Northern Utah BS thread #2
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,326
Likes: 0
From: Huricane, Utah
Year: 1994 Ford Bronco
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 351 W
haha no worries, just an afternoon of nuts and bolts!
I want the flares, any way your coming to SLC any time soon?
Same thing as always, D30's are ok up to a 35... with alloys they can be pretty reliable. but for the same cost as re-gearing, locking , alloys, beefed up axle mounts steering ect... for the same/less amount of money you COULD have a better axle, with a bigger ring and pinion, thicker/bigger diameter tube, bigger ball joints/king pins, bigger/better brakes, REAL cross over/hy-steer steering, bigger axle shafts, lock out hubs, serviceable bearings(or uni-bearings if you prefer), a perfect pinion angle for your lift height ect... it all comes down to how YOU drive, what YOU want to spend the money on, and YOUR skills to get the job done. also depends on weather its worth it to YOU and what tire size YOU want... I love my waggys, never gave me a problem (fingers crossed) lots of people have success with them, same with d30's, d60's ect... some will always love one thing and talk bad about another. if your going to build an axle a D30 is a waist IMHO, wheel it until its a problem, then replace it... I love my locking hubs, steering, and brake upgrades over the D30 enough to make the swap worth it alone. Just my opinion, and opinions are all your going to find from people. on the topic as so much of the choice depends on you.
As I have said before, I wouldn't worry about it unless your snapping shafts or at a 35" tire and an aggressive driver, unless your having to rebuild your current setup to the point money is already being spent on them and your want bigger for w/e reason (which is why I swapped mine)
most people say in a D30, or D44 the U-joint is the first to go, QUALITY u-joints are a must, cheap 8-11$ autozone joints will only hold up to so much abuse, they are not designed to take what we do. they are made to get you to the grocery store. the nicer 30$ + spicer/off road joints are worht the money IMO, cheap insurance that could cost you a shaft + time on a trail.
I want the flares, any way your coming to SLC any time soon?
Same thing as always, D30's are ok up to a 35... with alloys they can be pretty reliable. but for the same cost as re-gearing, locking , alloys, beefed up axle mounts steering ect... for the same/less amount of money you COULD have a better axle, with a bigger ring and pinion, thicker/bigger diameter tube, bigger ball joints/king pins, bigger/better brakes, REAL cross over/hy-steer steering, bigger axle shafts, lock out hubs, serviceable bearings(or uni-bearings if you prefer), a perfect pinion angle for your lift height ect... it all comes down to how YOU drive, what YOU want to spend the money on, and YOUR skills to get the job done. also depends on weather its worth it to YOU and what tire size YOU want... I love my waggys, never gave me a problem (fingers crossed) lots of people have success with them, same with d30's, d60's ect... some will always love one thing and talk bad about another. if your going to build an axle a D30 is a waist IMHO, wheel it until its a problem, then replace it... I love my locking hubs, steering, and brake upgrades over the D30 enough to make the swap worth it alone. Just my opinion, and opinions are all your going to find from people. on the topic as so much of the choice depends on you.
As I have said before, I wouldn't worry about it unless your snapping shafts or at a 35" tire and an aggressive driver, unless your having to rebuild your current setup to the point money is already being spent on them and your want bigger for w/e reason (which is why I swapped mine)
most people say in a D30, or D44 the U-joint is the first to go, QUALITY u-joints are a must, cheap 8-11$ autozone joints will only hold up to so much abuse, they are not designed to take what we do. they are made to get you to the grocery store. the nicer 30$ + spicer/off road joints are worht the money IMO, cheap insurance that could cost you a shaft + time on a trail.
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,930
Likes: 0
From: herriman
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
haha no worries, just an afternoon of nuts and bolts!
I want the flares, any way your coming to SLC any time soon?
Same thing as always, D30's are ok up to a 35... with alloys they can be pretty reliable. but for the same cost as re-gearing, locking , alloys, beefed up axle mounts steering ect... for the same/less amount of money you COULD have a better axle, with a bigger ring and pinion, thicker/bigger diameter tube, bigger ball joints/king pins, bigger/better brakes, REAL cross over/hy-steer steering, bigger axle shafts, lock out hubs, serviceable bearings(or uni-bearings if you prefer), a perfect pinion angle for your lift height ect... it all comes down to how YOU drive, what YOU want to spend the money on, and YOUR skills to get the job done. also depends on weather its worth it to YOU and what tire size YOU want... I love my waggys, never gave me a problem (fingers crossed) lots of people have success with them, same with d30's, d60's ect... some will always love one thing and talk bad about another. if your going to build an axle a D30 is a waist IMHO, wheel it until its a problem, then replace it... I love my locking hubs, steering, and brake upgrades over the D30 enough to make the swap worth it alone. Just my opinion, and opinions are all your going to find from people. on the topic as so much of the choice depends on you.
As I have said before, I wouldn't worry about it unless your snapping shafts or at a 35" tire and an aggressive driver, unless your having to rebuild your current setup to the point money is already being spent on them and your want bigger for w/e reason (which is why I swapped mine)
most people say in a D30, or D44 the U-joint is the first to go, QUALITY u-joints are a must, cheap 8-11$ autozone joints will only hold up to so much abuse, they are not designed to take what we do. they are made to get you to the grocery store. the nicer 30$ + spicer/off road joints are worht the money IMO, cheap insurance that could cost you a shaft + time on a trail.
But is it really worth the money to put a locker in it or is that a waist of money.
I have been looking at 44 waggys as well cause I can't go any bigger without modifying my flares and stuff for the road.
