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1999 XJ "Grandma Gold"

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Old 05-14-2018, 03:51 PM
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I'm planning to be in town most of the summer. If you get them fit up, I'll weld them. Honestly, the fit up is the hard part. Welding them in shouldn't take too much time. Welding thick to thin takes skill, but isn't any more labor intensive than welding any other material.

Same phone number. Shoot me a text and we can work out the details.
Old 05-15-2018, 01:26 AM
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Would you be able to work with how he cut it past the pinch seam in the video? It shows what i'd look like @ 11 minutes as well. It seems very straight forward to what I would need to cut out, i've watched many videos about it throughout the year and even have an album of people's projects.

I will definitely send you a text pretty soon. Thanks for the support, you're the best!
Old 05-15-2018, 04:24 AM
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I can work with that. I don't like how he nipped the seat belt nut, I think it is wiser to notch the tube. Curious, why are you going with 2x6 rockers? Are yours rotten? Are you going to work a rock rail into the tube?
Old 05-15-2018, 09:25 AM
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Awesome, I don't like it either, I was just going to grind it down until it fit but I'll notch the tube then. I had a ton of rocker rust and a few years ago I cut out all the rust and por15 the insides of the rocker then put on these slip on covers and riveted it on, however I know it's only a temporary solution and would like to get rid of the covers before it eats away the rest of my rocker.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JGZLPSQ

You can actually see my photos on there, boy I miss the clean not cut up look sometimes.

I originally wanted to just weld in some 2x4 and call it a day but everybody that did it said they wish they did 2x6. Tubing would be pretty nice but that would be further down the line. Unless I do 2x4 and then add tube to extend it out a little bit. 2x6 would stick out about 1 1/2" inches from the door and 2x4 would sit flush from what I have seen.
Old 05-15-2018, 09:57 PM
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2x6 rockers are the best way to do rock sliders. All the guys I know with bolt on sliders they bend and flex and they all have dented rockers from the sliders hitting. I personally ground the bolt flush with the nut and used angle iron to support the 2x6 from the bottom a little too. If you keep the 2x6 sliders solid you can use them as air tanks also.
Old 05-17-2018, 10:05 AM
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1/8" plate welded over the rear unibody crack I had. It'll do for now, stiffeners are a must but not anytime soon. It actually creeks a little less in the back now believe it or not, and now I feel safe driving it on the beach without tearing apart the unibody.
Also had him weld a few spots in the front tie in plates which are 3/16" plate. I don't want to deal with the dreaded unibody crack where the steering box in the future, which is apparently pretty common.

A little rattle can on the bare metal and she's good to go. Also looks like I'll be going the 2x6 rocker route instead of 2x4.
Old 05-18-2018, 05:17 AM
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Where's your other bumper bolt? Need to run a drill bit through the hole to get everything to line up?
Old 05-18-2018, 07:14 AM
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The stock bumper mounts didn't line up right because of the additional plates thickness added on each side, so I figured 5 of 6 holes were good enough and I just wanted to throw it on and be done with it lol. I didn't feel like modifying it to fit. It's only until I can get a decent front bumper.

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Old 05-18-2018, 02:43 PM
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Fair enough. IIRC, the bumper bolts are 1/2" diameter. Load a 1/2" drill bit in the drill and jam it through the hole. It will go through the hole at an angle, then you side load the bit to get it to straighten out. 10 minutes of work and the bolt will slide in. BUT, if you aren't using a winch with it, then it's good enough. Roll on!
Old 05-18-2018, 02:46 PM
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When I go aftermarket I'll be sure it uses plenty of unibody to grab too
Old 05-18-2018, 07:36 PM
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I found a pair of manual window regulators today for my 98 doors. If the weather holds out this weekend, I'll swap the 98 doors onto my 90.

I found another 97+ with manual windows in a junkyard under the high rise bridge if you are still looking. They were asking ~$120 for the pair of regulators. A bit high IMHO, but if you want them you want them.
Old 05-18-2018, 08:07 PM
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Good to hear! I'll wait until I find a nice set of 4 manual doors with no rust and straight panels. Mine aren't rusted but has some surface rust peeking through. Thanks though, glad that you found some for yourself.
Old 05-21-2018, 01:33 PM
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Nothing new to the jeep, but bought an inflatable kayak off Amazon for $60 when it's usually $100. Seats 2 and has a 400lb weight capacity and comes with two oars and two pumps. We have a jon boat but it needs a ton of work to it, which will be the summer project.
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Old 05-25-2018, 03:13 PM
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Got a few things today, front window regulators, driver side mirror, some door wiring harnesses, bad_idea, thanks again! I also got back my old light bar from an old friend of mine who asked me if I wanted it back before he tossed it. I'm thinking about restoring it and throwing on some 6" round LED lights. It's very close to the roof rack and mounts to the gutters. I'm not sure if I want to mount lights to the rack itself or just run this in front of it seperately.
I think it completes the look on top. View from the side.
These are cheap harbor freight lamps that are going in the trash.
What do you guys think? Ditch it and mount lights on the rack or restore this light bar mount?
Old 05-25-2018, 07:48 PM
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It was good meeting you today.

If it were me, I would mount them to the rack. I think the light bar in front of the rack is too much, looks cluttered.


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