What did you do to your XJ today??
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 6,989
Likes: 4
From: Oak Harbor, WA.
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter RENIX I-6, DIY Cold Air Intake, 2.5 FM Exhaust, 3 Core Radiator
Swapped out the Master Cylinder. Brakes are still broke. 


Ordered a Power Booster. Will put that in tonight. Running out of time. Elbe is this weekend.
I did get the Jeep all washed, paint touched up on armor plating, inside wiped down and vacuumed out.



Ordered a Power Booster. Will put that in tonight. Running out of time. Elbe is this weekend.
I did get the Jeep all washed, paint touched up on armor plating, inside wiped down and vacuumed out.

Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 510
Likes: 0
From: Oak Harbor, Wa
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Renix
Originally Posted by bothellbikes
What are you putting back underneath it?
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,562
Likes: 3
From: Spanaway
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by 1987XJ
Disc brake conversion
locked and ready for Elbe
ATTACH]116027
locked and ready for Elbe
ATTACH]116027
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 6,989
Likes: 4
From: Oak Harbor, WA.
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter RENIX I-6, DIY Cold Air Intake, 2.5 FM Exhaust, 3 Core Radiator
My boy has the patience of Jobe. He has been "Rat Holing" the pieces to put this axle together like this for over a year. What better place than Elbe for the Maiden Voyage!!!
I seafoamed it. I'm pretty sure its never had it done. Now here's the weird thing, when I was going the vac pines it was smoking and bogging like it was supposed to. I then let it sit for 10 minutes then started it up. No problems starting and no smoke. I then let it idle for 5 minutes, still no smoke. I then took it for a drive letting the rpms hit 3000, and no smoke! I thought it was odd because I thought it would be smoking a ton! And we used a little more than half a can for the vac lines... Any input?
Originally Posted by OleBlue
OBA done!!! Works like a charm, airs up my 35x13.5 from 0-33 in 2 minutes.
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,842
Likes: 0
From: Woodinville, Bothell and Marysville Washington
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0
Originally Posted by Scott0821
I seafoamed it. I'm pretty sure its never had it done. Now here's the weird thing, when I was going the vac pines it was smoking and bogging like it was supposed to. I then let it sit for 10 minutes then started it up. No problems starting and no smoke. I then let it idle for 5 minutes, still no smoke. I then took it for a drive letting the rpms hit 3000, and no smoke! I thought it was odd because I thought it would be smoking a ton! And we used a little more than half a can for the vac lines... Any input?
guess your engine was cleaner than you thought lol
Originally Posted by OleBlue
no lol, you still have your heat
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 6,989
Likes: 4
From: Oak Harbor, WA.
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter RENIX I-6, DIY Cold Air Intake, 2.5 FM Exhaust, 3 Core Radiator
Brakes are still hosed!!!

:brickwal l:
I swapped in a new Master Cylinder. Then, I swapped in a new Power Booster. I also checked the One Way Check Valve and vacuum hose to the booster and all was good there. There is no visible fluid leaking anywhere. Brake pedal feels solid with engine off after bleeding. I get good fluid shooting out at all 4 bleeder screws while bleeding. Normal use with the engine running causes a spongy feeling and the brake dash idiot light to come on intermittently. I can "pump the pedal" and get a better feeling pedal and better stopping but, normal pressing of the pedal causes it to go clear to the floor. Also on a panic "one press" of the pedal, it goes clear to the floor and the Jeep gradually slows down. I've never seen anything like this with any other vehicle I have ever owned. Brakes are a simple hydraulic system. I really don't get it. Where in the "F" is my brake pedal pressure going????? Next step wil be to actually pull the rear drums off and see if I have a rear wheel cylinder seaping inside and the fluid just isn't making it outside where I can see it leaking. I'm also going to bleed the proportioning valve. I just read about that online. I didn't even know my proportioning valve on my Jeep had a bleeder screw in it.
A very pissed off Buck, signing off for now.


:brickwal l:
I swapped in a new Master Cylinder. Then, I swapped in a new Power Booster. I also checked the One Way Check Valve and vacuum hose to the booster and all was good there. There is no visible fluid leaking anywhere. Brake pedal feels solid with engine off after bleeding. I get good fluid shooting out at all 4 bleeder screws while bleeding. Normal use with the engine running causes a spongy feeling and the brake dash idiot light to come on intermittently. I can "pump the pedal" and get a better feeling pedal and better stopping but, normal pressing of the pedal causes it to go clear to the floor. Also on a panic "one press" of the pedal, it goes clear to the floor and the Jeep gradually slows down. I've never seen anything like this with any other vehicle I have ever owned. Brakes are a simple hydraulic system. I really don't get it. Where in the "F" is my brake pedal pressure going????? Next step wil be to actually pull the rear drums off and see if I have a rear wheel cylinder seaping inside and the fluid just isn't making it outside where I can see it leaking. I'm also going to bleed the proportioning valve. I just read about that online. I didn't even know my proportioning valve on my Jeep had a bleeder screw in it.
A very pissed off Buck, signing off for now.








