09-21-2015, 03:49 PM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: General Overview
- Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ 1999 to 2004 Crash Test and Safety Ratings
Important Information to help you understand your Jeep Grand Cherokee.
Browse all: General Overview
XJ Ask the Question Thread
08-03-2010, 11:45 AM
#1021
Junior Member
i'm fresh out of ideas as to what is causing this problem; could it be my fuel pressure regulator.
Can anyone please verify what the exact fuel pressure should be; cause i installed a new IAC valve and TPS.
the engine runs a bit better but that stuborn intermitent idle during a cold start and normal driving speeds is still there. It's sounds as though the engine is been starved of fuel or the ignition timing is retarding to much.
Can anyone please verify what the exact fuel pressure should be; cause i installed a new IAC valve and TPS.
the engine runs a bit better but that stuborn intermitent idle during a cold start and normal driving speeds is still there. It's sounds as though the engine is been starved of fuel or the ignition timing is retarding to much.
08-03-2010, 11:55 AM
#1022
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
08-03-2010, 06:27 PM
#1023
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central Washington
Posts: 360
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 91 xj, 93 xj, 93 zj, 94 zj
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2x I6, 2x v8
i'm fresh out of ideas as to what is causing this problem; could it be my fuel pressure regulator.
Can anyone please verify what the exact fuel pressure should be; cause i installed a new IAC valve and TPS.
the engine runs a bit better but that stuborn intermitent idle during a cold start and normal driving speeds is still there. It's sounds as though the engine is been starved of fuel or the ignition timing is retarding to much.
Can anyone please verify what the exact fuel pressure should be; cause i installed a new IAC valve and TPS.
the engine runs a bit better but that stuborn intermitent idle during a cold start and normal driving speeds is still there. It's sounds as though the engine is been starved of fuel or the ignition timing is retarding to much.
For my '91, the reset was as simple as turning the key to 'on' without starting and off again about three times, waiting in each position. (at least, that's what I was told would work, and it seemed to).
Other than vacume leaks, the only other thing I can think of is if the IAC got damaged on the install. I've not seen it myself happening, but the instructions have stressed that this is an easy thing to do if not installed properly.
One thing I tried at one point to check things out if you have the old one, to check if there's some functional signal going to the IAC:
Test 1) remove the IAC and have someone turn the key to 'on'. The pintle should retract and index around smoothly, resetting to the origional position when you turn the key off. As in the instructions that came with the new IAC, make sure the pintle is retracted enough before reinstalling.
Test 2) start the motor, let it level out if possible. Unplug the IAC wire and attach the old one. The pintle should move incrementally as the computer trys to moderate the idle speed. Try to turn the head lights on and off to put a load on the engine, and the pintle should move to attempt to compensate. If I remember right, you should be able to either just plug the IAC wire back in while it's running, or if you want to play it safe, turn off the engine, plug it in, and do a reset.
Just a note: as I wrote this, it seems that some may be squeamish about unplugging motors and such while the engine is running. I was too, but I had replaced every other sensor in the vehicle and swapped with a donor with no improvement. Using this method I found that the IAC had been bad in the other jeep but had different results. When I tried this, the pintle was jumpy, more than can be acountable for considering it's a step motor.
BTW, the fuel pressure for a early to mid 90's, if I remember right, was around 30psi with the vacume line connected, and 40-45 disconnected. I can't be sure about that, but it's in the Hanes if you have one.
Vacume leaks:
Back a few pages (about 65, I think), there were a few questions about the vacume bottle and other issues. I have a fwe things I've gathered and found myself:
Each XJ seems to have it's own personality when it comes to the effects of the intake and vacume system. I've had some that had no symptoms running, but had rather large lines disconnected or worn through, and others that would flutter, sputter, and die with just the slightest issue.
That vacume bottle, as mentioned earlier, is a tank to "store vacume" for when large demands are made. I'm pretty sure the brake booster on my XJs don't use it, but things like the vent controls, the t-case selector, and other actuators can use a surge at once. My 89 parts jeep runs just fine until you give it a lot of throttle, and it has the bottle cracked (LARGE hole in it from impact), even though all the vac lines connect to it. My trail jeep has the bottle disconnected and plugged and the only thing I can figure is that my T-case won't shift out of 4wd, no other issues.
