You gotta strap it to the direction it needs to go.. In my case i had to pull the axle forward to get it to line up so I used the bumper. since you are only doing one arm at a time I dont see it moving too much as it will still have 4 mounts holding it in. when do you plan on doing this? I can come help this weekend if you would like. I still need to do my upper bushings too, they are still in my freezer lol.

Oh buy the way put all your bushings in the freezer, makes them easier to get in

 

I can swing by Sunday afternoon if you want too

 

I didnt use a strap when I put my arms in I actually just used a diamond scissor jack the ones that come in cars and mini vans, to push the axle away from the body. Made it so much easier.

 

The more the merrier. It's in the air now.

Tomorrow I will take a look again with the help of Stitch702. O'Reilly has a pair of Moog UCA bushings for $16. Might pick those up tomorrow.

 

I don't see how that could possibly work? I see way to much room here...

 

I use it with great success. I cant remember where I pit it exactly but its right by the upper arms and axle

 

Lighting sucks since my battery is almost dead on my phone. So I used my rock lights

 

Yeah let me know what time to swing on by I'm free until my basketball game at 11pm.

 

damn K!

 

These are custom springs. With a custom arch due custom short control arms

 

I always did my lower control arms first. Then when trying to set the pinion to put the upper arms in, I would have a floor jack lifting the axle under the pumpkin, then use a ratchet strap on the bar between the front wheels of the jack, over the cast area between the yoke and the pumpkin...housing the pinion gear...if that sounds correct. Mine would always lean forward and I would always have to pull the pinion down. And that always seemed to work.

My two cents.

Joe- pull me over next time...flash the lights and say what's up!

Jon, glad you like the light mounts. LEDs win!

 

Haha next time I will!

 

Ok so I think I'm just gonna say F it and go with a long arm kit and do the sye and drive shaft... But now I'm not sure how high I wanna go... Pretty sure I'm going with IRO but can't decide between the 4" an the 5.5" (5.5 = +$40 more than 4"
Just curious how much the bigger lift makes the brown eye pucker when taking some crazy stuff.

... AND GO

 

When both lifts are side by side, I doubt youd get more than 3/4 to 1" of actuall differnce between them. My 6.5" long arm is barely 1" taller than your typical 4.5" short arm lift, Like Joes, Roberts, even Jon's add leaf kit.

As far as the off camber goes, you'll do just fine with the 5.5" lift...the real factor you need to be worried about is if you buy the smaller lift and a couple months down the road you want the bigger one to run bigger tires, etc... you've already spent your cash and now you regret buying the smaller lift. IF this is not you, then go for the cheaper/smaller one.

My$.02

 

Plz let us know how this goes.
I read horror storys about auto part stores selling ball joints that did not work, even though all the part numbers match oem replacement.

I was thinking about sticking with spicer ball joints from 4x4center. They mostly carry jeep parts and install what they sell. So i assume if it does not fit, why are they selling it. Plus you cant go wrong with spicer.

Unlike the local dipsht autopart stores tht look parts up in there little computer and just go with the part# provided. But we know theres more options out there.