BT's 1998 Build Thread
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,277
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From: Orlando/Winter Garden
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
Nice idea! I got stuck about 3 times the yesterday only because of my 8.25 scraping ground. I might just do this to mine!
Thread Starter
Member

Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 192
Likes: 17
From: AZ
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Replaced the old crossmember and transfer case skid with the TNT Customs parts. Next step is to install the longarms.
Replaced this . . .

With this . . .
Replaced this . . .

With this . . .
Last edited by Brent T; Mar 24, 2013 at 05:03 PM.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 304
Likes: 0
From: thompson,okanogan,shushwap area in central British columbian
Year: 91 laredo
Model: Cherokee
Engine: HO 4l
the cleaness, the amount of hard work that went into making it clean, the ocd!!! it blew me away readin this!!!
i just wouldn be able to wheel it if it was mine its just that gorgous!!
my friends tell me iv got a beater rig cause its the only one wth pinstriping and mangled panels and it ticks me off cause i wish it was this clean and is by no means a beater.
question the TNT y-link belly pan, what is the difference in ground clearance between the TNT skid and the factory one??
iv been thinking of making something like that (way into the future) with multiple rustys ones that are meant to acomodate a t-case drop, so when you dont drop the t-case it gains ground clearance (1-maximum2")
i just wouldn be able to wheel it if it was mine its just that gorgous!!
my friends tell me iv got a beater rig cause its the only one wth pinstriping and mangled panels and it ticks me off cause i wish it was this clean and is by no means a beater.
question the TNT y-link belly pan, what is the difference in ground clearance between the TNT skid and the factory one??
iv been thinking of making something like that (way into the future) with multiple rustys ones that are meant to acomodate a t-case drop, so when you dont drop the t-case it gains ground clearance (1-maximum2")
Thread Starter
Member

Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 192
Likes: 17
From: AZ
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
the cleaness, the amount of hard work that went into making it clean, the ocd!!! it blew me away readin this!!!
i just wouldn be able to wheel it if it was mine its just that gorgous!!
my friends tell me iv got a beater rig cause its the only one wth pinstriping and mangled panels and it ticks me off cause i wish it was this clean and is by no means a beater.
question the TNT y-link belly pan, what is the difference in ground clearance between the TNT skid and the factory one??
iv been thinking of making something like that (way into the future) with multiple rustys ones that are meant to acomodate a t-case drop, so when you dont drop the t-case it gains ground clearance (1-maximum2")
i just wouldn be able to wheel it if it was mine its just that gorgous!!
my friends tell me iv got a beater rig cause its the only one wth pinstriping and mangled panels and it ticks me off cause i wish it was this clean and is by no means a beater.
question the TNT y-link belly pan, what is the difference in ground clearance between the TNT skid and the factory one??
iv been thinking of making something like that (way into the future) with multiple rustys ones that are meant to acomodate a t-case drop, so when you dont drop the t-case it gains ground clearance (1-maximum2")
As for the skid, I gained nearly an inch of clearance. It hangs 2" below the unibody rails and as you can see, it's totally flat. The old crossmember hung down 2-1/4". The factory TC skid hung down almost another inch lower than the crossmember.
Thread Starter
Member

Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 192
Likes: 17
From: AZ
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
No, I'm already running spacers so I'm at about 4.5" now. I bought a set of 5.5" springs that I'll run with no spacers. Also have shackle relocation brackets I still need to install to level it out and hopefully get a better ride and more articulation offroad. Plan to step up to 17" wheel and 34" tire as well when these wear out. When all is said and done, it should sit about 2" higher with 3+" more belly clearance.
Last edited by Brent T; Mar 26, 2013 at 10:02 AM.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 304
Likes: 0
From: thompson,okanogan,shushwap area in central British columbian
Year: 91 laredo
Model: Cherokee
Engine: HO 4l
wow thats realy cmparable and for the price more worth it to skip the time id need to build the setup i though up, how thick is the metal they used?
Thread Starter
Member

Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 192
Likes: 17
From: AZ
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
http://www.tntcustoms.com/jeep_chero..._bellypan.aspx
Mine is a little different than the one in the link since it has the mounting setup for the longarms and there are a couple extra braces to tie it into the frame.
Thread Starter
Member

Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 192
Likes: 17
From: AZ
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Got a little more work done last night. Also, my frame side UCA bold is seized and I can't get it out for the life of me. Guess I'll get the sawzall out and cut the bolt out. Hopefully the other side goes better.
Took the opportunity to paint everything under the fenderwell black too.
Took the opportunity to paint everything under the fenderwell black too.
Thread Starter
Member

Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 192
Likes: 17
From: AZ
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
It's back in one piece now. Shackle relocation brackets installed, Long Arms installed. Had do get longer brake lines for the front. Still running shocks that are too short. Sits a little too low in back too. Had to do this to get away with the short shocks. Will need to get new shocks front and rear, then I can adjust my shackle angle to get it to sit level again. Getting there . . .