Lets face it, most XJs are getting on in years, so we need to look for age related issues. One of the most sneaky issues I had was on the cruise control vac line on my '93. The cruise would cut in and out all the time, working well sometimes, and outright failing others, and I figured it was just dieing from age. Just out of curiousity, I looked it over, and found that the wiring harness had rubbed a hole in the side of the plastic tubing, and would sometimes lay across it and seal the hole, and other times it would slide off and let it leak, which meant that the actuator couldn't pull hard enough to take over. As I need to, check all the vacume lines on all sides if you suspect it, or use the 'half' method: disconnect the accessory line from the intake, plug the intake side, and see if your issue improves. if not, your problem is with the intake or TB. If there is an improvment, go halfway down the line and disconnect again, plug, and retest. Keep deviding the line down until the issue is singled out.
One other issue I found that I've still not understood how it hooks in: on my wife's grand the tcase wouldn't disconnect front and rear (part time/full time), and the vent wouldn't allow all the selections ("vent" would go to the defrostor). I couldn't hear or see any leaks anywhere, and we even took it to a shop. I just took a peek at the Tcase to see if there's a boost tank or something like the XJ, and found a line that pulled off who knows how long ago. Since it was a rather large vac line, I'm hoping that both issues will be fixed now.
There's a lot of good info here on the forums, but the best way to learn is to jump in and get your hands dirty. Even good pics have not helped me as much as fiddling around and trying things out!
08-03-2010, 07:43 PM
#1024
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Fort lewis, wa/ university place, wa
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Thanks for the help
08-04-2010, 01:34 AM
#1025
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Sidney Center NY
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
What will I need to change or extend if I put 5" of lift under my XJ?
I will be doing 3" coils and a 2" spacer in the front, with a Dakota bastard pack in the rear and a 2" shackle. I already know I will have to relocate/lengthen the brake lines, add longer shocks, and I will have to do a T case drop. Is there anything else I will have to modify to make this work, safely? This is going on a daily driver so I don't want stuff to break all the time.
I will be doing 3" coils and a 2" spacer in the front, with a Dakota bastard pack in the rear and a 2" shackle. I already know I will have to relocate/lengthen the brake lines, add longer shocks, and I will have to do a T case drop. Is there anything else I will have to modify to make this work, safely? This is going on a daily driver so I don't want stuff to break all the time.
08-04-2010, 01:37 AM
#1026
CF Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: NC
Posts: 5,376
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
What will I need to change or extend if I put 5" of lift under my XJ?
I will be doing 3" coils and a 2" spacer in the front, with a Dakota bastard pack in the rear and a 2" shackle. I already know I will have to relocate/lengthen the brake lines, add longer shocks, and I will have to do a T case drop. Is there anything else I will have to modify to make this work, safely? This is going on a daily driver so I don't want stuff to break all the time.
I will be doing 3" coils and a 2" spacer in the front, with a Dakota bastard pack in the rear and a 2" shackle. I already know I will have to relocate/lengthen the brake lines, add longer shocks, and I will have to do a T case drop. Is there anything else I will have to modify to make this work, safely? This is going on a daily driver so I don't want stuff to break all the time.
I think you will need a drop pitman arm and a SYE well...I guess only the SYE if you end up with binding after the t-case drop.
Last edited by NewXJaddict; 08-04-2010 at 01:41 AM.
08-04-2010, 04:01 AM
#1027
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 5,383
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
1 Post
Year: 1988 limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 litre
Did you do the computer reset after changing them? I had the same issue, replaced the IAC and had to reset the comp before it would run right, though I still get the occasional variance in RPM at idle and haven't figure that out yet.
For my '91, the reset was as simple as turning the key to 'on' without starting and off again about three times, waiting in each position. (at least, that's what I was told would work, and it seemed to).
Other than vacume leaks, the only other thing I can think of is if the IAC got damaged on the install. I've not seen it myself happening, but the instructions have stressed that this is an easy thing to do if not installed properly.
One thing I tried at one point to check things out if you have the old one, to check if there's some functional signal going to the IAC:
Test 1) remove the IAC and have someone turn the key to 'on'. The pintle should retract and index around smoothly, resetting to the origional position when you turn the key off. As in the instructions that came with the new IAC, make sure the pintle is retracted enough before reinstalling.
Test 2) start the motor, let it level out if possible. Unplug the IAC wire and attach the old one. The pintle should move incrementally as the computer trys to moderate the idle speed. Try to turn the head lights on and off to put a load on the engine, and the pintle should move to attempt to compensate. If I remember right, you should be able to either just plug the IAC wire back in while it's running, or if you want to play it safe, turn off the engine, plug it in, and do a reset.
