00XJsport

Gotcha, yeah I was looking into either the destination a/t or the kumho a/t because mines a daily driver as well...

but i found a nice set of used m/ts that i couldnt turn down...picked up 30x9.5 bfg radial mud terrains with around 3-4 thousand miles on them for 275 bucks...

Howler_GT

I just love these Destination A/T's. Real tough tire. Agressive looking tread w/o "lug-rumble"
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We now return to the build....already in progress.

Been having a few steering problems.
With the 3" lift in the front, Lil Red is now pigeon-toed (toed-in) And the front axle does not track properly. Big surprise? Not here.

First: Need to get axle to track correctly.
2 choices--
Choice #A Redrill lower trackbar bolt.
Choice #B Adjustable trackbar

Choice #A- I do not like this idea as it requires welding the original hole shut. And since I have a lousy hobby mig (at home) I believe the plug weld will be pretty crappy. Besides, if new hole located incorrectly...what good is it.

Choice #B- Forking out $160 for an adjustable trackbar that was designed for a lift range of 4-6 1/2" would not work. As soon as I get the unit delivered, I have to hack away at it to get it to work right...NOT a good idea

I CHOSE:
Choice #C Modify the OEM/stock trackbar so it is adjustable. Now that sounds more like it. I did some searching on the net and I found a stainless steel rod-end that closesly resembles the original axle-end mount of the trackbar. 2 minor differences. first center hole is 1/2 not 12mm and the width 1/4" narrower. Both of which can be dealt with.

PIC of rod-end:



Ran to J/Y and grabbed a nice looking stock unit ($8).

Despite what everyone said on this forum about the tubing being to thin to do anything with:



Looks solid to me.

Hacksaw did a rather lousy job of cutting, so I decided since the threads for the rod-end are 5/8 FINE that it would be better to take the bar into work.
Cleaned up the hack-job on our horizontal milling machine to get a flat surface that the jam nut would like. Then finding center, I drilled 1 3/4" deep and ran the TiN coated cobalt 5/8 tap in.

Lousy pic of the end product:



Threaded the stainless steel jam nut onto the rod-end and BAM!!!



ADJUSTABLE (STOCK) TRACKBAR.

Comparison of OEM stock bar (top) and Howler's Adjustable stock trackbar (bottom)



Alterations to fit: Drilled mounting hole out to 1/2". Took original flagged-nut and pressed threaded portion out to retain the "flag". Welded a 1/2" nut to it.
As for the width, (2) 1/2" Gr. 8 washers slid up along both sides of new rod-end make for a perfect fit. I replaced the mounting bolt with a 1/2"x3" Gr 8 bolt.

Cleaned up all the grease. Anti-siezed all threads. Made tracking adjustment and altered the trtackbar length accordingly. Bolted everything together and put tools away.

Took Lil Red for a spin. Steering wheel is back to its pre-lift position when travelling straight. No more uncontrollable wheel when hitting bumps.

Lost all natural/ambient light to snap any pics of unit installed.
If its any consolation....Ya can't see it anyway.

Rundown:
J/Y trackbar..............$8.00
Rod-end..................$18.00
Use of machine shop--FREE
Labor-----------------FREE
Total Cost...............$26.00

Compared to $160+ for Aftermarket


Next step: Alignment

bmrrwolfe

i really like that idea, i may have to copy it!
i just gotta find a nice J/Y trackbar around here.

Howler_GT

After getting front axle to track (or as close as I'll ever get it)
My attention turned to the toe-in.

When lifting an XJ, the toe-in is increased due to the steering geometry.
Broke down in very simple terms: The higher the body:: the more the front of the tires point inward.
A.K.A. Pigeon-toed

Upon measuring, I had found there was almost 13/16" difference from front to back.
I loosened up the TREs and made a minor adjustment.
Several sites I have visited state to make it so there is NO difference.
BUT from what I know about chassis-tech, there needs to be SOME difference.
I adjusted mine so there is roughly 1/8"-3/16" difference.
Took it for a quick spin. What a difference. No longer feels like the throttle is fighting the tires (rolls smoother and longer).
No longer do I lose steeriung control when faced with bumpy road surfaces.

While I was under there, I gave all the grease fittings a fresh shot of grease.
Wiping off any excess. I hate when shops don't do that.

Decided NOW was a good time to re-install the front driveshaft. Removed the front driveshaft while awaiting delivery of the mating front rims/tires.

I had a minor mishap while removing the axle-end. U-joint endcap came off, hit ground and immediately threw all the "bearings". This was actually a GOOD thing. As the u-joint was dry and starting to deteriorate.

Pulled out one of the 91 Laredo's DAPO gifts. TWO (NRFB) u-joints, found under rear seat. Sized them up...perfect match.
Popped the ends off the TC end u-joints and found the joints were already replaced. ??? Odd? Yes.
Why go thru the trouble of replacing THOSE joints which are alot harder and forget the simplest joint?
Not going to dwell on it as this was from the DAPO. Thats where the DA in DAPO comes from.

HINT: When installing a front driveshaft, jack up the front end so at least ONE tire is off the ground. This will allow you to spin the yoke and make aligning the joint easier and also make screwing in the retainer bolts a snap.

Decided it was now time to relocate the vacuum canister OUT of the front bumper.
Everytime I see this pick, makes me feel like my fly's open....



But where to go with it?
No room in engine bay...thats for sure.
Don't want to go under floor/along unibody rail (I have seen this..not a good place)

While laying on my back under the front-end, doing the trackbar replacement, I found it. A dead zone. And since I do not have a front skid plate (YET), this seemed like a likely spot.



Does not interfere with ANYTHING. Well one hose thats easily bent slightly to make room.

Hardware/materials needed:
(2) 1/4"x1" stainless steel bolts
(4) 1/4" stainless steel washers
(2) 1/4" stainless steel nuts
(2) 1/4" stainless steel lock washers
(1) 4"x12"x1/4" stainless steel plate
(2) Stainless steel sheet metal screws (#14 IIRC)
2'-3' appropiate sized vacuum line.

Locate position for mounting plate. Two existing holes in radiator support...sweet. Drilled holes. Screwed plate temporarily and positioned canister. Marked and drilled holes. Remounted plate for good this time.
Mounted canister with port facing passenger's side.
Removed the vacuum tube from engine bay. Along side my battery was a "T" in the vac. line. Removed T and ran new line to the canister.

Out of sight...out of mind.

Wait!!! Scratch that. I'm always out of THAT.

Howler_GT

Since there is still daylight left, there is time for one more project.

What to do with those nasty hubs. Hubs? Well, the white wagon wheels do not have center caps.

"Just go and buy some." you'd say.
I don't like them little chrome helmets and I do not like advertising someone elses product especially if Im not getting paid to do so.

Here's what I have to start with:



Ewww. But at least the rims and tires look awesome.

What to do?
Simple, use the stock steel rim caps.

HUH?

Jeep was thoughtful enough to use the same bolt pattern for mounting the cap as the rims bolt pattern.
In other words, I need to make (5) .200" holes on a 4.5" BC.

Just find center between two lug holes and at the right BC.

Use the original hardware as the US Wheel's rims have a recessed ring on the backside...
THIS is what you end up with:



Not sure if I want to keep them silver or paint them white. Also, I ditched the tiny stock lug nuts for some bigguns that hide the little bit of the center opening on the rim that would be seen with the stock lugs.

Otherwise...
I think these fit quite nicely.

kmanxj5050

lookin awesome and the track bar was a great idea and looks done really well


i have that same fly open feeling mine is zippytied to thats angle piece off the fender to the unibody!!! i am goin to have to do this