Howdy XJ experts -

After recently totaling my 2000 Cherokee Sport I'm hunting for a replacement. 4wd worked incredibly in my old jeep and it's maybe the best 4door ever for parallel parking in NYC.. Antilock brakes might have helped save me from rear ending a GMC Enviy that stopped short on a wet exit ramp on the Brooklyn-Queens Expswy, but otherwise I had little to complain about. This is the perfect car for New York City. I'm now looking for a low mileage replacement I can hand down to my son -- he's only three but had been promised the old green jeep and is heartbroken it's gone

Since I've got a blank slate here and plan on having this next one for a while I want to get some information on 4wd systems.

I'm familiar with the 0331 head cracking issue and will beware of milkshake oil and evidence of overheating. I want to find a cherry low-miles 99-2001 starter and do a 3" lift and will be back here when that time comes.

Looking here first for some advice on transfer cases. A local XJ Sport package listing lists the selec-trac as a desirable and rare feature - is it?

My old XJ was also a sport and had 2hi/4hi/N/2lo as options. According to wiki this means I had Command-Trac transfer case? Never any complaints getting through snow with it. Very little time on dirt. Although hopefully will see more dirt with the next XJ.

What advantage is there to full-time 4wd (apparently afforded by the Selec-Trac system)?? Was selec-trac an option within the sport package and is it worth seeking out?

Thanks in advance to anyone who can offer some insights here.


Chris in NY


Wiki reference:

87–2001: New Process NP231 Command-Trac, part-time only, 2.72:1 ratio with low range
NP231 has the following settings: 2HI, 4HI, N, 4LO

1987–2001: New Process NP242 Selec-Trac, full-time or part-time, 2.72:1 ratio with low range
NP242 has the following settings: 2HI, 4 full-time, 4 part-time, N, 4LO

 

The select trac is good for road driving in the wet and snow. You dont have to take it in and out of 4wd as you encounter areas of good and bad traction. I t would probably be great for your application but yes, its a lot harder to find. If you were happy with how your other xj worked with the command trac then I wouldnt pass on a clean one because it did not have the select.

 

Ditto. My '00 is just a daily driver. I am older now and my off-roading days are over. Still does not mean I won't own a Jeep. Totally stock with the exception of a 4 hole injector upgrade. Might do an exhaust upgrade of some sorts in the near future. Finding an XJ with a Select a Trac will be challenging. Since these days I just want to be able to get around in bad weather I would not mind having one myself. Fantasize from time to time about making the swap but the reality of the situation is why. The Command Trac in 4Hi does what I need it to do. So again don't pass on a clean one just because of that.

 

Thanks carbuff and Ralph. Basically selec-trac offers an full time AWD option that's idiot proof eh?

Another general question - having a hard time finding an a XJ with under 100k -- many are on the cusp of or over 200. Obviously every case is different with owners and maintenance history but what should I be looking for as key things?

Will top ends (rings etc) eventually have to be done around the 200k mark? With motorcycles it's easy to comoreasion test in a parking lot. What's an advisable parking lot inspection protocol with a used XJ? Any particular wear items to be wary of, or by 200k basically expect everything to be worn out?

 

200K is nothing on these Jeeps.

 

People have wrote that the Command Trac is actually a better transfer case. Pulled an excerpt from a posting that says what many people have said:

in previous threads, what it has boiled down to is what you plan on doing with your xj. IF you have big plans as far as suspension and tires, then the Command Trac (NP 231) is probably the better choice, because it has more aftermarket support, and it is tucked up slightly higher, so it is less vulnerable to rocks/logs and other offroad obstacles. It is also slightly stronger. (I forgot where, but theres a comparison chart of the power numbers that all of the New Process/New Venture T-cases can handle.)

The Selec-Trac (NP 242) is the best case for an XJ that will remain close to stock, the Full Time setting is very nice on wet roads or other semi-loose surfaces like gravel or dirt roads. Occasionally in the rain, i get bored and i mash the gas pedal in 2wd and intentionally loose traction, a quick pull on the lever into the Full Time 4wd setting of the NP 242 and the same action with the throttle just plants me in my seat, and i do not loose traction, even around turns and such. On the other hand, Full Time is pretty useless in difficult offroad situations, but the NP 242 also has the same settings as the NP 231, in addition to FT.

