Nice job man. But I gotta admit, you lost me on what you did here other than at the high level of getting rid of the fusible links? I'd love a more detailed write up on how you did it as the whole fusible link thing just makes me anxious that I'm going to burn one out somewhere and get stuck because they used these instead of just using a fuse block as you did front the beginning. Not to mention the idea of having a free extra "expansion" slots for later is pretty neat as well...

 

Fusible links act like slow-blow fuses. Their purpose is to protect the conductors that carry power to a fuse panel, when a small overload isn't as big of a concern as a short circuit. Most vehicles today have a fuse panel in the engine bay near the battery. Mine has one under the dashboard, on the other side of the vehicle. So, in the event of a vehicular accident, I don't want the conductors shorting and arcing long enough to ignite fuel or other combustable materials, or heating up to the point of ignition. So, no, I didn't get rid of them as they're a safety factor.

On my Jeep, All the factory fusible links were bolted to the 5/16" stud of the starter relay. But, as I added more circuits, I ran out of room. And, that stud on the relay isn't strong enough to support additional conductors. So, I replaced the bolt in the factory lead battery post terminal with a stainless bolt that was longer, and moved all my circuits to that- it kept the terminal tight on the post and gave me more thread to add circuits. But, do so put more strain on the terminal end, and if it loosens, it causes a lot of heat. I had another vehicle battery post heat to the point of combustion that way because the lead terminal cracked and no longer was there a good electrical connection. So, that's when I installed the posttive auxiliary post. I have (3) large cables on the replacement positive terminal- starter, winch and auxiliary post. On the auxiliary post, I have the factory links, my two fusible links supplying the starter relay, the added fuse box and the alternator's conductor.

Make any sense?

 

Today after work, I hooked up the battery cables and began checking the circuits of the replacement factory fuse panel. All worked fine until I got to the gauge lights and tail lights. Narrowed it down to the license plate light wiring in the rear of the vehicle. Disconnected the harness in the rear panel, and all worked. This weekend will be time to find the short, and start replacing all the light bulbs and sockets as necessary. The other thing that didn't work is the rear wiper motor. But, the relay clicks and the rear washer fluid pump runs. So, that circuit is good- time for a replacement wiper motor.

 

Went through all the bulbs and sockets and replaced as needed. Took the engine bay light off the hood to figure out why it isn't working. Never noticed, but AMC used a Ford under-hood light! Oddly enough, it has a Jeep part number stamped on it above the Ford logo.

 

Tail lights short was simple. On an '87, there is an extra pair of blue and black wires with opposite male/female ends for a second license plate light on the driver's side of the tailgate as part of the option for the factory tire carrier. Don't plug into each other- it causes a short! But, since they're there, I'll use them on the opposite side for a similar light to move my license plate to the right since installing my Tailbones tire carrier.






The engine compartment hood light was an easy fix. Drilled five rivets that keep the halves of the light together. Opened it up and found a broken tab. You can see my replacement at the end of the green wire. The tab presses against the tilt switch (the bullet-looking object) which is held by a clamp. Re-terminated the wire with a ring terminal, replaced the tab with a modified tab on an old distributor rotor (hardened spring tension), and a new 6/32 screw and nut to replace that rivet. Sanded the clamp and applied oxide inhibitor. Sanded the brass slip-rings and the brass brushes with #1500, applied clear oxide inhibitor again, closed it back up and secured with construction peanut screws. Fixed.

 

Thanks for continuing to post, this is very detailed. After almost a year of looking we found and brought home a 1987 Wagoneer Limited - super super pumped. Now we bought it for our almost 13 year old son to work on with me and be ready for him at 16. One week in and I might have to find another for him, as I love this one, we'll see. Drivers side frame needs some love. What do you think about the frame stiffeners I've seen versus replacement sections? Plan on keeping it very close to original. I really like the mechanical and electrical upgrades you've made. After welding frame and new floors I'll repaint and will need to add the wood back (must have).

 

Hey great job! I've got another question about this light while you're still fresh about it, but where is the light plug attached to the harness? Mine is intact, but was loose under the hood and I cannot for the life of me find where the damn thing is/was plugged into the harness. I'm also planning on changing out the bulb for an LED while I have it out and see cleaning it up - did you consider that?

Nice find! I'm nearing the end of my '87 Wagoneer restoration and can tell you that I really suggest you add the Rusty's rear spring front perch mount brackets while you are working on the floor plans. It makes it much easier to weld them up while the floor is out and I feel it is one of the weakest parts of the Cherokee design. Mine were just hanging on and had I known how bad they were (or the whole floor plans above both perches were completely gone) I wouldn't have felt safe driving it.

Also, I did a lot of research on the different types of vinyl to use to match the original and I'm really happy with the band I chose. Vividd vinyl - teak. I have links in my build thread to what I used. I suggest you buy more than you think you'll need. It's pretty forgiving, but if you overheat or overstretch a section then you'll need to pull it off and get a new piece as it'll gloss up in that area and it's ruined.

Lastly, and I can't tell from the pics, but use a lot of caution when removing the trim pieces, you don't want to bend them or the body panels. Slow and steady and if you start to get frustrated with a piece then walk away for awhile...ask me how I know. You'll break damn near every one of them and they'll need to be replaced with aveco trim attachment brackets. Best place to order, price wise, is Rock Auto. Price is per unit, but it's 50 CT per box. You'll need roughly 1.5 boxes and you'll have to trim about a dozen of them to get them to fit because of how close they are to the end caps of the trim. Not gonna lie, the trim restoration and replacement was about the least fun part of the whole restoration so far... tedious is about the only way to describe it. I recovered each piece with vinyl as well and you couldn't pay me enough to do that again. Doing it over, I'd just paint them a reasonably close facsimile to the original wood color and save myself about 50 hrs of work.