But I do know I can run waggys for sure but at this time and moment I think you made a really good point about if it.
I will just have to save the money a bit and buy it as I go and when I get it all gathered up I will do the swap and know that I will be happy with what I got.
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,968
Likes: 0
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
The D30 isn't holding you back...
An open front diff and then the 33's along with gearing (down fall of a manual) but no point in getting 35's until yours are worn out(and you feel the need) the locker will change a ton at how capable your vehicle will be, no arguing that a front locker is the BEST upgrade you could do at this time. is it a waist? not unless your going to do an axle swap soon... in a year or so.... if you buy one used (like I did, or Ryan is going to) then your not out much $$, and can most likely get it all back when you sell yours off when doing the swap... or maybe you'll find you never to.....
33's locked rear and an open front got me threw Pritchett Canyon with no damage, no struggle. (Tom as well)
Locked the front and now everything grabs 10X better then before. bigger tires give you more belly clearance and a leg up on ledges, but once the ledge is bigger then the tire a 31,33,35 are all about the same as you still have to walk a vertical wall to some degree, Which comes back to traction (lockers) and gearing...
An open front diff and then the 33's along with gearing (down fall of a manual) but no point in getting 35's until yours are worn out(and you feel the need) the locker will change a ton at how capable your vehicle will be, no arguing that a front locker is the BEST upgrade you could do at this time. is it a waist? not unless your going to do an axle swap soon... in a year or so.... if you buy one used (like I did, or Ryan is going to) then your not out much $$, and can most likely get it all back when you sell yours off when doing the swap... or maybe you'll find you never to.....
33's locked rear and an open front got me threw Pritchett Canyon with no damage, no struggle. (Tom as well)
Locked the front and now everything grabs 10X better then before. bigger tires give you more belly clearance and a leg up on ledges, but once the ledge is bigger then the tire a 31,33,35 are all about the same as you still have to walk a vertical wall to some degree, Which comes back to traction (lockers) and gearing...
Last edited by Gorillaxj; Feb 7, 2013 at 12:20 AM.
Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 188
Likes: 1
From: North Salt Lake Utah
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Im still a noob when it comes to serious wheeling, so take it easy on my old butt, LOL, What would be a wiser, in your opinions, upgrade to do first? Lockers, or lift?
I am currently on 235 70 15s and 2 inch puck lift add a leaf rear....I know a MT is a good upgrade as well, you are only as good as your tires pretty much....
pic for giggles
I am currently on 235 70 15s and 2 inch puck lift add a leaf rear....I know a MT is a good upgrade as well, you are only as good as your tires pretty much....
pic for giggles
Last edited by SiRed91; Feb 7, 2013 at 07:01 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,366
Likes: 0
From: Spanish Fork, Utah
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Renix 4.0L
I saay lockers. And the reason is, I've had more fun I'ln my stock locked xj than the big dumb one. Its awesome outwheeling built rigs with a stock locked xj. But that's my opinion and what id do. But I also beat the **** out of things 
so do the logical- lift and Tires
so do the logical- lift and Tires
Last edited by dev_daddy; Feb 7, 2013 at 07:27 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,703
Likes: 0
From: Utardiland
Year: whats left of a 91
Model: Cherokee
Engine: one that makes noise
So the team Naxja/petty cash 4643 xj had a solid run and full finish in the EMC today. Richard and cal and the guys did an excellent job. If I read the points right the got a 3rd place finish in class and 11th over all. But ill find out for sure in an hour.
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,930
Likes: 0
From: herriman
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Sweet have,they posted videos yet
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 275
Likes: 0
Model: Cherokee
Im still a noob when it comes to serious wheeling, so take it easy on my old butt, LOL, What would be a wiser, in your opinions, upgrade to do first? Lockers, or lift?
I am currently on 235 70 15s and 2 inch puck lift add a leaf rear....I know a MT is a good upgrade as well, you are only as good as your tires pretty much....
pic for giggles
I am currently on 235 70 15s and 2 inch puck lift add a leaf rear....I know a MT is a good upgrade as well, you are only as good as your tires pretty much....
pic for giggles
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,968
Likes: 0
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
yep.
Honestly it depends on your wheeling style, what you do when off-road and what you want the end result to be. where d you struggle now? belly clearance? Traction? ect...
I would honestly do armor first, sliders, gas tank skid, t/case skid and maybe front bumper first(buy used, can find pretty cheap). Then lift/lock it. lift it based on the tire size you want. Try and do it once, Changing things later is $$ and a headache. I have never felt more comfortable offroading from one mod then after I put armor on. when hitting things It is more of a comforting experience, and not having to worry about beating the body lol
Nice!
Im still a noob when it comes to serious wheeling, so take it easy on my old butt, LOL, What would be a wiser, in your opinions, upgrade to do first? Lockers, or lift?
I am currently on 235 70 15s and 2 inch puck lift add a leaf rear....I know a MT is a good upgrade as well, you are only as good as your tires pretty much....
pic for giggles
I am currently on 235 70 15s and 2 inch puck lift add a leaf rear....I know a MT is a good upgrade as well, you are only as good as your tires pretty much....
pic for giggles
I would honestly do armor first, sliders, gas tank skid, t/case skid and maybe front bumper first(buy used, can find pretty cheap). Then lift/lock it. lift it based on the tire size you want. Try and do it once, Changing things later is $$ and a headache. I have never felt more comfortable offroading from one mod then after I put armor on. when hitting things It is more of a comforting experience, and not having to worry about beating the body lol
Nice!
