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XJ ate sparkplug.

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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 10:37 PM
  #16  
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So ZFR5N is the correct part number. I think I found them through Nappa, they're a tab more expensive.

Let me know if these are the correct plugs:
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...252_0275416539

Also, what are some other performance symptoms related to detonation? I haven't really noticed anything out of the ordinary besides a broken spark plug.
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 10:39 PM
  #17  
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Negative - 7252 is FR51. You want 3459. They're $2.01 each on RockAuto.com
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by KJamesJR
So ZFR5N is the correct part number. I think I found them through Nappa, they're a tab more expensive.

Let me know if these are the correct plugs:
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...252_0275416539

Also, what are some other performance symptoms related to detonation? I haven't really noticed anything out of the ordinary besides a broken spark plug.

Probably just a faulty plug.

Find a shop nearby that works on European cars and get yourself a can of BG 44K. Add the contents of that expensive can to a full tank of gas and run it down to 1/8 tank. It will clean out carbon deposits, clean the injectors and valves.
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by salad
Negative - 7252 is FR51. You want 3459. They're $2.01 each on RockAuto.com
Thank you for verification.
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by KJamesJR
Thank you for verification.
How old are the cap, rotor and wires?
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 10:51 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Probably just a faulty plug.

Find a shop nearby that works on European cars and get yourself a can of BG 44K. Add the contents of that expensive can to a full tank of gas and run it down to 1/8 tank. It will clean out carbon deposits, clean the injectors and valves.
I'll check the cylinder 6 plug again in a few 100 miles. If it's a reoccurring problem by then, I will switch to the NGK plugs. The fuel additive is damn expensive... You sure it's not snake oil?
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 10:54 PM
  #22  
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Faulty plug. It happens. I had the same thing happen in the wife's Yukon. It was only two years old and threw a misfire code. Guys at the parts store didn't think it could be a plug because it was such a new car. But I bought a new set of plugs anyways as the cheapest 1st option. Turned out the porcelain jacket was cracked. Looked just like that.
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by KJamesJR
I'll check the cylinder 6 plug again in a few 100 miles. If it's a reoccurring problem by then, I will switch to the NGK plugs. The fuel additive is damn expensive... You sure it's not snake oil?
Absolutely NOT snake oil. I've used it for years. Just do the NGKs.
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
How old are the cap, rotor and wires?
I did cap and rotors with my prior tune up, last April. I've only 4k on them though. They were the Echlin/Belden parts via NAPA.

Also, NGK #3459 is not being shown on RockAuto. Only NGK #7252. I'm driving a 98.
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by KJamesJR
I did cap and rotors with my prior tune up, last April. I've only 4k on them though. They were the Echlin/Belden parts via NAPA.

Also, NGK #3459 is not being shown on RockAuto. Only NGK #7252. I'm driving a 98.
Wires? Just go into Napa and get the NGK plugs.
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 11:01 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Wires? Just go into Napa and get the NGK plugs.
The wires were Belden. Done with the tune up last April. I've contemplated changing them. They looked a bit black when peering down into the tube.
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by KJamesJR
The wires were Belden. Done with the tune up last April. I've contemplated changing them. They looked a bit black when peering down into the tube.

Wires should be good for 30,000 miles. Especially belden.
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 11:12 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Wires should be good for 30,000 miles. Especially belden.
I'll run the Champions for a while and see how things work out. If the issue continues, I'll do the switch.

As for the tapping I'm getting. I don't think it's caused by detonation. I could be wrong. I'm running MMO in it now. If that doesn't quiet things down I'll look to pulleys, and flex plate. Sounds like it's coming from the back of the engine though. Not a pulley. As for that expensive can of fuel system cleaner, I'll see where I can find it.
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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 02:00 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by KJamesJR
I'll run the Champions for a while and see how things work out. If the issue continues, I'll do the switch.

As for the tapping I'm getting. I don't think it's caused by detonation. I could be wrong. I'm running MMO in it now. If that doesn't quiet things down I'll look to pulleys, and flex plate. Sounds like it's coming from the back of the engine though. Not a pulley. As for that expensive can of fuel system cleaner, I'll see where I can find it.
good champions come in jeeps from the factory till this day.
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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 06:54 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by KJamesJR
I'll run the Champions for a while and see how things work out. If the issue continues, I'll do the switch.

As for the tapping I'm getting. I don't think it's caused by detonation. I could be wrong. I'm running MMO in it now. If that doesn't quiet things down I'll look to pulleys, and flex plate. Sounds like it's coming from the back of the engine though. Not a pulley. As for that expensive can of fuel system cleaner, I'll see where I can find it.

Don't procrastinate on those flexplate bolts. Just flat do them.

That 44K only needs to be done once a year. Extremely effective.

As for the plugs, I don't see the logic in keeping things inside my engine that have already proven to throw chunks of porcelain in to it. For $12? Not me.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/ho...ocking-125547/

Last edited by cruiser54; Mar 14, 2013 at 06:57 AM.
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