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Old 09-21-2015, 03:49 PM
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Old 03-21-2015, 05:28 PM
  #49066  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Drill it out?
I'm replacing the TRE so I figure cut off at much of the bolt I can and hammer out the rest with a punch.
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Old 03-21-2015, 06:41 PM
  #49067  
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Originally Posted by a_shirey
I'm replacing the TRE so I figure cut off at much of the bolt I can and hammer out the rest with a punch.
Talk dirty to it. Lol
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Old 03-21-2015, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
I'd take both. I always said the CAD D30 was fine... until mine failed on the MJ. Failed on my YJ, too. I'm looking at '92+ for the lady's XJ just so I don't have to touch the front axle
Well if thats not the case my D30 will be up for sale soon. Minus the hubs/brakes/locker.
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Old 03-21-2015, 11:13 PM
  #49069  
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Expansion foam and fiberglass or get someone with a welder and a new piece of jeep? Cancer is on both roof corners in the rear. Driver side hole is 1/4 larger than this picture. Once I grind to clean metal these holes will double I'm sure.

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Old 03-21-2015, 11:53 PM
  #49070  
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Originally Posted by drhoward1988
Autozone should have them in their tool section for about $14. It'll be a 1/4-3/8 socket set with a 1/4 screw handle. I've got a couple sets of them and they are fine.
get this one.

http://www.autozone.com/screwdrivers...et/963837_0_0/

It's more versatile and holds up better than the duralast ones.
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Old 03-22-2015, 07:03 AM
  #49071  
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Originally Posted by gunmetal_nightrider
Expansion foam and fiberglass or get someone with a welder and a new piece of jeep? Cancer is on both roof corners in the rear. Driver side hole is 1/4 larger than this picture. Once I grind to clean metal these holes will double I'm sure.
Sorry you have to deal with that, tough spot.
What I have learned about expanding foam is that its open-cell structure, will allow water/moisture in and hold it. Even though foam will be covered up, condensation can still be an issue. Could use chunks of closed-cell foam instead.

May also want to look inside the rear quarter panels for water. The holes on roof will direct water into them where it stays.
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Old 03-22-2015, 08:40 AM
  #49072  
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Originally Posted by SteveMongr
Sorry you have to deal with that, tough spot.
What I have learned about expanding foam is that its open-cell structure, will allow water/moisture in and hold it. Even though foam will be covered up, condensation can still be an issue. Could use chunks of closed-cell foam instead.

May also want to look inside the rear quarter panels for water. The holes on roof will direct water into them where it stays.
Yeah its gonna be fun. I planned on painting ovee it at least. Maybe put bondo on top of i went thaf route. I still am gonna try and find someone local that can weld in a new piece.
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Old 03-22-2015, 12:50 PM
  #49073  
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Originally Posted by a_shirey
I tried that. Can't get to the back side of the pin because it's inside the track bar bracket.
Have you tried snaging it with dental pick most parts stores have them or Harbor freight.
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Old 03-22-2015, 05:25 PM
  #49074  
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Originally Posted by Tholtsr1
Have you tried snaging it with dental pick most parts stores have them or Harbor freight.
The hook end of it is what broke.
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Old 03-22-2015, 05:45 PM
  #49075  
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Originally Posted by 88 Chief
So my jeep just started doin this yesterday. It got to about 85, and that's the hottest day it's been sense I've owner it, about 4 months. I don't know if that would have anything to do with it but you go to start it and it will crank longer now, sometimes it will try to light off but won't, wait a second or 2 and hit it again, it will crank a little longer but fire up. Once it's running it runs smooth and doesn't have any hic ups. Still getting good gas mileage too. So I don't think it could be the fuel pump, but it kinda sounds like my crank sense might be goin bad? It's always started right up before, until yesterday. What does it seem to sound like to you guys?
Bump! It's getting worse! Lol still starts but takes a while now and if it doesn't start it almost act likes it's not gettin enough spark to fire all the cylinders. Could just my coil be goin out?
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Old 03-22-2015, 06:05 PM
  #49076  
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Originally Posted by drhoward1988
The ford 8.8 axle isn't bolt in. Requires welding.
Where would the welding have to be done at? And what kind of welding would be the best?
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Old 03-22-2015, 06:08 PM
  #49077  
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Originally Posted by Will_Root
Where would the welding have to be done at? And what kind of welding would be the best?
stick or mig will be fine
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Old 03-22-2015, 06:42 PM
  #49078  
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Originally Posted by Will_Root
Where would the welding have to be done at? And what kind of welding would be the best?
Spring pirches and shock mounts are different.
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Old 03-22-2015, 09:10 PM
  #49079  
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This is fine for my Transfer Case, correct?
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Old 03-22-2015, 09:12 PM
  #49080  
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Originally Posted by a_shirey
This is fine for my Transfer Case, correct?
correct
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