Modrod

UPDATE:
There are some problems with the Durango/Dodge filler neck fix for the closed to open cooling system conversion. The stock upper radiator hose on our XJ's is very small compared to most car/trucks/suv's. The Dodge filler neck is about 1 3/4 of an inch and the hose on our radiators are only 1 1/4. So it is tricky getting the hose to fit or adapt to it.
So, I think the best way to put a filler neck and eliminate the closed system is to get the SUMMIT RACING MOROSO filler neck which is about the same price $28 + shipping. It is 1 1/4 out diameter and our radiator hoses are 1 1/4 inner diameter. Perfect match.

The part is:
Moroso 63745




[quote=Jeepyjeepy;1653566]

zombie jeep101

Please help, I am baffled! So my old battery kept dieing so I bought a new one and it was good for about 2 months. Now it keeps dieing! Something is obviously draining my juice slow. I know it could be a ton of things but can someone narrow it down? Please!

sycoglitch

now if i remember correctly you have to pull each fuse one by one and have a test light but forgot exactly where to connect each end too. but have you cleaned your grounds and battery clamps and make sure alt wire is not corroded and wire is tight under clamps. i had a similar problem and it was cause my alt wire was loose. New clamps, cut back wire and dieelectric greased and my problem is solved

CJG

I just ran into the same exact problem with my new-to-me 1990 base model. (Except both my front and rear right directional were staying on.) 1st, make sure you're using double filament bulbs for the brake lights.

I'd made that mistake but then, when I changed them out for double filament, the problem didn't go away so I was sure it was a bad switch. So until I could get to it I figured I should just manually flick the directional stick. After about 5 times doing that the right blinker magically started to work! It's slower than the left blinker and it remains constantly on when I have the headlights on. (Actually, I only have one working headlight.)

So my guess is it's still a bad switch or the one dead headlight is effecting the circuit.

YMMV as I am far from an electrical expert...

CJ

Terryble

I've got a rather odd problem and I can't seem to find anyone else asking about it in the forums. At times when I change my a/c - heater selector in my '96, it will shut down everything. The motor dies, the lights, radio, blower, gauges, everything shuts down whether I'm driving or idling. I can be going down the road and turn off the vent, a/c or heater or sometimes just change from heat to defrost and have it shut down on me. It'll crank right back up most of the time (just pray you're not being tailgated and going downhill instead of uphill when it happens) but I have had to let it sit a few minutes before re-cranking. Any suggestions on what this could be? Also, my heat, vent, etc. will only blow on high and turns the blower off on any other setting. I'm thinking I need to check the dash harness, but any advice would be welcomed.

Baja Cherokee

I had a similar problem and after checking every ground and all sources of power drain still found the battery would be dead the next morning. I opted to install a battery disconnect switch in an easy to reach location under the dash, between my battery ground & the battery. Works great, and I can easily start the next day. Now I can leave the vehicle for longs periods and even start easily after being away for over 30 days.

kaiser74

hi,i've 2 problems with my 06 cherokee;
1.the tailgate opens,glass lifts when i double tap the button on the key as it should,but if the jeeps unlocked and you open the tailgate by the handle it opens but you cant close the glass,until you double click the button on the key again,you hear the lock click and its good to go.it wasn't like this before,is there an easy fix?
2.drivers side wing mirror(electic)wont move by the switch as the passenger side does,it just moves about freely,and if the winds strong keeps blowing shut,is there a simple fix?

bhennessee1

I'd say the first problem is they stoped making Cherokees in 2001 so you dont have a 2006 Cherokee

Kuro89

He is talking about lift glass do he means grand Cherokee

wildspear

Lol, maybe a GC

bhennessee1

Yea I know but when people say Cherokee and mean grand Cherokee I irks me ****in bad.

noahp45

I have a 96 cherokee 4x2 automatic. If i boughht the same year cherokee but 4x4 How much do you think i would haft to pay someone to swap over all of the 4x4 hardware? Im in so cal.

Kuro89

Lots
To clarify it consumes time, not a lot of expertise needed to do it, unbolt off both Riggs bolt back onto your own, a little fiddling with the tcase linkage

XJeepin23

Knock/Tap at idle: So I bought my 2nd XJ a few weeks ago. It's a 99 with just about 60k miles. Everything runs great...excellent oil pressure, good temp readings for the stock radiator, etc. But I am trying to isolate this noise. It only happens when the Jeep has been running for awhile and is warmed up. Also, I can only hear it with the windows up and the radio off. It's like a tap tap tap noise which sounds like its coming from underneath the driver side floor or maybe a little further up. It does not matter if I'm in park, neutral, or whatever. As soon as I give it any gas, the noise goes away. It is intermittent as well. Sometimes it seems louder than others. Originally, I thought it was the flexplate bolts. Yesterday I took of the inspection cover but for some reason one of the big bolts faces the exhaust so I am unable to pull it completely out. I just slid my wrench up and checked the one visible bolt and it seemed tight. I may try and get to all of them sometime this week. But before I do again, any other ideas? Thanks

noahp45

Lots? So $600 or $1200
I could and would do it but my work schedule is just unforgiving.