Hello all...

I will be in the Catlett, Warrenton area coming up from Charlottesville tomorrow...

Will anyone be around during the day to meet up and say hey, maybe lunch? I'd like to meet some other XJ people around the area...

I will be around most of the day, possibly overnight before I have to head back to Charlottesville...

I'm in the Madison area, Culpeper side actually. Gotta roll into work at 1 pm though.

Hey any Hanover, Goochland, Ashland jeepers?

Just a shot in the dark. I've really got to replace the hard brake line running from the prop valve to the rear soft line. Hell, I don't even need the whole line replaced as the last 1/3 going to the prop valve is perfectly fine. I simply have no knowledge of flaring and it looks like I can't even get a pipe cutter in this tight space. Any Warrenton area fellow Jeepers potentially have time to lend a help hand/expertise? I can supply beer of choice and you can take the rest home (of age of course). Just trying to tackle this thing.

Edit: Pizza too!

I'm too far to be of much help but,
the double flare can be practiced a couple times before doing it on the real thing. Brake lines on the XJ are 'double flare'. I have also seen 'bubble flare' at the proportion valve.

Try one of these tubing cutters (picture).
But if the cutters will hardly fit, then getting the flare tool set and made in that spot could be very difficult. Consider cutting somewhere you can easily flare it, otherwise run it all the way.
I do not recommend compression fittings for a permanent fix.

See thats the given... I think being on my back in this tight spot is going to be a herka berk no go. Im probably going to disconnect the line at the prop valve (afraid of fubaring the flare), drop the whole line, cut off the good stuff that sit near the LCA and flare it, then mount that piece back in and go from there. There is a straight section at that LCA point that is perfect for a flare union. Just gotta disconnect the whole damn thing, and apparently the fittings are different sizes.

No compressions, could not agree more! I want something that will last.

^ Excellent Plan!

Any idea the flare nut size on the bottom of the prop valve? The one on the other end of my 3/8 flare wrench fits the top ones but not the bottom.

i believe it's 1/2"

Don't think I've posted in here yet. I'm from the Winchester area. Currently building up my MJ. Hoping it will be off road worthy by spring. Looking forward to meeting up with some people next year. Planning a Rausch Creek trip next summer.

I get out towards Winchester all the time. Hopefully I'll see your rig out on the trails one of these days!

Got the old brake line coming out. A few questions:

1) the end of the line going into the soft line is uber rusted and I can't break it loose. I had to break the end off of the line to get it out. I think I have rounded the flare nut... am I screwed? Im going to try and smack a socket on it and get that flare nut out.

2) AutoZone only had brass flare unions for my sections of line. I will have 2 of these unions joining my long piece to the piece running up beside beside control arm and finally that piece to the last section going to the proportioning valve. These are inverted flare unions... no compression.

3) I need to swap my soft lines on my rear calipers to Better route the hard lines on the axle; basically the left caliper soft line on the right and vise versa. Any harm?

Thanks yall!

1) When that happened to me on the front line, I had to cut it, slide on a new fitting and double flare the cut brake line.

2) As long as they are flared. What type of brake line are you using, basic steel or nickel?

3) Better than swapping the calipers (that was a joke). Swapping soft lines should be fine.

1) the flared nut is stuck in the soft line union. If I cant get it out, I reckon I will replace. Was just hoping to wait until I lifted and got a longer line.

2) yes, absolutely flared. Double flared. I am using the green line from AutoZone so I reckon it is basic steel.

3) I was thinking of swapping the calipers and just modifying the rotor to sit on the axle tubes. Lol!

^
1) I see. Might have to bite the bullet and get a replacement soft line. The Dodge Dakota rear line is 6" longer and costs $20.
Jeep YJ = 3" longer, $30

2) Steel lines, consider painting or undercoating them when finished.

3) Seriously consider replacing the soft lines to caliper if not already done with the ZJ swap. They are a known weak point. Replacement with stock is fine.