Four Corners Colorado, New Mexico, Utah & Arizona

Northern Utah BS thread

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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 09:21 PM
  #10006  
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Year: whats left of a 91
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Originally Posted by xX05Xx
Does anyone know someone that needs tires? I want & need to get rid of this 265/75R16 two pretty much brand new hankook dayna pro MT and two big foot which are okay but I was planning on throwing those away anyway so who ever buys the MTs can have them if he wants them... Tires and wheels for sale! Make me an offer.
how much you thinking?
Originally Posted by jeeperzcreeperz
You set yourself up for that one

Originally Posted by dev_daddy
I think it was intended!
yuppers
Old Jan 25, 2012 | 09:23 PM
  #10007  
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From: SLC ut
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
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.

Last edited by xX05Xx; Jan 26, 2012 at 02:50 PM.
Old Jan 25, 2012 | 10:03 PM
  #10008  
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Originally Posted by jmaxj
not a bad idea, i'll measure mine tomorrow then we can compare shaft lengths and see how close they are.
I bet mine is bigger!
Old Jan 25, 2012 | 10:04 PM
  #10009  
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Originally Posted by Desert Rat
I believe Utah requires you have a bumper that is atleast as wide as the origional vehicle track. Should be able to find it in here.

http://publicsafety.utah.gov/safetyi...T%20Manual.pdf
Originally Posted by jeeperzcreeperz
it wont pass saftey if there isnt a bumper on it as wide as your jeep
It has to be the full width of the vehicle and 4.5" in height is what the book states.
Old Jan 25, 2012 | 10:14 PM
  #10010  
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From: Payson, UT
Year: 1993
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Engine: 4.7L I6
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Just thought i'd throw this out there, i got a ticket when I took the plastic end caps off of my bumper, they are pretty strict about that.
Old Jan 25, 2012 | 10:51 PM
  #10011  
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From: Taylorsville, UT
Year: 1999
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Originally Posted by Gorillaxj
Also anyone knwo of a company with srings that extend further then normal unloaded so they wont drop off my bump tube? lol I am sure they would have to be soft spring rate but thats ok... looking for 4.5-5" springs that will add 2-3 " when unloaded LOL, probably don't exsist...

I want them because I am adding 4" of droop to the front and would like a taller spring when droped out...
You can get a little more out of softer springs, but it would not be very significant. I think your best bet is to find a way to keep the coils contained. Such as hard mounting to the axle and having a long *** bump stop up top. But maybe more importantly, how much more droop do you really need? I have shorter limit straps than I could get away with, but it keeps me from having driveline issues With the LP D44 up front, that CV can only go so far when drooping the driver front.
Old Jan 25, 2012 | 10:58 PM
  #10012  
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Originally Posted by FloydXJ
You can get a little more out of softer springs, but it would not be very significant. I think your best bet is to find a way to keep the coils contained. Such as hard mounting to the axle and having a long *** bump stop up top. But maybe more importantly, how much more droop do you really need? I have shorter limit straps than I could get away with, but it keeps me from having driveline issues With the LP D44 up front, that CV can only go so far when drooping the driver front.
I haven't fully decided really, the longer shocks wont be limiting up travel so I Am going to try it out and limit it with straps to where 'i want it. I have extended bumps and plan to extend the tube rather then add the the bucket, the coils are bolted down... Just want to keep the spring seated as long as possible.... I was thinking I may run into U-joint binding before the spring is really any kind of issue.

Does the joint bind? or the yolks touch?
Old Jan 25, 2012 | 10:59 PM
  #10013  
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Originally Posted by customzj73
Ha ha It will be an interesting run that's for sure! Tristin here is some pics of my roof rack, inside demensions are 37" wide by 58" long and 6" deep. 1"x.180 wall sq tube.
How much?

seams like you are making good progress...

Last edited by Gorillaxj; Jan 25, 2012 at 11:36 PM.
Old Jan 25, 2012 | 11:43 PM
  #10014  
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Originally Posted by Gorillaxj
I haven't fully decided really, the longer shocks wont be limiting up travel so I Am going to try it out and limit it with straps to where 'i want it. I have extended bumps and plan to extend the tube rather then add the the bucket, the coils are bolted down... Just want to keep the spring seated as long as possible.... I was thinking I may run into U-joint binding before the spring is really any kind of issue.

Does the joint bind? or the yolks touch?
When I was running the CV up front, the yoke ears were touching even after being shaved. It was actually contacting a little bit and being noisy at ride height. I eventually swapped over to a regular single joint. Since my pinion was nearly horizontal anyway, this was a better set up. With that, the U-joint touches the yoke bolt and nut unless I use an offset joint. It vibrates like crazy with one of those. All these issues have made me appreciate high pinions a lot more
I am running the regular non-offset joint and have the yoke bolt and nut shaved. I can go freeway speeds with the hubs in OK and it is not binding significantly when drooping. That has become my most acceptable set up.

Last edited by FloydXJ; Jan 25, 2012 at 11:45 PM.
Old Jan 25, 2012 | 11:59 PM
  #10015  
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Originally Posted by FloydXJ
When I was running the CV up front, the yoke ears were touching even after being shaved. It was actually contacting a little bit and being noisy at ride height. I eventually swapped over to a regular single joint. Since my pinion was nearly horizontal anyway, this was a better set up. With that, the U-joint touches the yoke bolt and nut unless I use an offset joint. It vibrates like crazy with one of those. All these issues have made me appreciate high pinions a lot more
I am running the regular non-offset joint and have the yoke bolt and nut shaved. I can go freeway speeds with the hubs in OK and it is not binding significantly when drooping. That has become my most acceptable set up.
huh, I have had no issues at all so far. never touches...
Old Jan 26, 2012 | 12:21 AM
  #10016  
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Originally Posted by Gorillaxj
huh, I have had no issues at all so far. never touches...
Weird, I know. My pinion angle and transfercase are different from yours - maybe slight differences there made my set up a PITA for whatever reason. All is well for now, though
Old Jan 26, 2012 | 12:39 AM
  #10017  
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Originally Posted by FloydXJ
Weird, I know. My pinion angle and transfercase are different from yours - maybe slight differences there made my set up a PITA for whatever reason. All is well for now, though
Very true.. now I am interested to how far I can go before the yolks touch lol
Old Jan 26, 2012 | 01:37 AM
  #10018  
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Originally Posted by xX05Xx
Tires & wheels or just tires or just wheels?
just tires.
Old Jan 26, 2012 | 08:27 AM
  #10019  
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Year: 1989
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How much for tires and rims??
Old Jan 26, 2012 | 11:05 AM
  #10020  
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Year: 1993
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Engine: 5.2 V8, Dual cold air, dual batts, E-fan, Sanden OBA
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Originally Posted by Gorillaxj

How much?

seams like you are making good progress...
150, I would be making better progress if I had some more cash ha- that's why I'm tryin to sell my jeep stuff...
I don't know who is needing tires, but I have a bunch of 33's and 35's with 6 lug and 5 lug rims if anyone is interested..



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