01 Cherokee Low n Slow
#48
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Year: 01
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Well I waited until Friday morning to put the tires and wheels together.
Got them together and took them to a friends shop to balance them. 3 of them got less than 5oz where one got 9.75 oz.
Still haven't driven it because I am fighting the brakes. They won't bleed out. There has to be some air somewhere that isn't getting pushed out.
Bled with power bleeder as well as the two person old school method. Twice! The second time was after removing the master cylinder and bench bleeding it.
A few pictures.
Got them together and took them to a friends shop to balance them. 3 of them got less than 5oz where one got 9.75 oz.
Still haven't driven it because I am fighting the brakes. They won't bleed out. There has to be some air somewhere that isn't getting pushed out.
Bled with power bleeder as well as the two person old school method. Twice! The second time was after removing the master cylinder and bench bleeding it.
A few pictures.
Last edited by thetastelingers; 09-04-2018 at 06:34 AM.
#49
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Location: Edmonton Alberta
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.o
For your brake Bleeding issues, Make sure all the calipers have the bleeder facing up, if they all are i suspect the master Cylinder to be the culprit of the air in the brakes.
#50
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Year: 01
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I almost purchased a new master cylinder Sunday, but I don't understand how it could be fine and then it be bad after removing the rear end and replacing it. The rear line was capped off and the fluid never dropped lower than the add mark in the reservoir.
I imagine air is trapped somewhere and just not being pushed out for some reason.
Thanks for the suggestions!
#53
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have found in the past after you have a brake issue like a broken line or even caliper or wheel cyl replacement that the master cyl is now bad . From my best guess is that the o ring seals have been riding in the same spot of the master cyl for a very long time and once its pushed out of that sweet spot the o rings scrape over corrosion or debris that haven't moved in a long time and ruins the seal after being pushed into the zone in witch it has never been .Another thing I have seen is the proportioning valve get stuck, sometimes it moves when you loose front or rear pressure and because of varnish,corrosion or debris it can not return to its proper center just 2 things I have seen more than a few times in my years as a tech
#54
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Join Date: Jan 2018
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Year: 01
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I have found in the past after you have a brake issue like a broken line or even caliper or wheel cyl replacement that the master cyl is now bad . From my best guess is that the o ring seals have been riding in the same spot of the master cyl for a very long time and once its pushed out of that sweet spot the o rings scrape over corrosion or debris that haven't moved in a long time and ruins the seal after being pushed into the zone in witch it has never been .Another thing I have seen is the proportioning valve get stuck, sometimes it moves when you loose front or rear pressure and because of varnish,corrosion or debris it can not return to its proper center just 2 things I have seen more than a few times in my years as a tech
I'm going to give it one last effort before I purchase a master cylinder. A buddy of mine has an air actuated bleeder at his shop. Going to see if that will help first.
Going to break in the rear gears before I drive over there though.
#55
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Year: 01
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I broke in the gears last night. Pedal is still squishy, but stops well.
Sooooo I drove it into work today. Was nice to drive it.
The vibration is still there, so I guess I'll move to the transfer case next.
Sooooo I drove it into work today. Was nice to drive it.
The vibration is still there, so I guess I'll move to the transfer case next.
#56
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Year: 01
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Been a bit since the last update.
The brakes fixed themselves with a little driving. I think the stock master cylinder working those 3/4 ton brakes has something to do with it. I've hammered on the brakes and it will about throw you forward and stop pretty quick.
I think I'll eventually replace the master with a 2000 model 2500 Dodge master.
thanks everyone for the suggestions and help.
As for the vibration, I am going to remove the double Cardon unit from the driveshaft and see if that helps.
I've raised the engine to lessen the angle up top, checked and re-checked driveline angles and everything is where it is suppose to be. I think the angle at the top is a bit much for the double cardon setup.
I ordered the bolt on shackle relocation kit from H.D. Engineering that I am going to install Friday. The rear is sagging a little. These will fix the sag and help with a little more articulation.
I also ordered a 4.5" diameter power steering pulley to help with the low RPM turning. It should be here next week.
The need to get in the woods is large.
I keep an eye out for an NP241OR to purchase. They are few and far between. One came up for sale local from a buddy. Unfortunately I didn't have the funds to pick it up at the time.
The brakes fixed themselves with a little driving. I think the stock master cylinder working those 3/4 ton brakes has something to do with it. I've hammered on the brakes and it will about throw you forward and stop pretty quick.
I think I'll eventually replace the master with a 2000 model 2500 Dodge master.
thanks everyone for the suggestions and help.
As for the vibration, I am going to remove the double Cardon unit from the driveshaft and see if that helps.
I've raised the engine to lessen the angle up top, checked and re-checked driveline angles and everything is where it is suppose to be. I think the angle at the top is a bit much for the double cardon setup.
I ordered the bolt on shackle relocation kit from H.D. Engineering that I am going to install Friday. The rear is sagging a little. These will fix the sag and help with a little more articulation.
I also ordered a 4.5" diameter power steering pulley to help with the low RPM turning. It should be here next week.
The need to get in the woods is large.
I keep an eye out for an NP241OR to purchase. They are few and far between. One came up for sale local from a buddy. Unfortunately I didn't have the funds to pick it up at the time.