Just a note: as I wrote this, it seems that some may be squeamish about unplugging motors and such while the engine is running. I was too, but I had replaced every other sensor in the vehicle and swapped with a donor with no improvement. Using this method I found that the IAC had been bad in the other jeep but had different results. When I tried this, the pintle was jumpy, more than can be acountable for considering it's a step motor.
BTW, the fuel pressure for a early to mid 90's, if I remember right, was around 30psi with the vacume line connected, and 40-45 disconnected. I can't be sure about that, but it's in the Hanes if you have one.
Vacume leaks:
Back a few pages (about 65, I think), there were a few questions about the vacume bottle and other issues. I have a fwe things I've gathered and found myself:
Each XJ seems to have it's own personality when it comes to the effects of the intake and vacume system. I've had some that had no symptoms running, but had rather large lines disconnected or worn through, and others that would flutter, sputter, and die with just the slightest issue.
That vacume bottle, as mentioned earlier, is a tank to "store vacume" for when large demands are made. I'm pretty sure the brake booster on my XJs don't use it, but things like the vent controls, the t-case selector, and other actuators can use a surge at once. My 89 parts jeep runs just fine until you give it a lot of throttle, and it has the bottle cracked (LARGE hole in it from impact), even though all the vac lines connect to it. My trail jeep has the bottle disconnected and plugged and the only thing I can figure is that my T-case won't shift out of 4wd, no other issues.
Lets face it, most XJs are getting on in years, so we need to look for age related issues. One of the most sneaky issues I had was on the cruise control vac line on my '93. The cruise would cut in and out all the time, working well sometimes, and outright failing others, and I figured it was just dieing from age. Just out of curiousity, I looked it over, and found that the wiring harness had rubbed a hole in the side of the plastic tubing, and would sometimes lay across it and seal the hole, and other times it would slide off and let it leak, which meant that the actuator couldn't pull hard enough to take over. As I need to, check all the vacume lines on all sides if you suspect it, or use the 'half' method: disconnect the accessory line from the intake, plug the intake side, and see if your issue improves. if not, your problem is with the intake or TB. If there is an improvment, go halfway down the line and disconnect again, plug, and retest. Keep deviding the line down until the issue is singled out.
One other issue I found that I've still not understood how it hooks in: on my wife's grand the tcase wouldn't disconnect front and rear (part time/full time), and the vent wouldn't allow all the selections ("vent" would go to the defrostor). I couldn't hear or see any leaks anywhere, and we even took it to a shop. I just took a peek at the Tcase to see if there's a boost tank or something like the XJ, and found a line that pulled off who knows how long ago. Since it was a rather large vac line, I'm hoping that both issues will be fixed now.
There's a lot of good info here on the forums, but the best way to learn is to jump in and get your hands dirty. Even good pics have not helped me as much as fiddling around and trying things out!
For my '91, the reset was as simple as turning the key to 'on' without starting and off again about three times, waiting in each position. (at least, that's what I was told would work, and it seemed to).
Other than vacume leaks, the only other thing I can think of is if the IAC got damaged on the install. I've not seen it myself happening, but the instructions have stressed that this is an easy thing to do if not installed properly.
One thing I tried at one point to check things out if you have the old one, to check if there's some functional signal going to the IAC:
Test 1) remove the IAC and have someone turn the key to 'on'. The pintle should retract and index around smoothly, resetting to the origional position when you turn the key off. As in the instructions that came with the new IAC, make sure the pintle is retracted enough before reinstalling.
Test 2) start the motor, let it level out if possible. Unplug the IAC wire and attach the old one. The pintle should move incrementally as the computer trys to moderate the idle speed. Try to turn the head lights on and off to put a load on the engine, and the pintle should move to attempt to compensate. If I remember right, you should be able to either just plug the IAC wire back in while it's running, or if you want to play it safe, turn off the engine, plug it in, and do a reset.
Just a note: as I wrote this, it seems that some may be squeamish about unplugging motors and such while the engine is running. I was too, but I had replaced every other sensor in the vehicle and swapped with a donor with no improvement. Using this method I found that the IAC had been bad in the other jeep but had different results. When I tried this, the pintle was jumpy, more than can be acountable for considering it's a step motor.
BTW, the fuel pressure for a early to mid 90's, if I remember right, was around 30psi with the vacume line connected, and 40-45 disconnected. I can't be sure about that, but it's in the Hanes if you have one.
