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I wasn't able to find the bolts you mentioned, but I'm gonna bring the brackets into school tomorrow and see if my teacher will let me weld new "studs" and if so then I'll go look again and get some bolts.
All but the really big washer with the smaller hole, flat Washer - 5/32 x 7/8, I found at my Napa.
That washer I found at the hardware store. A local True Value one
Must have spent an hour in front of the nuts and bolts rack figuring out something that would hopefully work.
Even after I sorted it out, in theory, wasn't sure it would until I actually bolted it up. LOL.
So looking at back at my files what I listed I realized I made a mistake.
The bolt is an M5X0.8X25.
Forgot to type the damn "X".
Sorry.
All but the really big washer with the smaller hole, flat Washer - 5/32 x 7/8, I found at my Napa.
That washer I found at the hardware store. A local True Value one
Must have spent an hour in front of the nuts and bolts rack figuring out something that would hopefully work.
Even after I sorted it out, in theory, wasn't sure it would until I actually bolted it up. LOL.
So looking at back at my files what I listed I realized I made a mistake.
The bolt is an M5X0.8X25.
Forgot to type the damn "X".
Sorry.
I assumed it was a M5X0.8 so it's all good. Thanks a ton for the link, I'll just order it for store pickup.
I would give you the Napa numbers but a couple of them, like for the bolt, are no good anymore.
We used sell Lawson stuff when I did this, way back when, and now it is Rockford/Dorman.
Thing with me using what I used it that it needs to fit through the hole, with the one nut that secures the bolt to the bracket, in the front fender or rear quarter.
Get everything nice and tight against the body.
The big washer with the small hole is what keeps everything in place with the second nut.
The lock washers just cause I like lock washers. LOL.
Keep in mind that the retainer brackets are galvanized so when welding zinc oxide fumes are generated. A respirator should be used. The brackets are pretty thin so just a tack weld would be needed.
If you have more than a couple of brackets with broken off studs it seems like it would be a lot easier to just get the fender flare retainer set that includes all brackets, nuts and retainer pins for the fender liners, etc. Crown part number 55003232K for '84 to '96 for less than $80. I am sure if you have just a few broken studs the brackets could be repaired. Epoxy might be an alternative to welding. Even though my '91 is basically free of rust I still broke at least one stud on most brackets.
The flange nuts take a 10 mm hex wrench but the stud is pretty small diameter, maybe M4.
Easier maybe, more expensive definitely. If this doesn't work then I'll explore other options. Thanks for the reminder about the respirator.
Local dealership wants $15 more than mymoparparts plus shipping for oil pressure sender and mymoparparts has some pretty bad reviews online in addition to them not responding to my emails and their order button not working. So I may just have to go with the dealership...
Local dealership wants $15 more than mymoparparts plus shipping for oil pressure sender and mymoparparts has some pretty bad reviews online in addition to them not responding to my emails and their order button not working. So I may just have to go with the dealership...
Huh, I just searched again and I didn't see that one. Amazon Also found this one which looks the same as the one you linked but according to amazon it won't "fit". But the part number is correct on both.
Well I am noticing that in my '94 to '96 parts catalog that there are no letters after the numbers.
I kinda thought that sensors, Jeep refers to it as a sending unit in the parts catalog, in '96 and down Jeep there were 2.
One for an idiot light cluster and 1 for a gauge cluster.
But I am only seeing the one.
I am confused.
Well I am noticing that in my '94 to '96 parts catalog that there are no letters after the numbers.
I kinda thought that sensors, Jeep refers to it as a sending unit in the parts catalog, in '96 and down Jeep there were 2.
One for an idiot light cluster and 1 for a gauge cluster.
But I am only seeing the one.
I am confused.
I'm under the impression there is two aswell. A thread I saved a while ago about swapping clusters says that coolant temp sender and oil pressure sender are the two things that need to be changed.
Also the mymoparparts part had ab after the part number and it said it'd fit, so maybe amazon is just wonky?
I'm under the impression there is two aswell. A thread I saved a while ago about swapping clusters says that coolant temp sender and oil pressure sender are the two things that need to be changed.
Also the mymoparparts part had ab after the part number and it said it'd fit, so maybe amazon is just wonky?
Same here having browsed a cluster swap thread or 2 for the '96 and down.
I don't pay attention to the letters.
I think they are more a year designation.
Hasn't bitten me in the *** yet but........
LOL.
My guess is it what you said.
Amazon being wonky.
Same here having browsed a cluster swap thread or 2 for the '96 and down.
I don't pay attention to the letters.
I think they are more a year designation.
Hasn't bitten me in the *** yet but........
LOL.
My guess is it what you said.
Amazon being wonky.
I'll roll a dice for which one to get and try my luck.
I pulled the gauge cluster out of the parts jeep today, it was kinda a pain to unplug from behind but I got it eventually. I'll pull mine later today. Also found the battery tie down in the back of the parts jeep which I'll install onto mine, after some paint, since mine is a pain. Quick question, is the current resting position of the gauge needles any indication that the gauges will read inaccurately? Or is resting place irrelevant?
Last edited by Spencer_P; Dec 6, 2019 at 07:38 PM.
I removed my cluster and it's interesting that a few parts of the process were different than on the parts jeep even though they're both 96. Like in the parts jeep I could get straight to the screws and take it out but on my jeep I had to unscrew and move the cig lighter and the headlight switch to get to some screws. Also the dash bezels use different style clips. Anyways I thought that was interesting. Let's try and switch these odometers over.
Last edited by Spencer_P; Dec 6, 2019 at 09:51 PM.
I can turn the odometer manually and everything rolls over fine so gears are fine and I assume it’s an electrical issue. I was gonna ask what NS means but