#57
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Location: Portland, Oregon
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Dang! Love this Xj! And your color choice on the wheels! Curious what you think of the pitbulls too
what box and pump do you have? The way that ram is mounted isn’t ideal but doesn’t have anything to do with responsiveness so I’m wondering what pump and box you’ve got (maybe I missed it)
and ram for that matter, is it a 1.5, 1.75?
what box and pump do you have? The way that ram is mounted isn’t ideal but doesn’t have anything to do with responsiveness so I’m wondering what pump and box you’ve got (maybe I missed it)
and ram for that matter, is it a 1.5, 1.75?
#58
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: Louisville KY
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Year: 01
Model: Cherokee
Been a bit since the last update.
The brakes fixed themselves with a little driving. I think the stock master cylinder working those 3/4 ton brakes has something to do with it. I've hammered on the brakes and it will about throw you forward and stop pretty quick.
I think I'll eventually replace the master with a 2000 model 2500 Dodge master.
thanks everyone for the suggestions and help.
As for the vibration, I am going to remove the double Cardon unit from the driveshaft and see if that helps.
I've raised the engine to lessen the angle up top, checked and re-checked driveline angles and everything is where it is suppose to be. I think the angle at the top is a bit much for the double cardon setup.
I ordered the bolt on shackle relocation kit from H.D. Engineering that I am going to install Friday. The rear is sagging a little. These will fix the sag and help with a little more articulation.
I also ordered a 4.5" diameter power steering pulley to help with the low RPM turning. It should be here next week.
The need to get in the woods is large.
I keep an eye out for an NP241OR to purchase. They are few and far between. One came up for sale local from a buddy. Unfortunately I didn't have the funds to pick it up at the time.
The brakes fixed themselves with a little driving. I think the stock master cylinder working those 3/4 ton brakes has something to do with it. I've hammered on the brakes and it will about throw you forward and stop pretty quick.
I think I'll eventually replace the master with a 2000 model 2500 Dodge master.
thanks everyone for the suggestions and help.
As for the vibration, I am going to remove the double Cardon unit from the driveshaft and see if that helps.
I've raised the engine to lessen the angle up top, checked and re-checked driveline angles and everything is where it is suppose to be. I think the angle at the top is a bit much for the double cardon setup.
I ordered the bolt on shackle relocation kit from H.D. Engineering that I am going to install Friday. The rear is sagging a little. These will fix the sag and help with a little more articulation.
I also ordered a 4.5" diameter power steering pulley to help with the low RPM turning. It should be here next week.
The need to get in the woods is large.
I keep an eye out for an NP241OR to purchase. They are few and far between. One came up for sale local from a buddy. Unfortunately I didn't have the funds to pick it up at the time.
I had similar issues with my brakes after I pulled the rear axle. Bled them every way you can think of, but ultimately about 100 miles of driving fixed the problem.
Youll love the HDOR shackle brackets. I have the no lift version. My rear flexes literally too much now. My shock is my limiting factor, and without cutting the wheel wells out, I won’t be able to fix that issue.
Love the new wheels. Your axle combo is what I’m thinking as well. Maybe a 9” instead of a 60. Who knows.
#59
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Soddy Daisy
Posts: 308
Received 12 Likes
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11 Posts
Year: 01
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Dang! Love this Xj! And your color choice on the wheels! Curious what you think of the pitbulls too
what box and pump do you have? The way that ram is mounted isn’t ideal but doesn’t have anything to do with responsiveness so I’m wondering what pump and box you’ve got (maybe I missed it)
and ram for that matter, is it a 1.5, 1.75?
what box and pump do you have? The way that ram is mounted isn’t ideal but doesn’t have anything to do with responsiveness so I’m wondering what pump and box you’ve got (maybe I missed it)
and ram for that matter, is it a 1.5, 1.75?
Pump is OEM stock.
I am unaware at this time what size for the ram. I will put a tape on it and see, but I am thinking 1.5
I had similar issues with my brakes after I pulled the rear axle. Bled them every way you can think of, but ultimately about 100 miles of driving fixed the problem.
Youll love the HDOR shackle brackets. I have the no lift version. My rear flexes literally too much now. My shock is my limiting factor, and without cutting the wheel wells out, I won’t be able to fix that issue.
Love the new wheels. Your axle combo is what I’m thinking as well. Maybe a 9” instead of a 60. Who knows.
Youll love the HDOR shackle brackets. I have the no lift version. My rear flexes literally too much now. My shock is my limiting factor, and without cutting the wheel wells out, I won’t be able to fix that issue.
Love the new wheels. Your axle combo is what I’m thinking as well. Maybe a 9” instead of a 60. Who knows.
If you are doing a 44 in the front, with a 60 in the rear, at least you would have the same bolt pattern. One less thing to worry about matching.
I did some work in the garage this weekend and was able to get the PS pulley on. Drove it yesterday morning and the slow speed turning is night and day difference. I can turn the wheels sitting still now at idle!!
Last edited by thetastelingers; 10-29-2018 at 06:17 AM.
#60
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Nice! The pulley should help
Do you have a cooler? As long as you’ve got a decent cooler you should be good. Only reason I splurged for the psc pump was my 240k mile factory pump was having a hard time keeping up, I’m sure it was at the end of its life
Do you have a cooler? As long as you’ve got a decent cooler you should be good. Only reason I splurged for the psc pump was my 240k mile factory pump was having a hard time keeping up, I’m sure it was at the end of its life