When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I don't have any history on it, but yes, it appears as if it is NOS which is why I purchased it. All the functions work, the movement works smoothly and the volume potentiometer isn't pitted or scratchy.
Wonderful find. When I was looking for a replacement radio I wanted to have an AUX in capability, but didn't want one of those silly/ridiculous aftermarket units that have digits dancing all over the screen and flashing lights and whatnot. I ended up settling on a Jenson Heavy Duty Tractor-type radio because it was fairly close to the square-ish buttons and plain face I was looking for. Granted, it's amber instead of green, but I'm generally pretty happy with it.
Wonderful find. When I was looking for a replacement radio I wanted to have an AUX in capability, but didn't want one of those silly/ridiculous aftermarket units that have digits dancing all over the screen and flashing lights and whatnot. I ended up settling on a Jenson Heavy Duty Tractor-type radio because it was fairly close to the square-ish buttons and plain face I was looking for. Granted, it's amber instead of green, but I'm generally pretty happy with it.
I had one similar to that in a 379 Peterbilt years ago. Great radios, and you get the weather stations.
I've been searching for an AMC radio that came in Cherokees for a while. Granted, some had mounting brackets for other AMC/Renault vehicles. After playing it in the garage, I'm going to have to add a 4Ω resister to each speaker. The radio produces no more than 13 watts at 8Ω, and with the 4Ω Pioneer speakers, I get to full volume at about half of the full turn of the volume ****. For one, I don't want to over-task the little transistors that produce the sound. And secondly, it's going to be a pain in the rear trying to set the volume in a bumpy Jeep while driving - one little bump of the volume and its too loud or too soft.
The black, straight-blade plug should be a single wire that originates at a fusible link near the male/female plugs on the left side, on top of the wheel well behind the battery. It is 12V positive- the light itself grounds through the hood. I installed a new bond wire between where the light attaches to the hood and the body so I have a better negative for the light. I had considered LED lamps once upon a time; however, due to it's age --obviously visible by the 80s cream-colored body-- I decided to stay with incandescent bulbs on everything to keep with the vintage-age look.
AJ,
So I went through and did the same thing with my light that you did, got it all cleaned up and working again. Then I went to look for the damn plug where you said it was and I simply cannot find it. You think I could bother you to take a picture of where you found it? I guess it's possible it was removed, but I'm simply not seeing any loose plugs
Matt, here are a few photos of what you are looking for. The black plug is at the end of a red wire that emerges from the end of a black wire loom near a few GM-style Weather Pack connectors at the rear passenger corner of the batter. The wire loom appears to run around the passenger side of the battery towards the radiator. The factory fusible links also enter the same wire loom. The wire loom is the violet arrows, and the red wire for the hood light is the lime arrows.
Btw, I had some new rubber runners custom made for the frame rails on the roof. Let me know if you want some. I sell them on eBay for $50/shipped, but I'll sell any CherokeeForum members some for $30/shipped!
Matt, I would like to get a pair from you. While I didn't stay with the factory roof cross bars, I kept the two rails for my Yakima bars and mounts. Send me a PM sometime if you still have a set.
Matt, here are a few photos of what you are looking for. The black plug is at the end of a red wire that emerges from the end of a black wire loom near a few GM-style Weather Pack connectors at the rear passenger corner of the batter. The wire loom appears to run around the passenger side of the battery towards the radiator. The factory fusible links also enter the same wire loom. The wire loom is the violet arrows, and the red wire for the hood light is the lime arrows.
You are the freaking man. Now that I know what I'm looking for, I'm sure I'll be able to find it.
Originally Posted by ajpulley
Matt, I would like to get a pair from you. While I didn't stay with the factory roof cross bars, I kept the two rails for my Yakima bars and mounts. Send me a PM sometime if you still have a set.
I still have some sets, but just to clarify; you know these are sized for the four smaller bars that are in the center between the two larger outer rails, right?
Finished the floors, sealed the seams and rubber coated.
Now, trimming the carpet kit begins.
Looking great! That's new carpet, right?
Originally Posted by ajpulley
Matt, I would like to get a pair from you. While I didn't stay with the factory roof cross bars, I kept the two rails for my Yakima bars and mounts. Send me a PM sometime if you still have a set.
Also, just wanted to follow up, you still need these? I still have some sets, but I wanted to clarify; you know these are sized for the four smaller bars that are in the center between the two larger outer rails, right?
Yes. Ordered ACC carpet. I was shocked at the gold color until I pulled up the center console and realized gold WAS the factory color! Amazing what years of dirt, washing, dirt, washing, more dirt, more washing will do to the color. The back trimming wasn't bad at all. I'm not looking forward to the front section. Thank God I saved the middle piece that the console sat on as I cut out everything around it. At least I can get that part right.
ACC takes a square and forms it. It's up the the customer to trim to fit unfortunautely.
Originally Posted by MayerMR
Also, just wanted to follow up, you still need these? I still have some sets, but I wanted to clarify; you know these are sized for the four smaller bars that are in the center between the two larger outer rails, right?
I haven't decided completely, but I'm leaning towards not re-using the center bars. I have Yakima mounts for those early-style luggage rails for my rack I'm gong to remount. It used to be a PITA to wash between them. If they were for the outers, I'd grab a set from you instantly.
Finished putting one side back together. For 33 years old, it's better than it was. Amazing what the humid air can do... those rotors are brand new and haven't been used since I installed them. I'm glad I gave the non-contact surfaces a coat of paint.
Also moved the location of the license plate since the spare tire will partially block it in it's original location. The license plate light is the closest I could find to the one used with factory spare tire carriers. The rivets are the same Jeep parts.
I finished the extra electrical I wanted so I could put the drive’s side trim back in. In the rear, I installed two relays to operate a reverse light- one runs off the factory reverse circuit and the other off a dash switch. I brought back a clean circuit for the light and a 12v power outlet. Up front, I installed a switch for the driving lights as well, and a second cigarette lighter. I made a custom insert where the factory clock used to be.
I love the look of the switch panel with factory switches. I had thought about doing that a while back but completely forgot. I'll add switches to the junkyard list!
08-04-2020, 08:39 AM
