Any Georgians?
MJ>XJ
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 17,836
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From: Griffin, G.A.
Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
theres a BDS lift on there right now for i think a ZJ... but it may have been a WJ cant remember...
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Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Atlanta
Year: 90
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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From: Carrollton, Georgia
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Liter High Output
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Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Winder
Year: 91
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
L
I'm running a 14 bolt in the rear on a double triangulated 4 link, chevy 60 up front....513 yukons, a 300 transfer case...double beedlocks inside a nice set of TSL's....oh, all pushed with an AW4......
i drive my jeep carefully...i'm not one who is heavy on the throttle...i actually have decent flex with them...my rear shocks are too short right now to really get a good flex shot as they shipped me the wrong ones...i go alot of trail riding and i do some moderate trails...no i dont hardcore rock crawl it...but i go where ever a mildly built jeep goes...i have pushed it more and more lately since i will be upgrading everything soon and i hate to replace something if its not broken...plus i like to know just how far something will go till it does break...but thats just me
and as far as safish and i going toe to toe on the trails...i'm always up from wheelin...nothing wrong with friendly competition
btw safish nice rig...what are you running drive line wise?
and as far as safish and i going toe to toe on the trails...i'm always up from wheelin...nothing wrong with friendly competition
btw safish nice rig...what are you running drive line wise?
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Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Winder
Year: 91
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
I would stay away from the LQ4 and chevy drivetrain unless your going to reinforce the ***** out of the inibody...All your gonna do is stretch the frame and create undo stress from the HP and torque....all u neee is a good gear setup and it'll go wherever u point it..
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Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Winder
Year: 91
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
Dont be cheap...save your money, take your time, do reseaech and look at lots of build threads, cifer through the BS...and build it right the first time...."Patience"
MJ>XJ
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 17,836
Likes: 7
From: Griffin, G.A.
Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
Originally Posted by safish
LI'm running a 14 bolt in the rear on a double triangulated 4 link, chevy 60 up front....513 yukons, a 300 transfer case...double beedlocks inside a nice set of TSL's....oh, all pushed with an AW4......
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 140
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From: Winder
Year: 91
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
U happy with that 300? I find 60's all day from Chevy's and there cheap... Fords are high... and hard to find... plus I think the 300's stronger and of course can be twin sticked... haven't really looked into the swap much... think ill be doing the triangulated 4 link up front as well when I'm ready... gonna need hydro steering for these 37's... probly just leave the rear as leafs... I dunno...
2cd, because there are lots of clearence issues and no good place for the crossmember that the uppers need to attach to...Put a Rusty's long arm kit up front and call it done, simple, and easy to install....Make sure if you get a front 60 that you get one with the king pin, get rid of any balljoint type..They are much stronger....The other thing to look for is to get a high pinion 60 wich only comes drivers side drop and retube it to acomodate the 300 w/o doing a 300 flip....
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From: LARRYVILLE
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
MJ>XJ
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 17,836
Likes: 7
From: Griffin, G.A.
Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
Originally Posted by safish
Yeah, the 300 is the closest thing you'll get to an Atlas, and its a strong TC....I wouldwould 4 link the rear before the front, 1st cause its easier and
2cd, because there are lots of clearence issues and no good place for the crossmember that the uppers need to attach to...Put a Rusty's long arm kit up front and call it done, simple, and easy to install....Make sure if you get a front 60 that you get one with the king pin, get rid of any balljoint type..They are much stronger....The other thing to look for is to get a high pinion 60 wich only comes drivers side drop and retube it to acomodate the 300 w/o doing a 300 flip....
2cd, because there are lots of clearence issues and no good place for the crossmember that the uppers need to attach to...Put a Rusty's long arm kit up front and call it done, simple, and easy to install....Make sure if you get a front 60 that you get one with the king pin, get rid of any balljoint type..They are much stronger....The other thing to look for is to get a high pinion 60 wich only comes drivers side drop and retube it to acomodate the 300 w/o doing a 300 flip....
MJ>XJ
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 17,836
Likes: 7
From: Griffin, G.A.
Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
got it... has control arms and steering and all... was heavy as crap to put in the back of my truck though... i recommend a trailer instead to anyone... lol... $250 well spent! got my 9in rear disc brakes as well... now i think im just gonna go ahead and order some moser axles custom made for the 9in with 8x170 bolt pattern and stronger of course... and two H1 re-centers so i can at least get the rear end in and have it a true 2 wheel drive till i get this D60 built...