Pacific Northwest Washington, Oregon, Alaska

Project Super 30

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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 06:06 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by BuckB91XJ
Right, buying stronger shafts and buying a stronger carrier/locker and doing nothing to the axle housing and then paying somebody to put it all to together for you, now that makes a Super 30, right?? Thats a bunch of

No thanks. Those fancy chromoly axles, bigger U-joints and after market lockers won't do $hit for you if your stocker housing bends or breaks. I think I'd rather learn from my own trial and error and from talking with brother wheelers, who I know build and wheel their own Jeeps, about where weak points are and coming up with "(Homebrew)" upgrades that have worked for them and build my own "(Homebrew)" Super 30. Which is what I called it from the start, "MY Homebrew Super 30 that is my own design not some Super 30 kit that some company designed and anybody can have that has enough money to buy it. Because we all know here on Cherokee Forum that real Jeeps are built not bought. I've seen D30s that are built right stand up to 37s just fine. I will never have tires bigger than 35s on my jeep so paying the rediculous amount of cash required to have a D44 custom built for me isn't worth it. So you put your idea of a Super 30 on your jeep and I will put my idea of a Super 30 on my Jeep. then, let's go wheeling together sometime and see whose jeep can do more and still stay together. the guys i wheel with and I always carry plenty of trail spares so we won't leave you stranded on the trail.
sorry but you cant see my sarcasm i was giving you through the internet. build how ever you want. i have a rubi44 tnt truss and arb with superior shafts and ctms. work for 35's and trailready beadlocks. my second post was pure sarcasm that i totally failed at.
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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 09:30 PM
  #17  
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I have a super dana 30.It is mine and I think it works super good...lock right 410 gears trussed with yukon cromo shafts with yukon cromo super joints(they use no bearings)wj knuckles larger rotors with jeep liberty double piston calipers(they are huge) upgraded moog ball joints life time off road warranty......Just let me know when you want me over and we will get it all done...

Last edited by popcancherokee; Jan 17, 2012 at 09:32 PM.
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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 11:24 AM
  #18  
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I know you dont wanna go 44 but my 3/4 ton front 44 is basically stock with alloy usa x joints, arb, 4.88s, diff cover, hydro assist and i havent had any problems breaking shafts yet
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Old Jan 19, 2012 | 12:10 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by xjbeadlocks
sorry but you cant see my sarcasm i was giving you through the internet. build how ever you want. i have a rubi44 tnt truss and arb with superior shafts and ctms. work for 35's and trailready beadlocks. my second post was pure sarcasm that i totally failed at.

Sorry I got Snippy at you Dude. It's all good...and thanks for telling me what you did to upgrade your axle. I'm still information gathering....okay I'll call it what it is. stealing evrybody elses upgrades and tying them all into my axle to hopefully make it strng enough to stand up to my abuse. The Rubi D44 idea did cross my mind but those things are really hard to come by around here...especially for what I'm willing to pay.
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Old Jan 22, 2012 | 05:05 PM
  #20  
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Here is the next round of pics of my, new to me, 94 non-disco HP D30 housing. I stripped everything off/out but the balljoints. I had to drill the cotter pins out of the uppers. They were rusted in place. I'm thinking the balljoints may have to come out too and I can get a set of lifetime warranty HD balljoints of some sort. I also had to break three of the lower shock bolts and grind the 4th one off to get the shocks off the axle. So far, just really rusty hardware. The axle itself just has surface rust. The upper balljoints appear to hold grease and all 4 of them are really tight. Does anybody know of another check I can do to verify them good to keep? I don't want to buy a bunch of extra stuff I don't need at this point. I haven't broken my 95 Cherokee non-disco D30 axles with the bigger U-joints or my ZJ tierod. That is why I am not buying Chromo axle shafts, super knuckle joints or 1 ton steering componants at this time. I will be running my 33s for awhile. I may have problems when I get my 35s but, I'll cross that bridge when I come to it. I am a firm believer in the "If it aint broke, don't fix it" concept. I am also a firm believer in the "If the OEM came up with something better in a later year of the same or a similar rig, get it" concept. So, I will be doing the WJ knuckle/KJ double piston caliper upgrade.

Last edited by BuckB91XJ; Jul 12, 2012 at 05:56 PM.
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Old Jan 22, 2012 | 05:14 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by popcancherokee
I have a super dana 30.It is mine and I think it works super good...lock right 410 gears trussed with yukon cromo shafts with yukon cromo super joints(they use no bearings)wj knuckles larger rotors with jeep liberty double piston calipers(they are huge) upgraded moog ball joints life time off road warranty......Just let me know when you want me over and we will get it all done...

Dave, what year WJ knucles and larger rotors did you use? Did they come off of a V-8 or 4.0 litre Grand or does it matter? Also, what year Liberty did you get the bigger double piston brake calipers off of? After switching to the WJ knuckles will my XJ draglink and ZJ tierod still work or will I have to get aftermarket 1 ton steering? Will I still be able to attach my swaybar links? Ive been told and read that for certain WJ knuckles it lifts the tierod to a sorts Hi-Steer upgrade and the stock XJ swaybar links have to be cut off the axle. I don't want to lose my ability to use my swaybar so please let me know. If I can't use the WJ knuckles and keep my swaybar, I won't get the WJ Knuckles.
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Old Jan 22, 2012 | 05:19 PM
  #22  
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I'm going to get those whimpy LCA axle mounts cut off and the axle cleaned up for welding on the new ones, today. More pics to follow.
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Old Jan 22, 2012 | 11:25 PM
  #23  
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It is looking nice! I can't remember, but was your last axle a center disconnect axle?
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 03:43 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by AMG
It is looking nice! I can't remember, but was your last axle a center disconnect axle?
Yep, my original axle that came in the front of my 91 is a center disconnect. Wimpy Wimpy Wimpy...LOL!!!!!
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 03:44 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by AMG
It is looking nice! I can't remember, but was your last axle a center disconnect axle?
It's good to hear from you Austin. How goes the war?
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 12:57 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by BuckB91XJ
It's good to hear from you Austin. How goes the war?
I guess the war is going good. I am enjoying being back in KY! I am trying to find a job right now. I just applied for a EMT-Firefighting job, and I hope I get it!
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 02:14 AM
  #27  
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Please post pics of "trussing", "gusseting", when your done......I'd like to know where the weak parts are befor I find out how you did.....
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 02:21 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by rossi
Please post pics of "trussing", "gusseting", when your done......I'd like to know where the weak parts are befor I find out how you did.....
Will do Bud. I am still cutting off wimpy OEM LCA mounts and cleaning the axle up in prep for welding. Lots of old paint, road grime and some surface rust. My good Buddy Dave (popcancherokee) will be doing the welding as my expertise is electronics.
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 03:21 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by BuckB91XJ

Will do Bud. I am still cutting off wimpy OEM LCA mounts and cleaning the axle up in prep for welding. Lots of old paint, road grime and some surface rust. My good Buddy Dave (popcancherokee) will be doing the welding as my expertise is electronics.
Ha, and yet you still suck at electronics
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 04:37 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by assetts91
Ha, and yet you still suck at electronics
And that coming from a guy who sucks at life...LMAO!!!!!
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