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1995 XJ SE Refurb 104K in NW PA

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Old Feb 13, 2025 | 06:04 PM
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From: NW PA
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Default 1995 XJ SE Refurb 104K in NW PA

Just got this XJ. It is bare bones SE. Idiot lights, crank windows, manual door locks, etc. But it only has 104K miles. One owner vehicle from Connecticut.

Ordered parts for suspension and all fluids/filters so far. Going with Dorman 929-301's, Moog CC782 coils, Monroe OE Spectrums. Doing the "Up Country" set up. Tires are going on Sunday - Kuhmo AT's 235 75 R15. Need to check u-joints, drive axles and replace as needed. All soft parts front and rear will get changed.

Ordered a front and back set of floor pans from Classic2Current fabrication. If floor pan rot isn't to bad after I pull up the carpet, I will just patch them and then use those on my other one, a 1999 (which I know needs them) Also ordered a left side outer rocker and left/right lower rear quarter. Left rocker and quarters weren't that bad but I figured it was easier to just put in complete repops.

Deleted the heater control valve last night because I looked at it wrong and one of the plastic nozzles broke. Changed the ignition switch and cleaned/reseated fuses because of some strange electrical issues. I got the radio, headlights, interior lights and buzzer back but the HVAC blower and turn signal/hazards are still not working. Tomorrow taking a deep dive into those issues. Grounding, blower and turn signal/hazard troubleshooting. Neutral safety switch removed, cleaned and reinstalled. All good now. Got a new battery because I was not playing the repair/recharge game.

It needs headliner redone, valve cover gasket, rear wiper arm, rear liftgate struts, cat back exhaust, a good buff/wax, and a little love. Cooling system looked relatively clean. I dropped some just for a "look" and what came out was not rusty sludge. But I'm going to s cooling system flush and refresh. Underside looks really good for a 30 year car from CT. Unibody solid, rear shackles, front coil perches are all solid. There will be a lot of wire wheeling and rust covert/encapsulate/coat but things looks good. Brakes done 10K miles ago so those should be good. But I will take things apart and reassemble to make sure it's right.



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Old Feb 16, 2025 | 06:28 PM
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Electrical issues:
No hazards or turn signals - relay in the block behind trim and above driver's knee was missing. Installed an EP27 relay and all is well. I have no idea why someone would remove the relay.

Blower not working - mice made a very comfortable nest in the blower wheel. At some point the motor must have gotten smoked. No continuity across +/- on motor side. I am getting voltage to the motor at the harness, so when the new blower motor comes tomorrow I'll know if it all is good. I hope this an easy one also. Weather here in NW PA is freaking miserable. Snow, sleet, freezing rain, a little thawing then re-freeze overnight.

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Old Feb 27, 2025 | 09:04 AM
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Got the interior out and it's a little uglier than I hoped for.

I knew passenger side floor was bad and driver side floor not as bad. Under rear seat and into the rise to the cargo area/front of the rear wheel wells was not good.

I got replacement parts from Raybuck and C2C but we will be fabricating to fix some areas. I need to find a local source for sheet metal. Box stores/TSC only have 16 or 22 gauge. 22 is too light and 16 is too heavy.



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