 

The black, straight-blade plug should be a single wire that originates at a fusible link near the male/female plugs on the left side, on top of the wheel well behind the battery. It is 12V positive- the light itself grounds through the hood. I installed a new bond wire between where the light attaches to the hood and the body so I have a better negative for the light. I had considered LED lamps once upon a time; however, due to it's age --obviously visible by the 80s cream-colored body-- I decided to stay with incandescent bulbs on everything to keep with the vintage-age look.

I agree. If the perches need attention, that is the time.

I will most positively be asking advice when I get to the interior stage of my restoration. I'm leaning towards having the seats professionally reupulstered and would love to find the same pattern cloth I have. The headliner is a ways away yet. I am just about ready to order the carpet. I remember my original carpet had the thick black backing, so I will most likely order the mass backing option from ACC. I haven't decided between essex of just cut-pile.

 

That AMC looks to be in good shape for its age. Take care of those tail lights, they are very hard to find. Like you, I have as much fun restoring as I will using it when it is finished.

I personally won't use any of the various brands of frame stiffeners. This is my opinion, of course, but here are my reasons:

• The flat stock allows moisture and contaminants to get in-between the existing unibody frame rails and the steel that is added. There is no realistic way to completely seal all edges of the steel you add.
• If they are added to mask holes, rust, etc., that will only lead to more issues down the road (no pun intended) that will be more difficult to repair or remedy.
• I don't use my Jeep beyond its capabilities. I have always used finesse and grace off-road- as easy as possible and with the least power needed to reduce stresses on the body and drive train. If I need that much extra frame rail support, there is an entire list of additional items to reinforce. After all, it is a Cherokee, not a ¾-ton Suburban.
• I also don't want to introduce unnecessary heat from welding to the frame sections. I've repaired what I needed to on mine to retain as much of the structural integrity of the unibody design.

​​

 

Thank you for your reply - next steps will be to take the family for the next few months to get some ice cream and then into the barn to tear it down to see what I'm looking at repair wise.
I plan on zero off road, treating it like a baby - I like the "original frame" pieces idea, will aim to go that route.

 

Thank you for the tips, I'll pay close attention. Long road ahead of us but I signed up for the trip so it's all worth it.

 

Thanks so much. I'll search that area again. I've had the Jeep for years and never could find the other side of the plug.

Re: the LED lamps - I've been able to find some recently that have a warmer color tone that is much closer to the incandescent look, but are brighter. I actually haven't pulled out that bulb yet though, so I'm not positive they'll have one for that style bulb. If I can find one, I'll let ya know!

The aforementioned "easy access"


And this is with the front perch stiffeners installed. Obviously, not POR-15'd yet...



Certainly! I'll help however I am able. I have had the driver's seat reupholstered and I couldn't suggest having it professionally done more...man it made all the difference. I'm actually going to need to have the passenger and rear seat done as well. I saved a little $$ buy having them use vinyl instead of leather - honestly, it looks and feels just about the same - they've made good strides in the intervening 35 years since these were new.

I was lucky and was able to re-use my carpet as it was in quite good condition. I took it all out and down to a car wash, where I power washed it. If you look in my build thread, you can see the products I used to seal the floorpan, the insulation I used, etc. I can't suggest a carpet type for you, but I bet you could get samples from the company that would help make the decision.

I was able to find the OEM upholstery online. It was years ago, so I can't remember the company I purchased it from. But a quick google search allowed me to find this company and I was able to find my fabric (4049) on the last page at this link: https://oemautofabric.com/wp-content...troit-Book.pdf Now whether they have it in stock is another story...

 

I finally had a few hours to myself tonight. I installed the AMC AM/FM radio I purchased after waiting to find one in good shape. I believe this model was for '84-'86, and starting in '87 the digital equivalent was the standard radio. Nonetheless, it sounds quite good with four 5-¼ inch Pioneer speakers. Granted, the aftermarket speakers are 4-ohm and the receiver was meant to power 8-ohm speakers. So, the volume **** gets loud rather quickly. With the illumination working well and as new with it's greenish hue, I have to try to resurrect the gauge cluster backlighting, likely faded to white due to age, to match.

This model receiver only used six speaker wires; the front and rear of one side's speaker negatives share one conductor at the radio. For anyone needing the wiring colors, they are as follows.

Jeep
12V+, Unstitched...........Red w/ White (not used in my application)
12V+, Swtitched............Violet w/ Orange
Illumination....................Orange w/ Black
Right Rear + .................White w/ Black
Right Front + ................White
Right Rear - ..................Brown
Right Front - .................Black
Left Rear + ...................Green w/ White
Left Front +...................Green
Left Rear - ....................Brown w/ White
Left Front - ...................Black w/ White

Radio (this model receiver)
Right Front + ................White
Right Rear + .................White w/ Black
Right Side - ..................Black
Left Front +...................Green
Left Rear + ...................Green w/ White
Left Side - ....................Black /w White



I'm finding all sorts of unusual light bulbs in places that illuminate the dash or things in it. For example, this is the bulb that illuminates the green ring around the cigarette lighter receptacle. I had never seen a 1891 bulb before today. Luckily, Amazon has a package of two for less than $4.00.

 

That radio looks great! Is it NOS? If not, did you clean it up? It looks brand friggin' new!

 

I don't have any history on it, but yes, it appears as if it is NOS which is why I purchased it. All the functions work, the movement works smoothly and the volume potentiometer isn't pitted or scratchy.