for the 4"BS for the fronts, just to make them a tad bit "more legal" in PA. State inspection is next month for our Lil Red.

Since I already had 3/4" TC drop I figured an extra 1/4" would help a tad w/o any complications. While I was at work today I grabbed some 1" CR sq. stock and lobbed myself off two 6" long pieces.
Came home and drilled (2) 7/16" holes 4 9/16" apart (on center).
Despite the rainy conditions, I stuck it out and put my new(er) TC drop in.

Right now I am towelling off and will try it out in a few... seems I forgot to get anything substantial to eat today. And my stomach is notifying me of this oversight. (Quite loudly, I may add)


While installing the rear leaf springs, I did notice some disturbing "swiss cheese" that was once my rear floor.

Where: Passenger's far corner
Along Passenger's rear wheelwell.
Above both front leaf spring mounts.

Time to get the welder out and as they say in Monster Garage...Weld Braille.

So far I have removed everything in the rear cargo area. This includes the rear seat,interior panels and carpeting. Lest we forget, the NOW mini-spare bolted to the driver's side.
The rearmost rust has been chopped out and a new piece of sheet metal has been welded in and plug welded to the unibody structure.

Coming up next time:
MORE adventures in welding-land
Front wheels and tires.
ZJ TRE upgrade (?)
Steering box adjustment.

Howler_GT

Adventures in welding-land that is.

Well I decided it was time to at the very least, finish ONE side of the rear cargo area.

The spots affected on passenger's side by mother nature:

Back: all the way in the far corner from hatch to edge of wheelwell
Side: Along side the wheelwell to the unibody structure (Approx 4" wide X 12 long)
Far front: As far front as you can get in the cargo area. Under the rear seat. Above the front leaf spring mount.
Shocks: Above the rear shock mounts, holes from ME removing the welded nuts for the shocks. MINOR repair.

I had already welded up and painted the BACK protion. Just need to seal it up. But just running a few coats of undercoating would not suffice here. Really needed to seal it up GOOD. Thats where an old quart can of roofing cement came in handy. This stuff is very much like undercoating but WAY thicker.
Tools required:
Stiff 1" wide putty knife.
Laquer thinner
RAGS.

Covering all the weld seams and a few spots where weld would not work or "take". It did not take long to make this look pretty.

The SIDE went pairly easy AFTER removing all the factory seam sealer with a wire cup on my angle grinder. Paint, then seal.

POP RIVETED the patch panels over the shock bolt holes. Why not weld? I thought ahead on this: makes replacement easier for next time.
Did however, paint and seal.

FRONT was by far the worst. The factory seam sealer was THICK and the metal was THIN.
After almost an hour of hammer and screwdriver, followed by more hammering, and finishing up with some well chosen expletives, the area was ready to get patched.

Since there were so many complex curves and shapes to take into consideration, ONE piece was out of the question. In all 8 different pieces, all of varying shapes and sized were needed to close up this gaping hole.

I know...useless without pics. But what good is it to take pictures of my feet?
That is all I saw when I looked down anyway.
I will however try to take some pics when we tackle the driver's side, which oddly enough is exactly the same as the passenger's side with the exception of the gas-tank filler.

Howler_GT

This is what everybody has been waiting for....

Its picture-time.

Got the front rims delivered yesterday and abruptly mounted the new front tires.
Did some MINOR trimming. Mostly rearmost edge of the front flare and a little use of a BFH on the protruding metal...nothing to severe.

Right now, we don't have center caps BUT.... I do have a sweet idea that will tie the old with the new...pic of THAT will be here shortly.

But w/o further delay.....
THE PICS:







Wash-job via Mother Nature

Full turn left and right...no rub ANYWHERE.
Only drawback:
Despite the identical rims as the rear and the same backspacing... the front tires protrude out past the flares. Big deal here in PA for state inspection as no amout of tire may stick out past bodywork (flares included) State inspection due next month.

2 options here:

Option #1 Get wider flares (All around and make rears look like they are sucked in.

Option #2 Order another pair of rims with a 4.75 backspacing instead of the 3.75 that is currently on now...Deal w/ any rubbing.

Personally, leaning more towards Option #2 as these rims are rather cheap. Plus, the idea I have for center caps require holes being drilled for mounting screws. If I EFF them up....I have spares.

Whatcha all think so far????

kmanxj5050

looks sweet man!!!! where did you get the rims? how much?

BlueXJ

Looks good you may have to do what TrueBlue did and change rims for inspection then change back.

Howler_GT

I got away from having two sets of tires a long time ago. Run ONE set, and thats it.
I would like this thing to be legal. IF I do the swap tires, there are at least two municipalities whose cops will surely pull me over... That gets old real quick.

First things, I need to correct the track of the front axle. Since I am just shy of 3", the axle has shifted quite noticably to one side. I have yet to measure this shift, but I can definately see there is a difference.

I could go out and spend more money. But I do not have over $160 for an adjustable TB. And those that are out there have been designed with 4-6" lifts.
Mine being a 3" would require me to alter it to fit or deal with the exact opposite problem. And besides, I do not feel like hacking up new $160 item.

I started thinking about modifying a stock track bar to make it adjustable, but currently, everyone says the tubing is thin. We will find out as soon as I tear into the J/Y unit I picked up to "experiment" on.

Finished up the rust repair in the cargo area and put Lil Red back together again.

The carnage: On both sides.





Making patches:



All patches got a liberal coating of roofing cement for the underside, a coat of paint and some seam seasler for the inside.

Grabbed a few pieces today, besides a trackbar.
Picked up a LUND Bugshield. Someone removed it from the XJ, took the brackets but forgot the shield. For $3...I'll make it fit.



Yeeowww...Looks like its time to relocate that vacuum canister.

Found a set of NON-breakaway manual remote mirrors, to replace these lousy "early" breakaways that breakaway and STAY away. Anyone who has these, knows what I am talking about. Once they breakaway, the plastic retainers breaK ALSO. Allowing the mirror to droop or in some cases, fall off.

00XJsport

looks good man

the white wheels look nice...how do you like those firestones?

Howler_GT

These Firestones are a world of difference from those nasty Remingtons that I bought it with.
My little 4.0L w/160,000mi still has enough snot to spin them big doghnuts.

I chose the A/T's over the M/T's because of the reviews on TireRack.com
The A/T's score much better overall and alot less road noise, as this will basically be a DD.