View Poll Results: Build before or after i start wheeling?
Build now
35
66.04%
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89 Cherokee. The under-dog
01-04-2010, 12:31 PM
#1
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6, 4.ol
89 Cherokee. The under-dog
So, I have a 89 Cherokee 4door 4x4. It has a Peugeot BA-10/5 5-speed manual, a vacuum actuated d30 front axle, a d35 rear, and a I6. But for the good news! It has 200k and i got it for 700 bucks! So now for some opinions. I understand how bad the rear axle, the vacuum actuation, and most of all the tranny is to break ( i have the np231 t-case, so not to worried about that). I noticed that my four wheel drive was not working when it started snowing this last week, and decided to take it to the brothers house and see what was up. Turned out one of the vacuum lines was not even hooked up. I currently have plans for a ford 8.8 rear axle with a posy, a ax-15, eventually a front axle, and a 4.5 inch long arm kit. My question, should i wheel it till parts begin to break then start replacing stuff, or should i replace everything now before i start wheeling it and save the headache of breaking parts on the trail? Ill post pics later today, anyone know some real flexy lifts? no bigger then 4.5 please! Any help is appreciated.
Last edited by SuperGlue; 03-14-2012 at 01:37 PM.
01-05-2010, 01:21 PM
#2
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0H.O. I6
Honestly many of the things you just mentiond doing are already done by the factory in other XJ's and would probably be had cheaper by buying an XJ with the HO engine ax15 trans and Chrysler 8.25. I picked up a parts 94 XJ with the HO, AW4 automatic, np 231 and Chrysler 8.25 for only $300 from a guy who was ready to scrap it...
I would start saving the money you are about to put in your current XJ and then buy a Cherokee that already has most of what you want as far as drivetrain/powertrain goes and use the XJ you have now for spare parts. While you are saving you could wheel the **** out of the $700 one you already have.
I just couldn't justify spending the time and money to convert so many things that a ton of XJ's came with and that can be had for not a whole lot more $$$$ just my opinion.
If you just want to have a project and tear it down completely and build it up the way you want then go for it!
I would start saving the money you are about to put in your current XJ and then buy a Cherokee that already has most of what you want as far as drivetrain/powertrain goes and use the XJ you have now for spare parts. While you are saving you could wheel the **** out of the $700 one you already have.
I just couldn't justify spending the time and money to convert so many things that a ton of XJ's came with and that can be had for not a whole lot more $$$$ just my opinion.
If you just want to have a project and tear it down completely and build it up the way you want then go for it!
06-26-2010, 02:31 PM
#3
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6, 4.ol
So I just got my Rustys 3 Inch lift yesterday and am currently in the process of getting the lower control arms BACK on. I have already removed the old coils and replaced them. The drivers side went on like a breeze, but the passenger side is giving me issues. Like others that I have read about, you need to push the axle forward to line it up. I have yet to find someone that goes into detail on how they themselves did it so any tips would be great, I am weary of pushing on it when its on jackstands, soo...
06-26-2010, 09:09 PM
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Year: 1989
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0
Cant wait to see the lift done. I am glad I have a HO, AX15, and an 8,25 with 160K for 750. But anyway the old renixs were beasts and I believe they had a better casting with more nickel in it. Personally the HO is nice but the Renix is more robust.
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06-26-2010, 09:36 PM
#9
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6, 4.ol
I have a very interesting paint job that is coming up. Hopefully next month or so, I am wanting to keep it a surpris till the unveiling, but I will give you a hint, its a replica with some differences from an old Speilburg movie... =D
06-26-2010, 10:10 PM
#10
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 inline 6
Coil Springs
I just replaced my RC 4.5 with a rusty's 4.5. I used two floor jacks when replacing the coils since the axle was completely disconnected. One thing that helped was the adjustable upper and lower control arms. I was able to push the axle forward about 1/2 inch more than the fixed arm from RC which allowed for the coil springs to remain straight once everything was bolted back up and also helped with clearing my 33x12.50x15 Cepek's. One thing I noticed on my rig was where the anti sway bar was connected to the axle, the little "C" bracket that connected the two bars was rubbing against my coils because of a bent bolt. I bored a bigger hole and added a grade 8 bolt that straightened it out and will be much stronger.
06-26-2010, 11:01 PM
#11
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'd go for a combo of the 2. Dont wanna get stuck on the trail but dont wanna wait to have to enjoy. Know your limits and wheel it. That will also help prioritise your modifactions
06-27-2010, 12:13 AM
#12
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6, 4.ol
Would anyone be kind enough to take a picture of the e clip where the z drop bracket goes. It says to trace the rubber lines to the frame and locate the clip but i cant find it.... Any help would be great.!@
06-27-2010, 12:42 PM
#13
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6, 4.ol
Got the drop bracket done, and the u bolts, now attempting the leaf spring bolts, talk about a pain in the ***, any pointers?
06-27-2010, 02:27 PM
#14
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6, 4.ol
Got the rear shackle bolts off the leafs without any real problems, but the fronts are tighter then a thanksgiving ****. I broke one socket on them and don't feel like breaking the bolts. I have been soaking them in wd-40 for 3 days, everything else went in with no problems so I feel overdue for a broken bolt...
06-27-2010, 03:29 PM
#15
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6, 4.ol
Sprayed it all down with PB blaster and then tapped it with a braze hammer. Still wont break loose and I broke another socket...