I have no first hand experience about that. Could care less about rain and dirt roads. Just snow. Again mine does what I want it to do. Xj's '99 and down 300K is not an unrealistic figure. '00 and '01 the head is going play a big part in determining that. Least my opinion. Your already familiar with. I think 150K is the sweet spot. Even with an '00 or '01. People say that they go around 75K. Even a mechanic at a Jeep dealership has said this to me. With a 150K if you can rule out the head issue, as best as you can, figure your good. Either it has been replaced or the head is one of the better ones. Also I always wonder if this whole 0331 head issue has been blown out of proportion. Bought mine with 147K for $1500. Running but not drive-able. Stock. Neglected but not abused. I was not experiencing any of the cracked head symptoms I have read about. Unexplained loss of anti-freeze, milky looking oil, and the little or no oil pressure at a very hot idle. I did my valve cover gasket about 6 months ago, when I did the injectors, figured I was half way there and it could've kinda used it. No TUPY casting. Just the 0331. Original head? Replaced by previous owner? Not a clue. But I want to say I am OK. Will it go 300k? Only time will tell but I hope so. I think you are better off with a good body, glass, and interior and OK, even so-so, mechanically then the other way around. Of course my bodywork and rattle can paint skills suck. My friend says I am not allowed to touch rattle cans any more. My wrenching somewhat better on the other hand.

 

Yeah I hear that a lot. Yet hardly ever see XJ's for sale with much more than 200k miles. One might have to be a mechanic to keep em going between 200-300?

Was hoping for some more specific ideas about when these magnificent beast do die, what's the primary cause? Seems that even if the head cracked and was replaced the bearings inside the motor may have been compromised, so eventuall the motor might eat itself. If not, is there a service interval anyone knows of for how long the top ends go for before needing refreshed?

 

Top ends go forever. Bottom ends seem to also if you don't have a 2000 or 2001 that has a head crack.

 

This is great info -- thanks very much for the insights Ralph --

 

For New York City driving, I would absolutely recommend having a NP242 (select-trac). Yes I ll take a thank-you card when u get it.

One of the causes of death for those Cherokees are the OCOD...

Orange can of death

What's that?

FRAM oil filters.

I literally see every Cherokee in the junkyards or part-outs had Fram oil filters on them.

 

What is the primary cause of death? Rust. Neglect. Collision.

If you have time to shop, head south. Go find a rust-free 97-99 with good mechanicals. Like cruiser said, don't worry a lot about miles. If you can grab one close to 150k miles you can double that and still have a decent ride. I have 144k on my 98 and it absolutely runs brand new. These drivelines are stout and will run a very long time if maintained.

 

Like others have said. 150k is the sweet spot. I wouldn't really stress buying a XJ near 200k. I bought my 98 in May with 196k on it. There have been issues, but honestly non of them took over a day and over $200 to fix. It currently has 205k on it and runs like a top. The reason that one of problems happened is because my transmission was overheated by someone that towed with that caused the solenoids to fail prematurely. When I started in May I didn't know what a solenoid was. Believe me, getting a XJ with around 200k will be totally fine.

 

Not so much that, but by the time they get over 200k mi chances are they are on the 3rd/4th/5th, etc. owner that bought it relatively cheap and plans to drive it until the wheels fall off or they crumble into a pile of rust and are less likely to come up for sale again (or if the first owner kept it that long they will probably keep it until it falls apart as well).


As others have mentioned the biggest thing to look for is rust, any mechanical problem (even an engine/transmission rebuild/replacement) on an XJ can be fixed easier than major rust issues.

 

I have a friend who has the Selec-Trac and loves it. They are getting rarer and rarer but oddly enough the last time I was at my local Junkyard, all of the XJ's there were Selec-tracs. How do I know this? Because I needed a new 4wd shift bezel and none of them were the standard Command-trac's!

 

I just turned 260k. My compression is 145-150 on all 6 cylinders.

Don't be scared of 200k. There are many out there over 300k with no major engine work done.