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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 03:10 PM
  #31  
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From: Finland
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 RENIX
Default wirings for high beam aux

I did wirings for the hellas, used 12gauge wire, relay, 20A fuse and MTA superseal type quick connectors, also brazed all the joints. Took a switch feed from a white 76 wire. Wire kit which came with light set was weak and now if I want to upgrade from 55W, it is easier.



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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 02:11 PM
  #32  
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From: Finland
Year: 1990
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Angry

Everything went wrong today, First I broke the knock sensor when trying to disconnect it. Then I started to grease steering joints with just bought "mini-greaser" messed first tube of vaseline to the floor, also the "minigreaser" is joke, 20€ thrown away, then I messed full glue can to the floor, Biggest mistake was when changing transfer case oil, I cracked the case, there is now half inch long crack starting from drain plug and dripping oil. What can I do? I'm running out of time, my garage is rented to the end of december, still lot to do.
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Old Nov 13, 2011 | 03:07 PM
  #33  
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From: Finland
Year: 1990
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Engine: 4.0 RENIX
Default new direction for the build

Ok. Tc drain is now temporary fixed with locktite power metal epoxy. Next plan is to take Jeep out, pack all the tools and head to my brothers place (180km), my rented garage is getting too small to get all the work done on time and how i like. Plan is to buy mag-welder and weld new floors and box rockers. Everything should be ready for next summer. Also i think i need new 3" coils and leafpacks, control arms and tc repair. Audio, dual battery and oba can wait now.


Last edited by northern; Sep 15, 2012 at 10:59 AM. Reason: pics
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Old Nov 13, 2011 | 03:11 PM
  #34  
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From: Finland
Year: 1990
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Talking

Originally Posted by LeRoy90laredo
Best reason for a visa right there!
Yeah sure they are ...now i have to wait for them
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Old Nov 14, 2011 | 01:10 PM
  #35  
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Year: 1990
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Result of over tightening and quick fix (should last one trip)




I have this kind of setup; somekind of PTO. What is it for, PO assembled it. Kind of useless? and it throws oil
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Old Nov 14, 2011 | 02:57 PM
  #36  
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Year: 1996
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Engine: 4.0 HO
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Wow that's horrible about the crack. I'm not completely sure but I think the only way to fix a cracked casing would be to replace it.... meaning you need to get another TC.
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Old Nov 14, 2011 | 03:10 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Geo Fry
Wow that's horrible about the crack. I'm not completely sure but I think the only way to fix a cracked casing would be to replace it.... meaning you need to get another TC.
Yeah, its a start for a bigger crack. Im lookin for new tc unit or parts, they are not so easily/cheaply available here. That epoxy is temporary fix to move jeep to bigger garage.
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 01:46 PM
  #38  
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Default posing



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Old May 20, 2012 | 02:18 PM
  #39  
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From: Finland
Year: 1990
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Hello All,

I bought welder and started getting ALL rust out.

first was box rockers from 2"x4" and 2"x2" tubes welded together. Also bought winch and I will make front and rear bumpers after rust repairs.

This is ESAB Caddy200i inverter MIG/MAG, now using 25%CO2 mixed argon. Works like adream and qset really suits bodyrepair jobs.


Passenger side done, ill add gussetts still.


Took front doors off, I used long 1/2" T40 bit, penetration oil, knocked with hammer but still broke couple off driver side bolts, came off tought.



Winch


My winter rims sandblasted and painted with epoxy primer and polyurethane coat, same painting system will be used in body.
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Old Jun 25, 2012 | 12:36 PM
  #40  
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Some more progress, this is taking ages, I can only work couple weekends on month. I cutted rear arcs, quarters and rear floorpan out, just started to weld it back together, I am using 3mm, 1,5mm and 0,75mm sheetmetal on these.





Any comments or suggestions?
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Old Jun 25, 2012 | 12:51 PM
  #41  
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How can I edit topic title? I want to add my projects new name there "KOLA CRUISER"
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 01:12 PM
  #42  
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Smile Its coming up nice!







Fresh paint for rear shocks:
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Old Jul 12, 2012 | 02:50 AM
  #43  
xpedition xj-eh!'s Avatar
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Year: 1997 & 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Nice work! I like where you're project is going.

I feel like we are in the same boat, my project is taking forever and I'm doing some of the same things (rockers, fenders, rust etc).

Keep it up!

Here's mine in a similar state:
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Old Jul 12, 2012 | 10:39 AM
  #44  
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Haha, looks familiar, i see you did higher rockers that will need door cutting, it is sure neater solution because it dont leave that useless space between original sil and rec.pipe. I just wanted to save time from door modification. My original plan for this rust repair is extended year already.

I am Just looking cheap snorkels from ebay. Just wondering if they are useless ****. Price difference between cheap and arb:s safari is quite big.
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Old Jul 12, 2012 | 08:57 PM
  #45  
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From: Calgary Alberta Canada
Year: 1997 & 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Default

I'm also on a mission to get rid of all my rust. That's why I had to go higher on the rockers. I'm not cutting my doors though. I'm going to add sliders under the rockers that you see in the picture.

Originally Posted by northern
I am Just looking cheap snorkels from ebay. Just wondering if they are useless ****. Price difference between cheap and arb:s safari is quite big.
Check out this intake setup: http://www.ericsxj.com/intake/intake.htm

Anyway, I'm watching you're build because were both doing a lot of the same things at the same time! I also bought a welder just for this purpose. You did a much neater job of welding the sheet metal under the rear quarter panels then I did. I had to grind a lot of it down and fill in a couple burn holes
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