Few good things about my ZJ is I can swap the rear discs, the front carrier split is 3.73/3.55 for the D30 so I can snag the one from the ZJ if I regear. The tie rod I can swap along with drag link(lifetime warranty from autozone). The seats can be modified to fit(fronts are basically drop in) then you get the 60/40 split. There are a few other things as well but those are the 3 that are more interesting to me.

 

 

 

 

You can still use your radios without the programming cable. Just type in your frequencies manually. It's a pain in the butt if you have security settings set up or to set repeater offsets but usually for point to point communication there isn't.

 

How do you like the RC diff cover? Did it bolt on without hassle?

 

I like it, I like the way it looks. It stands out as a nicely painted item on my beaten up axle, and it doesn't seem to interfere with anything. install was pretty easy, hardest part was getting one of the bolts in, I had to go in and very carefully pull some of the gasket maker out that was partially blocking one of the holes for the bolt.

 

I know that the local club has a group of frequencies they are going to pass on my way to program into it once I get my cable. that way I am ready to communicate with them on the trail.

 

Where are you getting the cage from? I'm interested in its specs. Mainly because I've never seen a bolt in cage that really protects you in a rollover.

 

This is the only one I know of:

http://www.rockhard4x4.com/product_p/rh-1012-2.htm

But its probably the one I'll spend my money on, since it ticks all the boxes for me.

 

I seriously hope that you are just buying this cage for looks and not to save your life in a rollover. I realize its your money and your call. But to me if I'm doing wheeling that requires a cage then it needs to be done right, not a cage that might actually become a danger in a rollover incident.


Maybe look around and see if someone sells a cage that is already precut and notched. That way all you are doing is welding. And in the end you get a cage that will protect you if its needed.

 

What is the difference between this cage and a welded cage that makes it less safe?

 

Your trusting that the bolts are going to hold together when stressed. The A pillars don't even run to the floor. They use flat plate from dash level to the floor.


Another question I have with the kit is what structural pieces are they tying the legs into? It appears that the kit just bolts to the floor pan. I've held floor pans in my hands and don't feel as if they would hold against the weight of the vehicle pushing on them. The last question on that kit that I would have is the size and thickness of tubing used. I couldn't find it on the website. But I'd want at least 1 3/4 with a .120 wall tubing and would prefer DOM tubing.


Just some thoughts of mine when looking at that kit.

 

 

hmmm...I've heard if you have a cracked exhaust manifold or bad intake/exhaust gasket it can cause a vacuum leak and the engine will race. the hole further down in your exhaust pipe will definitely throw off the O2 sensor reading, or do the older cherokees only have 1 O2? Sounds like at least the IAC could use cleaning or replacing. I've been troubleshooting what I think is a TPS issue. The troubleshooting steps should be similar to mine I'd think:

Also between the ground pin and the battery the resistance should be low. Mine is/was ~50 ohms so I've been going through and freshening all my grounds and using Ox-Gard on them.

Also wouldn't hurt to refresh all grounds. cruiser54 has a good site for the first gen XJ's. Does the shop that did the swap have any sort of warranty for their work. Maybe they should try troubleshooting a bit of it. It's surprising they gave you all the old sensors...but I suppose if the tested them as working...