Originally Posted by cruiser54

Tell me how you checked the CPS.

Like this?

Renix CPS Testing and Adjusting


Renix CPSs have to put out a strong enough signal to the ECU so that it will provide spark.
Most tests for the CPS suggest checking it for an ohms value. This is unreliable and can cause some wasted time and aggravation in your diagnosis of a no-start issue as the CPS will test good when in fact it is bad.
The problem with the ohms test is you can have the correct amount of resistance through the CPS but it isn’t generating enough voltage to trigger the ECU to provide spark.
Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS, crank the engine over. It won’t start with the CPS disconnected.
You should get a reading of .5 AC volts.
If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That’s a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from Napa or the dealer.
Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It’s worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off.
A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out the upper mounting hole, or slot it so the CPS bracket rests on the bell housing when pushed down. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts.



Revised 07-30-2012

Originally Posted by cruiser54

Now we're getting somewhere. The fuel pump ballast resistor is a white ceramic thingy mounted on the driver's side inner fender near the air cleaner. It's about half inch wide, three inches long and an off white color. Has a wire plugged into each end. Should be 12 volts or so on one end and 10 volts on the other end when running.

Originally Posted by Tobyxj

Tap thes with a screwdriver I can bring a Ecu out so you can test to see if that's it

Originally Posted by Tobyxj

When's good for you ? Do you know where it's located ?

Originally Posted by Mr Talon

I hope to make it to the nest next time.

Originally Posted by cruiser54

I suggest unplugging EVERY electrical connection in the engine bay you can find, whether engine related or not, and spraying it out with a good electronics cleaner, visually inspecting the terminals making sure they haven't retracted into the plastic holder, and then plugging it back together. There's a critical 10-pin connector for the front lighting system located in front of the air cleaner and behind the left headlight assembly. Don't miss that one. Also be sure that the connectors to the ballast resistor mounted near the air cleaner housing are clean and tight.
ALL of the relays should be removed, the terminals wire-brushed until shiny, and the receptacles sprayed out with contact cleaner. Then plug them back in. I do this on every Renix Jeep I purchase or work on for someone else.
Revised 07/23/2012

Originally Posted by cruiser54

Pay close attention to the 2nd relay back from the front. Even swap it with another one.

This will take some work but we'll get it.

Ever get it wet up under the dash?