09-21-2015, 03:49 PM
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XJ Ask the Question Thread
04-14-2015, 03:04 AM
No, I don't lick fish.
Seems like you may have a flow restriction.
Heating up at idle and in slow traffic is usually a sign of poor airflow (fan clutch or clogged fins in radiator or condenser).
Heating up, or fluctuating temps during highway driving is a sign of poor coolant flow.
The problem you may have is with the Dex-cool. When used in a sysytem that previously had green glycol, it tends to clump and clog passages. Flushing will not remove it all. The passages in radiator are small, once clogged they are almost impossible to clear without removing it from vehicle and having it professionally flushed (or replaced).
A cooler thermostat will not prevent running hot or fluctuating temps. And will have negative effects on fuel mixture and operating efficiency.
195 F is correct.
Heating up at idle and in slow traffic is usually a sign of poor airflow (fan clutch or clogged fins in radiator or condenser).
Heating up, or fluctuating temps during highway driving is a sign of poor coolant flow.
The problem you may have is with the Dex-cool. When used in a sysytem that previously had green glycol, it tends to clump and clog passages. Flushing will not remove it all. The passages in radiator are small, once clogged they are almost impossible to clear without removing it from vehicle and having it professionally flushed (or replaced).
A cooler thermostat will not prevent running hot or fluctuating temps. And will have negative effects on fuel mixture and operating efficiency.
195 F is correct.
As Psycho said, try verifying the temperatures with a Thermal gun first, because it also could be your temp sender. Also, I'm curious as to your answer of your defnition of "overheat". It sounds like it's within normal limits as far as operating temperatures. Up into the red mark with some steam starting to show is overheating... not going just a little over the 210 mark.
04-14-2015, 06:28 AM
Beach Bum
I'm looking to weld up my chassis stiffeners soon. I'm trying to come up with a cost effective way to cover everything up. Por-15 is on the spendy side and I have no rust or salted roads. I was initially thinking about using bed liner. I'd like it to be black (I'm planning on coating the fender wells and whole underside) and easy to touch up and hose off dirt (I feel like bed liner would trap it all in).
Por-15 is for things that are already rusted.
I would not use bedliner but an undercoating after stiffeners are installed. Undercoats are asphalt based, the oils in it are absorbed by any bare metal and it 'creeps' into crevices. Can also be spraypainted after cured.
After my wheeling trip this weekend, I want to add a trans cooler for my AW4.
But I'm confused as to what to do about plumbing it. Where should I cut the lines in order to attach new rubber lines? Does it matter where?
I read that I should run the line that usually is the "inlet" for the radiator to the trans cooler, then from the trans cooler back to the radiator. This will allow the fluid to warm up a little bit inside the radiator so the fluid isn't too cold for the trans. Is this correct or just stupid?
But I'm confused as to what to do about plumbing it. Where should I cut the lines in order to attach new rubber lines? Does it matter where?
I read that I should run the line that usually is the "inlet" for the radiator to the trans cooler, then from the trans cooler back to the radiator. This will allow the fluid to warm up a little bit inside the radiator so the fluid isn't too cold for the trans. Is this correct or just stupid?
Tranny to Aux cooler to heat exchanger (radiator) return to tranny.
Line towards front of AW4 is hot/out. Rear line is return.
The idea is, the aux cooler removes heat from fluid, heat exchanger then cools it off more OR adds heat, depending on operating temp/demands on transmission.
04-14-2015, 06:31 AM
Seasoned Member
sorry I'm a bit late to the punch on some of these, but I thought I'd put my two cents in.
The dizzy CAN be put in a tooth off and it will start. You will know immediately that it's wrong. Trust me, it's not a nice thing to hear from your jeep. Just follow cruisers distructions and you'll be golden.
The gasket is a bit of a PITA to find. If the box parts houses have it, I've yet to find it. When I chased it down I found it at a National auto parts. They had it on the shelf for a couple dollars.
The dizzy CAN be put in a tooth off and it will start. You will know immediately that it's wrong. Trust me, it's not a nice thing to hear from your jeep. Just follow cruisers distructions and you'll be golden.
The gasket is a bit of a PITA to find. If the box parts houses have it, I've yet to find it. When I chased it down I found it at a National auto parts. They had it on the shelf for a couple dollars.
Yeppers.. Oddly enough, when I took the new dizzy out of the box, guess what it had on it?
So, it's installed following Cruiser's tech tips.