Vacume leaks:
Back a few pages (about 65, I think), there were a few questions about the vacume bottle and other issues. I have a fwe things I've gathered and found myself:
Each XJ seems to have it's own personality when it comes to the effects of the intake and vacume system. I've had some that had no symptoms running, but had rather large lines disconnected or worn through, and others that would flutter, sputter, and die with just the slightest issue.
That vacume bottle, as mentioned earlier, is a tank to "store vacume" for when large demands are made. I'm pretty sure the brake booster on my XJs don't use it, but things like the vent controls, the t-case selector, and other actuators can use a surge at once. My 89 parts jeep runs just fine until you give it a lot of throttle, and it has the bottle cracked (LARGE hole in it from impact), even though all the vac lines connect to it. My trail jeep has the bottle disconnected and plugged and the only thing I can figure is that my T-case won't shift out of 4wd, no other issues.
Lets face it, most XJs are getting on in years, so we need to look for age related issues. One of the most sneaky issues I had was on the cruise control vac line on my '93. The cruise would cut in and out all the time, working well sometimes, and outright failing others, and I figured it was just dieing from age. Just out of curiousity, I looked it over, and found that the wiring harness had rubbed a hole in the side of the plastic tubing, and would sometimes lay across it and seal the hole, and other times it would slide off and let it leak, which meant that the actuator couldn't pull hard enough to take over. As I need to, check all the vacume lines on all sides if you suspect it, or use the 'half' method: disconnect the accessory line from the intake, plug the intake side, and see if your issue improves. if not, your problem is with the intake or TB. If there is an improvment, go halfway down the line and disconnect again, plug, and retest. Keep deviding the line down until the issue is singled out.
One other issue I found that I've still not understood how it hooks in: on my wife's grand the tcase wouldn't disconnect front and rear (part time/full time), and the vent wouldn't allow all the selections ("vent" would go to the defrostor). I couldn't hear or see any leaks anywhere, and we even took it to a shop. I just took a peek at the Tcase to see if there's a boost tank or something like the XJ, and found a line that pulled off who knows how long ago. Since it was a rather large vac line, I'm hoping that both issues will be fixed now.
There's a lot of good info here on the forums, but the best way to learn is to jump in and get your hands dirty. Even good pics have not helped me as much as fiddling around and trying things out!
I would like to add a couple of things:
The common RENIX vacuum line breaking points are:
*where the two lines go to the bottle and pass through a hole in the lower crossmember
*around the air box, especially those that serve the EGR solenoid.
*the heater valve, it has that crappy white line that crumbles only if you look at it.
*if you have the disco, on the disco actuator.
Another not uncommon vacuum leak is around the intake manifold gasket. Try to tighten the manifold bolts all around, this one worked for me after i tried EVERYTHING.
I suggest also to clean the throttle body around the throttle plate, that small slit when the throttle plate is closed is very important for a smooth idle.
08-04-2010, 09:13 AM
#1030
Junior Member
Did you do the computer reset after changing them? I had the same issue, replaced the IAC and had to reset the comp before it would run right, though I still get the occasional variance in RPM at idle and haven't figure that out yet.
For my '91, the reset was as simple as turning the key to 'on' without starting and off again about three times, waiting in each position. (at least, that's what I was told would work, and it seemed to).
Other than vacume leaks, the only other thing I can think of is if the IAC got damaged on the install. I've not seen it myself happening, but the instructions have stressed that this is an easy thing to do if not installed properly.
One thing I tried at one point to check things out if you have the old one, to check if there's some functional signal going to the IAC:
Test 1) remove the IAC and have someone turn the key to 'on'. The pintle should retract and index around smoothly, resetting to the origional position when you turn the key off. As in the instructions that came with the new IAC, make sure the pintle is retracted enough before reinstalling.
Test 2) start the motor, let it level out if possible. Unplug the IAC wire and attach the old one. The pintle should move incrementally as the computer trys to moderate the idle speed. Try to turn the head lights on and off to put a load on the engine, and the pintle should move to attempt to compensate. If I remember right, you should be able to either just plug the IAC wire back in while it's running, or if you want to play it safe, turn off the engine, plug it in, and do a reset.
Just a note: as I wrote this, it seems that some may be squeamish about unplugging motors and such while the engine is running. I was too, but I had replaced every other sensor in the vehicle and swapped with a donor with no improvement. Using this method I found that the IAC had been bad in the other jeep but had different results. When I tried this, the pintle was jumpy, more than can be acountable for considering it's a step motor.
