Well I bought a XJ just to mess with and go wheeling. It has a brake issue, when I bought it, had next to zero brakes. I tried to bleed them first and that didn't work. So I took the master cylinder and brake booster off my roommates xj parts rig, since the brakes worked on it, and put that on mine. I bought a bleeder setup you connect to your air compressor, attempted to bleed the brakes again, and I got it so theres air bubbles in the line anymore when I bleed the fronts, but the rears the air never stops. I keep the reservoir filled. Yesterday bought new rear wheel cylinders and still have the air bubbles. I took the brake line section that makes the T for the rears off the parts rig and swapped it over, and still have bubbles. So I'm hoping someone has had this issue before or maybe is willing to come over and help fix it.

So to recap I've done the following:

Swapped over working brake booster/MC
Replaced rear wheel cylinders
Swapped over brake line T part

I'm in the process of attempting to learn to change drums shoes as well so maybe if I can get someone to come over and help with the brakes they will know how to changes the shoes and make sure I am doing it right.

Thanks for all the help, maybe someone will help me and convince me to keep the jeep

 

There is a good write up on changing our shoes in the write ups section. I know that when you bleed you need to bleed the brake lines farthest from the cylinder first and then work your way up to the front one. Did you try that? I dont know that it will help with the stopping but it will probably help with the air bubble problem.

 

yeah im following the drum walkthrough but not sure if its right, because I can't get some parts to fit like how they are in the pics. And I've tried to bleed them furthest away and work my way forward but doesn't help any.

 

Look for leaks, holes in your lines.

 

well there are no leaks. and are the brake lines that are bolted down to the axle soft rubber lines? i thought they where hardlines. I've swapped the rear rubber line that has the T part right in front of the rear axle towards the front of the jeep

 

there should be a rubber line on the rear going from the frame to the junction block that is bolted to the rear axle. then hard lines going from that to each wheel cylinder.

when you changed out the booster/master cylinder, did you also change out the differential block/proportioning valve that is just under the m/c? if not, that could be your problem.

your best bet would be to do a dual diaphragm upgrade if yours is the early model single unit.

 

differential block/proportioning valve that is the part under the MC that all the brake lines hook to correct? I didn't swap that part out since I figured I didn't have brakes before I swapped any parts it was gonna be the other parts. I will attempt to install that part as well

 

check seals hard lines and if the fittings are all tight. if ya need some help pm. i live in yakima

 

awesome deal. Imma recheck all the spots. Im swapping the valve thing over and then gonna check the connections and try the pressure bleeder again and see if its still bubbly or solid