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Yet another renix cooling questions

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Old Aug 13, 2013 | 04:30 PM
  #16  
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there is such a thing as a failed thermostat out of the box. i went through a couple cheapies before i coughed up the dough and went to a mopar stat. all was well after that...just don't buy a Stant. Sorry man wish i could help more...
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Old Aug 13, 2013 | 04:43 PM
  #17  
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The radiators are readily available.

Aren't you saving your coolant each time?
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Old Aug 13, 2013 | 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
The radiators are readily available.

Aren't you saving your coolant each time?
Kinda but I'm paranoid about putting used fluid back in.
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Old Aug 13, 2013 | 05:17 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by hankthetank
there is such a thing as a failed thermostat out of the box. i went through a couple cheapies before i coughed up the dough and went to a mopar stat. all was well after that...just don't buy a Stant. Sorry man wish i could help more...
Good to know. I think I am just going to bite the bullet and get a new rad (open system) and go new EVERYTHING. Got to save my pennies.

Also what are you guys thoughts on plastic vs all aluminum. I know aluminum is better but really how much better. Also is it worth the dough going to a 3 core?
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Old Aug 13, 2013 | 06:48 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by casper88xj
Kinda but I'm paranoid about putting used fluid back in.
Save your paranoia for something worthwhile. Not reusing coolant.
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Old Aug 14, 2013 | 10:23 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by casper88xj
Good to know. I think I am just going to bite the bullet and get a new rad (open system) and go new EVERYTHING. Got to save my pennies.

Also what are you guys thoughts on plastic vs all aluminum. I know aluminum is better but really how much better. Also is it worth the dough going to a 3 core?
a lot of guys think more cores = better cooling. not in all cases. i remember a thread about a guy using a two row core in his 4.0 racing jeep and it works perfect. more rows could equal overheating because there is too high of a flow rate through the rad and the fluid hasn't spent enough time in the unit for the heat to be transferred. you should only be concerned about quality. i'm lucky i have an all brass/copper blackstone rad in my renix, (i've brazed it once already) but most jeeps have the aluminum w/ plastic end tanks. if i had to replace, i would go with an all aluminum two row though. i don't think i'd be able to find another blackstone unit.
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Old Aug 14, 2013 | 08:41 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by casper88xj
Good to know. I think I am just going to bite the bullet and get a new rad (open system) and go new EVERYTHING. Got to save my pennies.

Also what are you guys thoughts on plastic vs all aluminum. I know aluminum is better but really how much better. Also is it worth the dough going to a 3 core?
Aluminum theoretically transfers heat better, but that can work against you (in the same way as the "too much flow through a 3-core" idea.)

Also, production aluminum radiators tend to have crimped-on plastic side tanks. As far as I'm concerned, those radiators are only fit for scrap. If you can't TIG on proper metal side tanks, I'm not going to buy aluminum. I'll go with brazed copper/brass parts instead. I've used Modine and Performance Radiator to good effect, and I've heard a lot of good about the CSF units from DPG Offroad.

Aluminum is used because it's cheaper than copper, crimps are used because it's a cheaper process than soldering, brazing, or welding. There are times when "cheap" is the best way to go - for instance, it's "cheaper" to roll threads on screws, in bulk, than it would be to cut them. This is to your advantage - since it also functions as a cold-forging process and gives a significantly stronger thread. "Cheap" = "Good"

However, a pressure join (even down around 13-16psig,) sealed with an O-ring, and retained with crimp tabs - and hot, to boot - is a very bad idea. "Cheap" != "Good"
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Old Aug 15, 2013 | 05:50 AM
  #23  
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Put a shroud on its there to make the fan pull air thru radiator with out them they will pull air from under hood at slow speeds instead of thru front grill a 91 radiator has the hole for fan switch if you wanna go that route.
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Old Aug 15, 2013 | 05:52 AM
  #24  
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Fan shroud cheap or junkyard ....http://www.google.com/#bav=on.2,or.r...ed=0CAkQ_AUoAw
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Old Aug 17, 2013 | 03:41 PM
  #25  
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Well that's that, replaced the lower hose and shroud. Still overheating when I hammer on the throttle. Getting a new open system all aluminum 2 core rad when my budget allows.

Thanks to all that helped me figure this out.
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Old Aug 19, 2013 | 04:59 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by casper88xj
Still overheating when I hammer on the throttle.
i watched a turbo supra do that, turned out to be a BHG...i'll keep my fingers crossed for ya.
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 12:45 PM
  #27  
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Hold the phone! I was getting ready to pull the rad and it's brand new! now I'm REALLY confused!

So to recap: New rad, new fan clutch, new lower rad hose, new thermostat, new water pump, e-fan works like it should.

What am I missing?

I don't think its a BHG, no water in oil, or vice versa. And no white smoke out the tail pipe, ever, or any smoke for that matter.

I do have a bit of blow by but I haven't gotten around to cleaning out my vac lines.

I ordered an inline filler neck, b/c the rad is new, and going the "getto" open system.
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Old Aug 27, 2013 | 07:24 AM
  #28  
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You don't think it could be the temperature sensor.... that's all u have left...
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Old Aug 27, 2013 | 08:23 AM
  #29  
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Did you ever verify your temps with an ir gun? You could be beating a dead horse at this point, because remeber, the gauge, while helpful, is just that - a gauge. Not super duper accurate (more then likely).
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Old Aug 28, 2013 | 08:19 AM
  #30  
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So I put in all the "ghetto" open cooling stuff. Not a hole lot of change. It does cool quicker when I get off the freeway but the temp still jumps when I stand on it. Took it of road, crawled around and it did great. Never got hot.
Attached Thumbnails Yet another renix cooling questions-image-1646543673.jpg  
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