Yet another renix cooling questions
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,322
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From: Edmonton
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
there is such a thing as a failed thermostat out of the box. i went through a couple cheapies before i coughed up the dough and went to a mopar stat. all was well after that...just don't buy a Stant. Sorry man wish i could help more...
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Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2013
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From: Arizona, West Valley
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
From: Arizona, West Valley
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Also what are you guys thoughts on plastic vs all aluminum. I know aluminum is better but really how much better. Also is it worth the dough going to a 3 core?
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Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,322
Likes: 1
From: Edmonton
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Good to know. I think I am just going to bite the bullet and get a new rad (open system) and go new EVERYTHING. Got to save my pennies.
Also what are you guys thoughts on plastic vs all aluminum. I know aluminum is better but really how much better. Also is it worth the dough going to a 3 core?
Also what are you guys thoughts on plastic vs all aluminum. I know aluminum is better but really how much better. Also is it worth the dough going to a 3 core?
Good to know. I think I am just going to bite the bullet and get a new rad (open system) and go new EVERYTHING. Got to save my pennies.
Also what are you guys thoughts on plastic vs all aluminum. I know aluminum is better but really how much better. Also is it worth the dough going to a 3 core?
Also what are you guys thoughts on plastic vs all aluminum. I know aluminum is better but really how much better. Also is it worth the dough going to a 3 core?
Also, production aluminum radiators tend to have crimped-on plastic side tanks. As far as I'm concerned, those radiators are only fit for scrap. If you can't TIG on proper metal side tanks, I'm not going to buy aluminum. I'll go with brazed copper/brass parts instead. I've used Modine and Performance Radiator to good effect, and I've heard a lot of good about the CSF units from DPG Offroad.
Aluminum is used because it's cheaper than copper, crimps are used because it's a cheaper process than soldering, brazing, or welding. There are times when "cheap" is the best way to go - for instance, it's "cheaper" to roll threads on screws, in bulk, than it would be to cut them. This is to your advantage - since it also functions as a cold-forging process and gives a significantly stronger thread. "Cheap" = "Good"
However, a pressure join (even down around 13-16psig,) sealed with an O-ring, and retained with crimp tabs - and hot, to boot - is a very bad idea. "Cheap" != "Good"
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
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From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
Put a shroud on its there to make the fan pull air thru radiator with out them they will pull air from under hood at slow speeds instead of thru front grill a 91 radiator has the hole for fan switch if you wanna go that route.
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
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From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
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Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 61
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From: Arizona, West Valley
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Well that's that, replaced the lower hose and shroud. Still overheating when I hammer on the throttle. Getting a new open system all aluminum 2 core rad when my budget allows.
Thanks to all that helped me figure this out.
Thanks to all that helped me figure this out.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,322
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From: Edmonton
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 61
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From: Arizona, West Valley
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Hold the phone! I was getting ready to pull the rad and it's brand new! now I'm REALLY confused!
So to recap: New rad, new fan clutch, new lower rad hose, new thermostat, new water pump, e-fan works like it should.
What am I missing?
I don't think its a BHG, no water in oil, or vice versa. And no white smoke out the tail pipe, ever, or any smoke for that matter.
I do have a bit of blow by but I haven't gotten around to cleaning out my vac lines.
I ordered an inline filler neck, b/c the rad is new, and going the "getto" open system.

So to recap: New rad, new fan clutch, new lower rad hose, new thermostat, new water pump, e-fan works like it should.
What am I missing?
I don't think its a BHG, no water in oil, or vice versa. And no white smoke out the tail pipe, ever, or any smoke for that matter.
I do have a bit of blow by but I haven't gotten around to cleaning out my vac lines.
I ordered an inline filler neck, b/c the rad is new, and going the "getto" open system.
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,050
Likes: 2
From: Roanoke, VA
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Did you ever verify your temps with an ir gun? You could be beating a dead horse at this point, because remeber, the gauge, while helpful, is just that - a gauge. Not super duper accurate (more then likely).
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Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 61
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From: Arizona, West Valley
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
So I put in all the "ghetto" open cooling stuff. Not a hole lot of change. It does cool quicker when I get off the freeway but the temp still jumps when I stand on it. Took it of road, crawled around and it did great. Never got hot.


