The front pipe collector/flange and bolts rotted away.....
contemplating my next step... the header is good... I'd really like to save it...

THE SNAPPED BOLTS,
are they pressed in studs OR standard bolts?
it's hard to tell from the rust....

I was thinking of cutting them flush and trying to drill them out.... ?

any thoughts?

 

Hi
It's me again....

Ended up cutting a relief in them and driving them out whit a drift and hammer.
Came out pretty easy.

and, yes... they ARE pressed in.

SS hardware going in.

 

IDK if I would use SS. It seems like the obvious choice. However, I put SS bolts on a Toyota truck catalytic converter pipe one time many yrs ago ...thinking I would be able to easily remove the pipe when I needed. Well 2 months later I needed to remove the Catalytic converter pipe to remove the cross member and guess what? They were SO seized there was no way to loosen them. I had to break each of them even though they looked brand new. Some sort of action went on with the heat/cool cycles which caused the nuts to seize (and it wasn't water or salt, because it was summer). Look it up. Maybe there's a better SS. I never looked up exactly what the issue was. But I certainly wouldn't want that issue on manifold studs. There must be a reason other than cost manufacturers don't use SS on exhaust bolts.

Personally I would use stock replacements which would be a hardened grade 5 or 8 steel studs, and brass nuts. Hard steel doesn't oxidize fast, and brass you can remove any time. Or just use steel nuts ...and put a torch on them next time. Steel will rust a little, but you don't wants exhaust nuts to come loose (don't use anti-seize either). I alway put the torch on exhaust studs first to loosen them up ..and they usually come off pretty easy after that. Maybe it's time to invest in an oxy-acetylene torch, or find a buddy who has one. That makes removing exhaust bolts a cinch.

 

Cheap hardware store stainless bolts are pretty weak and stainless tends to gaul and seize worse. Last time I had mine off, I used grade 5 bolts, brass nuts and stainless lock washers which I already had in the parts bin..

 

When I had to remove/replace the engine in my recently purchased 96 XJ, I didn't hesitate to cut them with a cheap amazon plasma cutter. Was much cheaper then a oxy/ace torch. Cut them almost flush then blasted a hole through the center of them and they popped out with a hammer and punch. The bad thing is once you get a plasma cutter is you want to cut anything in your way and some that should not be cut! So you ought to get a mig welder as well Then you can weld up your mistakes and start fixing broken things....well metal broken things, as wood tends to burn!

Oh and I just used some grade 8 bolts I had and tacked them in the flange so I didn't have to back them up when I put the nuts on.....the welder saved me, again!

 

Yeah, after second thought I ordered the stock replacement bolts. I think it's the best option.... also the hole is (knurled- for lack of a better word) and the stock stud will fit right in.

seems the hardest part yet is getting that damn donut gasket off.....

and yes, I agree... plasma is great I have a Hypertherm PM45

 

I am replacing the head pipe/muffler /tail pipe. I saved the cat and the 02 sensors.... (need to do a little work on the cat... the bung ripped out... but I am gonna weld in a replacement bung)

I ALMOST bought 2 new 02 sensors..... the threads are not great..... instead I bought a M18x1.5mm DIE I gonna TRY to straighten out the threads..... we will see...... the threads are short on those... It might be a flop.
I start looking at 02 sensors and the reviews drive me nuts.... looks like maybe the Denso sensors are pretty good..?

any opinions on brand?

I leave for work at 4:00 AM ...... they neighbors are gonna hate me this week......... I'm running basically open headers....

 

NTK is the good brand for mopar/jeep... I haven't looked yet but everyone is saying most are out of stock at the moment...