'86 Comanche DD
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,146
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From: Clayton, NC
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.6L I6 Stroker with port matched +99 intake and 62mm TB
If you're just dropping the transmission, you won't have nearly as much to worry about as compared to ripping the whole drivetrain out through the engine bay... I should have been a little smarter about how I maneuvered everything, but luckily I have spare parts lying around that will go on soon. The worst part about dropping the transmission is those top two bolts on the bellhousing... Not only are they a PITA to get to, but they're an inverted torx bolt head (E14, btw).
What's wrong with your transmission anyway?
Edit: I'm going to conclude that you're planning on swapping in the 4WD version of the AW4 since I just now realize your XJ is currently 2WD... Did I guess right? lol
What's wrong with your transmission anyway?
Edit: I'm going to conclude that you're planning on swapping in the 4WD version of the AW4 since I just now realize your XJ is currently 2WD... Did I guess right? lol
Last edited by onlyinajeep726; Sep 18, 2013 at 11:15 PM.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,146
Likes: 0
From: Clayton, NC
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.6L I6 Stroker with port matched +99 intake and 62mm TB
About 3/4ths through (I think)
Getting a little closer... 
Got my LuK clutch kit today and another goodie I picked up off of a guy on ComancheClub. The elusive trailer hitch receiver for a long-bed MJ.
Anyway, in the past few days, I installed the HVAC box, the dash and dash harness. I also made a custom harness to adapt the XJ dash harness to the MJ fuel sender and tail light harness. I've gotten my 4.0 in place and supported on the motor mounts, the flywheel bolted back on (had to remove it to get the engine in), the clutch kit as of tonight. Next big thing is install the transmission and welding in some bolt studs for the relocated crossmember (which I don't know how far back it will be pushed back). Then it's a matter of getting all the piddly, little crap sorted out such as shortening the rear drive shaft and swapping power steering pumps (since I broke the return line barb). And now, it's time for pictures.
DSCF4066_zps135a910b.jpg?t=1380082753
Got my LuK clutch kit today and another goodie I picked up off of a guy on ComancheClub. The elusive trailer hitch receiver for a long-bed MJ.
Anyway, in the past few days, I installed the HVAC box, the dash and dash harness. I also made a custom harness to adapt the XJ dash harness to the MJ fuel sender and tail light harness. I've gotten my 4.0 in place and supported on the motor mounts, the flywheel bolted back on (had to remove it to get the engine in), the clutch kit as of tonight. Next big thing is install the transmission and welding in some bolt studs for the relocated crossmember (which I don't know how far back it will be pushed back). Then it's a matter of getting all the piddly, little crap sorted out such as shortening the rear drive shaft and swapping power steering pumps (since I broke the return line barb). And now, it's time for pictures.
DSCF4066_zps135a910b.jpg?t=1380082753
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,146
Likes: 0
From: Clayton, NC
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.6L I6 Stroker with port matched +99 intake and 62mm TB
Quick update.
I sold my former 2.5 and drive train Tuesday afternoon for $400. That night, I ordered $271 worth of parts from RockAuto to hopefully wrap up this project soon.
Among the things ordered were a new fuel pump (for the 4.0 MPI), a new O2 sensor (to replace the one I broke like a moron), new pre-filled/pre-bled master and slave clutch cylinder system, and other small odds and ends. Just have a few big things to install like the transmission, figuring out how to mount the crossmember and shortening my drive shaft.
I sold my former 2.5 and drive train Tuesday afternoon for $400. That night, I ordered $271 worth of parts from RockAuto to hopefully wrap up this project soon.
Among the things ordered were a new fuel pump (for the 4.0 MPI), a new O2 sensor (to replace the one I broke like a moron), new pre-filled/pre-bled master and slave clutch cylinder system, and other small odds and ends. Just have a few big things to install like the transmission, figuring out how to mount the crossmember and shortening my drive shaft.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,146
Likes: 0
From: Clayton, NC
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.6L I6 Stroker with port matched +99 intake and 62mm TB
Yes, but I went a little overkill I think. I'll know for sure soon when I get ready to install my transmission. There's like 2-2.5" of clearance behind the head of the engine.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,146
Likes: 0
From: Clayton, NC
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.6L I6 Stroker with port matched +99 intake and 62mm TB
Productive day
Today has been pretty productive. I had my buddy Justin come over around lunch time to help with the transmission install. Got all four tires sitting on 8 inch cinder blocks to help with getting the trans. underneath the MJ. Ended up having a hell of a time with it lining up right. Had to take off the transfer case and we finally got it in.
I spent the a good part of the rest of the day figuring out how to bolt the crossmember on... My solution was drilling out the frame rail and tapping it to the bolts that were originally used (3/8" - 16). I know some of you will question the structural integrity of this and I too wonder how it'll hold. I know of the passenger side where I drilled and tapped, there was several layers of sheet metal that equated to about a quarter inch of metal for the bolt to fasten against. On the the driver side, I drilled out the crossmember instead and used an existing bolt hole from the original crossmember. I also broke off the drill bit for my last hole. Right now, I have 5 of 6 bolts holding it in place.
After that, I bolted my transfer case back on. By this point it was close to 7:00 pm, so I called it a night.
Oh, and I also swapped the power steering pump. I used the spare one I formally had on my XJ before I did the stroker swap on it.
