Northern Utah BS thread
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Joined: Jan 2011
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From: fairview utah
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by Gorillaxj
With alloy shafts and the bigger joints yes.
(It will be with a solid 1 piece alloy shaft instead of the 2 peice)
Depends on the brand of joints. I run the same size joints in my D44 and have no problems... the 760X joint is the one to get (fits the shafts with the bigger u-joints)
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From: vernal, utah
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
my friend bought a cherokee that has had every possible wrong thing done to it... cut out the rear wheel wells way past the welds, lifted on blocks. but it did make it up some rocks... manual too, made me kinda jealous
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From: Price ut
Year: 91
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by Gorillaxj
With alloy shafts and the bigger joints yes.
(It will be with a solid 1 piece alloy shaft instead of the 2 peice)
Depends on the brand of joints. I run the same size joints in my D44 and have no problems... the 760X joint is the one to get (fits the shafts with the bigger u-joints)
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From: Salt Lake City, UT
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
how long can i expect my front end to hold up with 33's? i know i need to upgrade to one piece shafts, and plan on doing so, but for the time being (as in, i'm broke, have 33's, want to do a BB and cut fenders so i can play) i'm going to just lock the disco coupler and do away with the vacuum crap.
i plan to purchase Ten Factory shafts next tax time unless someone has a suggestion thats just as strong for the same or less money.
i plan to purchase Ten Factory shafts next tax time unless someone has a suggestion thats just as strong for the same or less money.
you can run the disco axle with the disco coupler locked as long as you leave the diff open. don't install a locker or you'll need more than 10 spare shafts.
but in reality, i'd just grab a new front axle from the junkyard or someone parting out a newer jeep or any renix with anti lock axles. then just swap them out. it's almost just as easy to do.
but in reality, i'd just grab a new front axle from the junkyard or someone parting out a newer jeep or any renix with anti lock axles. then just swap them out. it's almost just as easy to do.
you can upgrade to a one piece shaft, but then you would have to remove the carrier so you can install a seal at the pumpkin. you would also have to remove the inner axle seal from the axle tube to fit the one piece shaft.
so in all reality, it would be just as easy, if not easier to just get rid of that disco axle all together and end up with a solid one piece axle with the larger u-joints. then you could even go one step further and replace the 297 axle joints with the stronger 760 joints and be done with it.
you could very well upgrade to chromo shafts, but with 33's, it's pointless, really.
so in all reality, it would be just as easy, if not easier to just get rid of that disco axle all together and end up with a solid one piece axle with the larger u-joints. then you could even go one step further and replace the 297 axle joints with the stronger 760 joints and be done with it.
you could very well upgrade to chromo shafts, but with 33's, it's pointless, really.
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From: Price ut
Year: 91
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by Gorillaxj
based on what I have read I would say no.
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From: Salt Lake City, UT
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I have a locked front diff, I have locking hubs, I run my hubs locked any time I am going off pavement for the entire time, weather thats a dirt road, a trail or I am even in 2wd until I get to a point where i need 4wheel drive, then i just shift into 4wd. I can drive on the pavement this way as well in 2wd. being locked up front wont change anything (other then a little noise/possible tire scrub) in 2wd, and will handle mostly Just like it does now.
There should be no reason you can't drive on a dirt road in 2wd or 4wd with a locked front diff, you may need to adjust driveling habits but it should only help
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From: Price ut
Year: 91
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by Gorillaxj
I am a little confused by the question...
I have a locked front diff, I have locking hubs, I run my hubs locked any time I am going off pavement for the entire time, weather thats a dirt road, a trail or I am even in 2wd, I can drive on the pavement this way as well in 2wd. being locked up front wont change anything (other then a little noise/possible tire scrub) in 2wd, and will handle mostly Just like it does now.
There should be no reason you can't drive on a dirt road in 2wd or 4wd with a locked front diff, you may need to adjust driveling habits but it should only help
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From: vernal, utah
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
my dana 30 has a vacuum hose coming out of the diff but i have 1 piece shafts. does this mean someone changed the guts out some time in the past? or whats up with the hose?
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From: Price ut
Year: 91
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by fathan16
also if anyone needs 3.54 dana 44 gears with carrier or a chrysler 8.25 27 spline i think i'll have that out in a couple weeks.
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From: Salt Lake City, UT
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I went with a cheaper locker because I can run a lock-right, and hydraulic assist for less then a selectable locker. I was going to get hydraulic assist anyway. So I couldn't turn down the deal on the lock-right.