I'm still having a slight problem with the idle. When I start the engine and let it idle, it will occasionally drop by a hundred RPM's or so.. the drop is barely noticeable, but it's there. It will drop for maybe 8-10 seconds, then raise again. Anybody wanna guess on that?
You guys will get a kick out of this: After I finished the installation, I came inside to wash my hands. When I came out, my "gopher" decided to do me a favor and wash the motor, much to my chagrin.
I'll let Cruiser guess what I've got on order at the moment. This time I ordered two, just to have a spare in the trunk.
04-14-2015, 09:34 AM
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Correct.
Tranny to Aux cooler to heat exchanger (radiator) return to tranny.
Line towards front of AW4 is hot/out. Rear line is return.
The idea is, the aux cooler removes heat from fluid, heat exchanger then cools it off more OR adds heat, depending on operating temp/demands on transmission.
04-14-2015, 06:03 PM
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I created a thread for this but I figured it couldn't hurt to throw it in here too "Today I was putting new bulbs in my H4 housings, and the drivers side blinker began hyperflashing while the passenger side did not. I checked wires to see if they were touching and all lights to see if they were out. I've only heard of this happening with LED bulbs, anyone have any idea what could be causing this?"
04-14-2015, 06:11 PM
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Ask the Question Thread
I created a thread for this but I figured it couldn't hurt to throw it in here too "Today I was putting new bulbs in my H4 housings, and the drivers side blinker began hyperflashing while the passenger side did not. I checked wires to see if they were touching and all lights to see if they were out. I've only heard of this happening with LED bulbs, anyone have any idea what could be causing this?"
If the bulbs are all good, I'd start by checking the sockets for corrosion, and then tracing wires to look for shorts or breaks
04-14-2015, 07:44 PM
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Hyperflashing is caused by insufficient load on the circuit. That could be a bulb burnt out or missing, LED swaps, a short circuit, or bad grounds. If the bulbs are all good, I'd start by checking the sockets for corrosion, and then tracing wires to look for shorts or breaks
04-14-2015, 08:06 PM
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I recently re-greased my driveshaft after 4-5000 miles use. Since then it seemingly has started making a grinding noise in the rear end. Possibly completely unrelated, but its the only thing I've done.
It's the most noticeable / reproduceable at ~20mph & deceleration / tapping the throttle. I have a CV slipyoke shaft and my rear axle isn't shimmed properly but the RE springs did tilt it up a bit. Could it just have torched my pinion bearings? I'm going to pull my diff cover to see if its the gears shredding in there. It's a D35 but its always worked fine for me. I don't wheel it very much, just some fire roads.
I did motor & trans mounts last year, and have been banging on things with my hand to see if they're loose. I tightened up my shock bolts about a 1/4 turn, and all my springs look good in the rear, so nothings out of alignment that I can see.
It's the most noticeable / reproduceable at ~20mph & deceleration / tapping the throttle. I have a CV slipyoke shaft and my rear axle isn't shimmed properly but the RE springs did tilt it up a bit. Could it just have torched my pinion bearings? I'm going to pull my diff cover to see if its the gears shredding in there. It's a D35 but its always worked fine for me. I don't wheel it very much, just some fire roads.
I did motor & trans mounts last year, and have been banging on things with my hand to see if they're loose. I tightened up my shock bolts about a 1/4 turn, and all my springs look good in the rear, so nothings out of alignment that I can see.
04-14-2015, 08:32 PM
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Ask the Question Thread
If you installed a CV driveshaft and didn't point the axle at the output of the transfer case, you're rapidly eating up ujoints. Fix the real problem; not the symptoms
04-14-2015, 09:38 PM
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94 4.slow
What would cause the engine to bog down and die while in gear but is typically fine while in neutral or park?
Fuel filter and sensors are new and or clean. No CEL. I thought it was heat soak but it's happening all the time now and it's rather annoying while on the trail. Scratching my head on this one.
What would cause the engine to bog down and die while in gear but is typically fine while in neutral or park?
Fuel filter and sensors are new and or clean. No CEL. I thought it was heat soak but it's happening all the time now and it's rather annoying while on the trail. Scratching my head on this one.
Clown, cruiser, salad, other veterans? Tired of ****box running like ****.
04-14-2015, 09:49 PM
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04-14-2015, 09:53 PM
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04-14-2015, 11:59 PM
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Last edited by kgm; 04-15-2015 at 12:11 AM.
04-15-2015, 04:23 AM
No, I don't lick fish.
04-15-2015, 08:20 AM
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