The rest that needs to be done is as follows: (may be missing some things)....
Passenger side:
Driver side:
Passenger side, again:
May have to open up the shifter window a little... What do you think?
AW4 dust shield with AX15.
I spent the a good part of the rest of the day figuring out how to bolt the crossmember on... My solution was drilling out the frame rail and tapping it to the bolts that were originally used (3/8" - 16). I know some of you will question the structural integrity of this and I too wonder how it'll hold. I know of the passenger side where I drilled and tapped, there was several layers of sheet metal that equated to about a quarter inch of metal for the bolt to fasten against. On the the driver side, I drilled out the crossmember instead and used an existing bolt hole from the original crossmember. I also broke off the drill bit for my last hole. Right now, I have 5 of 6 bolts holding it in place.
After that, I bolted my transfer case back on. By this point it was close to 7:00 pm, so I called it a night.
Oh, and I also swapped the power steering pump. I used the spare one I formally had on my XJ before I did the stroker swap on it.
The rest that needs to be done is as follows: (may be missing some things)....
- 4WD linkages
- Fuel lines
- O2 sensor
- Wire back-up light
- Bolt-on the trans. shifter
- Shorten the rear drive shaft
- Install both drive shafts
- Fill the transfer case, transmission and power steering pump with their respective fluids
- Fill engine with oil and install new filter
- Swap fuel pump
- Install the CPS and mock up a mounting bracket (more on that later)
- Install starter
- NSS bypass
- Get the little window part of the dust shield bolted up (I'm using the former AW4 one)
- New spark plugs
- Custom ignition coil bracket
- '91+ heater hoses
- Overflow bottle
- Fill coolant system
- Torque down oil pan
- Clean/degrease engine
- Install throttle cable
- Plug in and fasten cruise control module
- Bolt-on exhaust down pipe
- Install air cleaner box
- Bolt down 4.0 battery tray
- Hook up clutch pedal to master cylinder push rod
- A/C lines with new O-rings
- New, HD engine-to-chassis ground strap
- Etc, etc.
Passenger side:
Driver side:
Passenger side, again:
May have to open up the shifter window a little... What do you think?
AW4 dust shield with AX15.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 328
Likes: 5
From: Dominican Republic
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: inline 6
Holy cow. One would have thought that a swap like this would have been a lot simpler than this.
You're doing a great job of documenting it in pictures too.
You're doing a great job of documenting it in pictures too.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,146
Likes: 0
From: Clayton, NC
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.6L I6 Stroker with port matched +99 intake and 62mm TB
Also, thank you.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,146
Likes: 0
From: Clayton, NC
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.6L I6 Stroker with port matched +99 intake and 62mm TB
Started the MJ!
Man, I'm so close to be completed with this swap.
I've managed to get a lot of stuff done over the past few days. Fuel lines installed, fuel pump swapped, coolant added, oil and filter added, A/C lines installed with new O-rings... you name it. Still have a bit to do. Shortening the rear drive shaft is one of them, then she can move under her own power. I realized that synthetic 75W-90 GL-4 gear oil is not cheap. Need that to fill the AX15... I hope everything is good with the trans. since I had no good way to tell if it worked before I bought it... Fingers crossed.
Anyway, I got the 4.0 started today!! Ran a bit rough and shaky idle. Found out later by dumb luck that the vacuum line for the MAP sensor had pulled off. Put that back on, fired her up and she runs smooth as silk. SUCCESS!!
So... video? I think so.
I've managed to get a lot of stuff done over the past few days. Fuel lines installed, fuel pump swapped, coolant added, oil and filter added, A/C lines installed with new O-rings... you name it. Still have a bit to do. Shortening the rear drive shaft is one of them, then she can move under her own power. I realized that synthetic 75W-90 GL-4 gear oil is not cheap. Need that to fill the AX15... I hope everything is good with the trans. since I had no good way to tell if it worked before I bought it... Fingers crossed.
Anyway, I got the 4.0 started today!! Ran a bit rough and shaky idle. Found out later by dumb luck that the vacuum line for the MAP sensor had pulled off. Put that back on, fired her up and she runs smooth as silk. SUCCESS!!
So... video? I think so.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 328
Likes: 5
From: Dominican Republic
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: inline 6
Man, I'm so close to be completed with this swap.
Anyway, I got the 4.0 started today!! Ran a bit rough and shaky idle. Found out later by dumb luck that the vacuum line for the MAP sensor had pulled off. Put that back on, fired her up and she runs smooth as silk. SUCCESS!!
So... video? I think so.
'86 Jeep Comanche start up with 4.0L - YouTube
Anyway, I got the 4.0 started today!! Ran a bit rough and shaky idle. Found out later by dumb luck that the vacuum line for the MAP sensor had pulled off. Put that back on, fired her up and she runs smooth as silk. SUCCESS!!
So... video? I think so.
'86 Jeep Comanche start up with 4.0L - YouTube
Great oil pressure, and the alternator is pushing 14V. Niiiice!!
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,146
Likes: 0
From: Clayton, NC
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.6L I6 Stroker with port matched +99 intake and 62mm TB
Oil pressure is reading a little high, I suspect. I say that because I believe the oil pressure sending unit is fault. I had it in my 2.5L and it read that high also... Doesn't move a lot when you rev the engine either. As for the alternator, it's fairly new. Still shiny lol.