I'm in Australia My son's xj runs a dizzy so doesn't have a crank sensor to distribute spark. I'm not sure if the US models ran a different ignition system. Though this is a Distributor - coil setup. so that why I'm looking towards the engine control unit as the source of the failure. thank you very much for your reply.

Update. As I have never worked on a jeep, I was looking around the front of engine for sensor Have discovered it on gearbox bell housing looking to replace it. Keep rollin Cheers

 

This thread might give you some hints. Or this. Or this.

 

So when doing the ZJ brake upgrade, do you use the hard lines from the XJ or the ZJ?
Another thing what is the little box that the hard lines go to on the rear axle, is that the proportioning valve?

 

Any special tips for getting the top shackle bolt out of a 97 XJ that lived most of it's life on the east coast?

 

Lots of penetrating oil. Heat if you have access. Get a breaker bar on the bolt with a cheater bar slid over the end for leverage.

 

CRC Freeze-Off. There's a hole at the back of the frame rail that you can stream the inner nut with. And thoroughly soak every outer part and crevice. Multiple times.

1/2 inch drive, 25 inch long breaker bar. 21mm socket. Muscles. Leverage. Patience.

...if it's original, the factory used loctite on the damn threads ...just to reinforce the NE rust (or so goes the rumour). So: heat or cold (or both: I didn't try both, the CRC worked). Turn both ways. The tiniest movement will get the penetrant further in.

More patience. Swearing helps (well, it helped me). Once it creaks, you've won ...apply more F-O. Hit it with some PB Blaster.

If that don't work, there's lots of horror stories in the forum about what people resorted to, replete with various implements of creative destruction. Sawzall. Torch. 4 inch cut-off disks. Grinder. Impact chisels. Incantations. Priests.

 

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/re...-8-25-a-57807/

Read through this and see if it answers your questions. You use all you existing stock parts and strip down rear axle to the shaft. Put on the new backing plate and the soft line of the caliper goes to the hard line that runs on the axle. You'll need to change the PV internals to that of the zj

 

We bought our Jeep a month ago and a lot of the steering and suspention parts needed to be replaced. A lot of it was just ghetto rigged or had worn out parts. When we went to replace the shocks we noticed that the springs were leaned like this. We're about to put on spring spacers and want to know; is this normal? it does have a small lift already, but everything seems to be on the up-n-up everywhere else on the truck. Just curious before we proceed if there's something that needs to be done with these springs. It's the Same on all sides.

 

Kinda looks like the axle is tilted forward to much. What kind of control arms does it have

 

I don't know if you can tell from the picture. But I circled that bolt. It looks like the axle is adjustable using that slide room, but IDK for sure and it seems like a bad idea to just hope for the best. I hope this helps, because I don't really know what kind of control arm that is.

 

OK first off those aren't stock control arms and secondly it has control arm drop brackets on it.

 

CAD looks like. Possible need a longer LCA. Looks that that one is pulling into the body too much. Get rid o the CAD and get an adjustable LCA from IrO or similar or from a member on here

 

so, are you saying they need to be adjusted forward?

 

This is what you have
http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/re_db.html

 

No search adjustable lower control arms