BTW, the fuel pressure for a early to mid 90's, if I remember right, was around 30psi with the vacume line connected, and 40-45 disconnected. I can't be sure about that, but it's in the Hanes if you have one.
Vacume leaks:
Back a few pages (about 65, I think), there were a few questions about the vacume bottle and other issues. I have a fwe things I've gathered and found myself:
Each XJ seems to have it's own personality when it comes to the effects of the intake and vacume system. I've had some that had no symptoms running, but had rather large lines disconnected or worn through, and others that would flutter, sputter, and die with just the slightest issue.
That vacume bottle, as mentioned earlier, is a tank to "store vacume" for when large demands are made. I'm pretty sure the brake booster on my XJs don't use it, but things like the vent controls, the t-case selector, and other actuators can use a surge at once. My 89 parts jeep runs just fine until you give it a lot of throttle, and it has the bottle cracked (LARGE hole in it from impact), even though all the vac lines connect to it. My trail jeep has the bottle disconnected and plugged and the only thing I can figure is that my T-case won't shift out of 4wd, no other issues.
Lets face it, most XJs are getting on in years, so we need to look for age related issues. One of the most sneaky issues I had was on the cruise control vac line on my '93. The cruise would cut in and out all the time, working well sometimes, and outright failing others, and I figured it was just dieing from age. Just out of curiousity, I looked it over, and found that the wiring harness had rubbed a hole in the side of the plastic tubing, and would sometimes lay across it and seal the hole, and other times it would slide off and let it leak, which meant that the actuator couldn't pull hard enough to take over. As I need to, check all the vacume lines on all sides if you suspect it, or use the 'half' method: disconnect the accessory line from the intake, plug the intake side, and see if your issue improves. if not, your problem is with the intake or TB. If there is an improvment, go halfway down the line and disconnect again, plug, and retest. Keep deviding the line down until the issue is singled out.
One other issue I found that I've still not understood how it hooks in: on my wife's grand the tcase wouldn't disconnect front and rear (part time/full time), and the vent wouldn't allow all the selections ("vent" would go to the defrostor). I couldn't hear or see any leaks anywhere, and we even took it to a shop. I just took a peek at the Tcase to see if there's a boost tank or something like the XJ, and found a line that pulled off who knows how long ago. Since it was a rather large vac line, I'm hoping that both issues will be fixed now.
There's a lot of good info here on the forums, but the best way to learn is to jump in and get your hands dirty. Even good pics have not helped me as much as fiddling around and trying things out!
For my '91, the reset was as simple as turning the key to 'on' without starting and off again about three times, waiting in each position. (at least, that's what I was told would work, and it seemed to).
Other than vacume leaks, the only other thing I can think of is if the IAC got damaged on the install. I've not seen it myself happening, but the instructions have stressed that this is an easy thing to do if not installed properly.
One thing I tried at one point to check things out if you have the old one, to check if there's some functional signal going to the IAC:
Test 1) remove the IAC and have someone turn the key to 'on'. The pintle should retract and index around smoothly, resetting to the origional position when you turn the key off. As in the instructions that came with the new IAC, make sure the pintle is retracted enough before reinstalling.
Test 2) start the motor, let it level out if possible. Unplug the IAC wire and attach the old one. The pintle should move incrementally as the computer trys to moderate the idle speed. Try to turn the head lights on and off to put a load on the engine, and the pintle should move to attempt to compensate. If I remember right, you should be able to either just plug the IAC wire back in while it's running, or if you want to play it safe, turn off the engine, plug it in, and do a reset.
Just a note: as I wrote this, it seems that some may be squeamish about unplugging motors and such while the engine is running. I was too, but I had replaced every other sensor in the vehicle and swapped with a donor with no improvement. Using this method I found that the IAC had been bad in the other jeep but had different results. When I tried this, the pintle was jumpy, more than can be acountable for considering it's a step motor.
BTW, the fuel pressure for a early to mid 90's, if I remember right, was around 30psi with the vacume line connected, and 40-45 disconnected. I can't be sure about that, but it's in the Hanes if you have one.
Vacume leaks:
Back a few pages (about 65, I think), there were a few questions about the vacume bottle and other issues. I have a fwe things I've gathered and found myself:
Each XJ seems to have it's own personality when it comes to the effects of the intake and vacume system. I've had some that had no symptoms running, but had rather large lines disconnected or worn through, and others that would flutter, sputter, and die with just the slightest issue.
