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Ok here's a question. Since I have adjustable upper and lower control arms can I just push the front end forward say like a half inch? It seems like I need that to happen. It looks like I have plenty of clearance from steering etc. It will help with the coils up front not hitting bump stops and the stock driveshaft looks like it's closer on the slip joint than when it was stock so I need the extra play.
Great build thread.. With the rear out you won't be able to check where your at with the wheelbase measurement... Factory wheelbase is 101.4...But to directly answer your question yes you can bump it out then spin the UCAs for your pinion angle..Just remember there's usually a trade-off between increased pinion angle and decreased castor.. It's a juggling act between the two...And lastly, without control arm drop brackets keeping the angles in check, the sweep of your arms will be more noticeable{ the axle will move forward as it comes up through it's range of motion}...
Great build thread.. With the rear out you won't be able to check where your at with the wheelbase measurement... Factory wheelbase is 101.4...But to directly answer your question yes you can bump it out then spin the UCAs for your pinion angle..Just remember there's usually a trade-off between increased pinion angle and decreased castor.. It's a juggling act between the two...And lastly, without control arm drop brackets keeping the angles in check, the sweep of your arms will be more noticeable{ the axle will move forward as it comes up through it's range of motion}...
ok good. I'm not talking too much just a half inch or so. With long arm does it swing out less or the same? I'm thinking I'll go that way eventually. Probably link the rear too. But for now I just want to drive it. It's been a year.
Ok I'm looking for some answers is this normal to have these cut outs where the fuel filler hose goes through the frame? If so why are they there? I'm thinking of welding in some sheet metal to cover them up so less Crap gets into the frame.
Rear end is done. Re gear and locker installed.
Also the way the casting hangs down on the rearend it seems it will hang up on stuff. I'm going to fab and install a 1/4" skid plate welded to it.
Your build looks amazing and you've done a very good job welding stiffners to the sheet metal frame.
My thoughts. Please don't run a hack n tap on a very nice build like this please do a real slip yoke eliminator.
No you don't t need a specialty alignment shop to touch it. By looking through your build youl likely do a much better job yourself.
Definitely run some sfr brackets to locate your front axle. Will improve your ride alot. Or you may be able to fab a sfr similar setup yourself to save alittle money and make it your own.
Keep it up, love seeing the progress your making.
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Here's my 8.25 Cut and plated. The lip seems to be this axles real only draw back. You read or seen where anyways even broke one of these?
[QUOTE=Utah XJ;3629020]Ok here's a question. Since I have adjustable upper and lower control arms can I just push the front end forward say like a half inch? It seems like I need that to happen. It looks like I have plenty of clearance from steering etc. It will help with the coils up front not hitting bump stops and the stock driveshaft looks like it's closer on the slip joint than when it was stock so I need the
Your lower control arms will be the ones to let out to move your axle forward, I'm at 4.5" still on factory uppers, it's the lowers that get the tires out of the rear of well. I think I set my RE at 16.5" for my lift, didn't have to trim a thing. By the way, that is a beautiful jeep! Good job, you've took it to the max. Happy jeeping!
Lengthing lowers will work but the uppers need adjustment to set castor. So technically both need adjustment.
a radius arm would work to lengthn only lowers to increase wheel base
Just finishing up the cut and fold the last guy did on this thing. It was bad. He didn't know what he was doing and after cutting out way too much stuff the answer was stuff a bunch of silicone in it to try and stop the rear fenders from filling up with water. They are going to be removable but sealed with caulking. There was 1 inch holes in each inter fender where the patches are.
I welded the patch piece you see under my home made armor 3.5 inches back and welded the original sheet metal closed then put Nut serts to hold them in.
Ok here's a question. Since I have adjustable upper and lower control arms can I just push the front end forward say like a half inch? It seems like I need that to happen. It looks like I have plenty of clearance from steering etc. It will help with the coils up front not hitting bump stops and the stock driveshaft looks like it's closer on the slip joint than when it was stock so I need the
Your lower control arms will be the ones to let out to move your axle forward, I'm at 4.5" still on factory uppers, it's the lowers that get the tires out of the rear of well. I think I set my RE at 16.5" for my lift, didn't have to trim a thing. By the way, that is a beautiful jeep! Good job, you've took it to the max. Happy jeeping!
yeah my issue isn't really tire clearance. I ran it through and bumped it out. I can even run 35's if I want in the future. I just don't like the way the coils sit and want to push the front end forward to ease my own **** mind. 😅😅😅
yeah my issue isn't really tire clearance. I ran it through and bumped it out. I can even run 35's if I want in the future. I just don't like the way the coils sit and want to push the front end forward to ease my own **** mind. 😅😅😅
check out the LCA relocation brackets, for real. I've read quite a bit about them, improving your angles, better ride, better flex. Unless you are going to a long arm set up, then you are going to the next level, and I say jeep on.
