How do you get th transmission line off the radiator. I don't want to force it too much unless I am suppose too

 

Special diaconnect tool

 

What's the name by chance?

 

fuel/AC disconnect tool.

 

IDK, have you removed the fuel line off the rail before? Same principal.
I used an old credit card, cut down to size for fitment. Bent card into a circle and slid it into diconnect and pushed it in while also pushing in on the tranny line, until the credit card spread the clip/clamp, then pulled out on tranny line. The line should offer no resistance when pulled, if done correctly it will come off without force. Tricky but not difficult.

 

Oh ok then. I know which one yous mean

 

what is the rear stock shock bolt size upper

 

Really? Yours didn't snap? How does that happen lol

(I have no idea)

 

April 90, 9 inch rear drums. The slave cyls. are 13/16" for the "export model", and 3/4" for the non. Anybody got any thoughts which I might have? (it does have the Bendix 9 ABS)

Proportioning valve is tripped, I suppose I could pull one before I drive it to town to get parts Tuesday.

Also, I've never bled one with a tripped Prop. valve. Any thoughts there?

Much thanks, D

 

Very informative and educated response. 9/9

Can't get an auto parts store to read the code because of some California law. Has to be from a "shop" and I'm not paying labor to read a ****ing OBD code.

So.....great forum. Very helpful crowd.

 

Yeah I've heard about that law. They won't read it at store because California believes they'll just erase your CEL so you can pass inspection. Why not buy a reader? OBDII readers are cheap and are good to have around. Better yet you can buy an OBDII Bluetooth adapter for $20 and use it through an app on your phone. It'd be way better to spend the money on a reader, find the code and go from there rather than guessing which part could be acting up and replacing it, that gets expensive quick.

 

Well see thing is, a CEl is telling you the majority of what's wrong with the jeep. That what's its there for. A great forum. Ok how's this, lets tell you to change $300 worth of sensors. Oh oh, problems not fixed, now you had to spend the money to read the code. Humble yourself ******* and have a great ****ing day

 

I need some help here. My 4.56 gears have been making a lot of noise, ever since day 1 but it has been getting worse. They are under warranty so I took them back. Turns out my rear-end sounds like a "box of rocks." He is telling me that my pinion angle being off has caused this and even installing my SYE won't help. I have never heard of pinion angles shredding gears but could see how it could happen. Anyone here have any knowledge about this? I don't have the money right now to pay for anything unnecessary.

As you can see, I'm not running anything too extreme. It is off, but it's as close as it's going to get before the SYE.

 

Your angle don't really look that bad to me. Especially to cause it to shred gears. No offense but it sounds like it was a bad install of the gears to me. Maybe not shimmed or mic'd just right. Idk.

 

Thanks for the reply. Well they are off and were worse than that before my t-case drop, but yeah I'm really thinking it was a bad install. Trying to see if I can find any proof of this to show the shop. I know a lot of people with mud rig YJs running 12 inch lifts on extended stock driveshafts and haven't ever seen any shred through gears because of pinion angles. Any information is greatly appreciated because regearing is the only thing I haven't done myself on this jeep.