That vacume bottle, as mentioned earlier, is a tank to "store vacume" for when large demands are made. I'm pretty sure the brake booster on my XJs don't use it, but things like the vent controls, the t-case selector, and other actuators can use a surge at once. My 89 parts jeep runs just fine until you give it a lot of throttle, and it has the bottle cracked (LARGE hole in it from impact), even though all the vac lines connect to it. My trail jeep has the bottle disconnected and plugged and the only thing I can figure is that my T-case won't shift out of 4wd, no other issues.
Lets face it, most XJs are getting on in years, so we need to look for age related issues. One of the most sneaky issues I had was on the cruise control vac line on my '93. The cruise would cut in and out all the time, working well sometimes, and outright failing others, and I figured it was just dieing from age. Just out of curiousity, I looked it over, and found that the wiring harness had rubbed a hole in the side of the plastic tubing, and would sometimes lay across it and seal the hole, and other times it would slide off and let it leak, which meant that the actuator couldn't pull hard enough to take over. As I need to, check all the vacume lines on all sides if you suspect it, or use the 'half' method: disconnect the accessory line from the intake, plug the intake side, and see if your issue improves. if not, your problem is with the intake or TB. If there is an improvment, go halfway down the line and disconnect again, plug, and retest. Keep deviding the line down until the issue is singled out.
One other issue I found that I've still not understood how it hooks in: on my wife's grand the tcase wouldn't disconnect front and rear (part time/full time), and the vent wouldn't allow all the selections ("vent" would go to the defrostor). I couldn't hear or see any leaks anywhere, and we even took it to a shop. I just took a peek at the Tcase to see if there's a boost tank or something like the XJ, and found a line that pulled off who knows how long ago. Since it was a rather large vac line, I'm hoping that both issues will be fixed now.
There's a lot of good info here on the forums, but the best way to learn is to jump in and get your hands dirty. Even good pics have not helped me as much as fiddling around and trying things out!
08-04-2010, 10:13 AM
#1031
Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: marthasville MO.
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
im doing axle swap (44 and 9" out of a 79 f-150) i was needing to know what all i need off of the f-150 to successfully do the swap and if you all have any helpful hints that would be crazy awesome
08-04-2010, 05:58 PM
#1032
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Saginaw, Mi
Posts: 530
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
two questions ????
i have a 99 xj sport 4.0
looking to get a jy starter and steering box to get by
are they all the same or dose the year or trim package have to match
both will be gone through before install
i have a 99 xj sport 4.0
looking to get a jy starter and steering box to get by
are they all the same or dose the year or trim package have to match
both will be gone through before install
Last edited by krash83; 08-04-2010 at 06:01 PM. Reason: add text
08-04-2010, 07:46 PM
#1033
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Sidney Center NY
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Today I moved my XJ up to the top of my hill and moved it around a bit to test the 4x4, when I got done I parked it and turned it off. As soon as I shut it down I heard a gurgling sound and steam started to come out of the passengers side of the hood, so I popped it and there was coolant boiling out of the reservoir. What could cause this? When I was running it the temp gauge stayed at cool-normal.
08-05-2010, 01:02 AM
#1034
Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Walnut Creek, CA
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter
Now my ticking collapsed lifter stopped ticking (I thought that was good, but no), then my my engine started running like I had water in my fuel. I pulled the valve cover and found that the pushrod above the collapsed lifter had fallen down into the hole. I fished it out with and extending magnet to find it broken, bent and a little chewed up on the sides. The other end of the pushrod is still attached to the top of the lifter.
I don't have the extra money or time to pull the head and replace the lifters and pushrods right now. The company cut my hours and rent's due. How bad is it to run without the pushrod??? Should I leave it where it is (parked in front of my brother's house) or could I drive it home?
Thanks for any help.
08-05-2010, 01:17 AM
#1035
Newbie
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: mamaroneck new york
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
rough idle
Once in a while, when im in neutral, my cherokee will start to idle really rough almost untill it dies. when i put it in gear and drive, it feels like it has a lot less power and barely moves. eventually i'll speed up and it will go away but then it will idle at a higher rpm almost as if the car is compensating for itself and then if i stop the same thing will happen and will shake. the car already has 204,000 and im thinking it may be the fuel injectors but it doesent feel like the shaking is coming from the engine but the tranny rather. any advice?