xj 4wd issues
I've been having problems with my 4wd engaging; I did some troubleshooting, and here's what I've found:
1. First, the vacuum lines were disconnected. I checked them for vacuum, which they have, and I put them back, but they're really easy coming off. I though of using RTV on it, but I'd rather not. Anyone else do something with their's to keep them from coming off?
2. After reconnecting the vacuum lines, I get the part time 4wd light.
3. I know its going into 4-lo because the rear tires will turn against the parking brake and the front driveshaft turns as well. However, in 4-hi I'm not sure; the front driveshaft doesn't turn; is this normal?
So, any ideas? I'm pretty sure it is something in the axle, or more specifically the part that engages the axles. But, I don't want to pull anything apart until I've eliminated everything else.
1. First, the vacuum lines were disconnected. I checked them for vacuum, which they have, and I put them back, but they're really easy coming off. I though of using RTV on it, but I'd rather not. Anyone else do something with their's to keep them from coming off?
2. After reconnecting the vacuum lines, I get the part time 4wd light.
3. I know its going into 4-lo because the rear tires will turn against the parking brake and the front driveshaft turns as well. However, in 4-hi I'm not sure; the front driveshaft doesn't turn; is this normal?
So, any ideas? I'm pretty sure it is something in the axle, or more specifically the part that engages the axles. But, I don't want to pull anything apart until I've eliminated everything else.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 642
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From: Fort Lauderdale
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
the best thing to do is called Posi-lok. My 1988 YJ did the same crap this made it nisce. no more vacumm to worry about it's either on or off and you can have 2wd low as well http://www.jeep4x4center.com/product...?number=PSL900
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 6,989
Likes: 4
From: Oak Harbor, WA.
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter RENIX I-6, DIY Cold Air Intake, 2.5 FM Exhaust, 3 Core Radiator
A good method I came up with to keep the vacuum lines on the front axle vacuum disconnect is to use zip ties. They keep them on securely and are removable if need be.
I'm not to clear on your 4LO/4HI troubleshooting. You say in 4LO your front driveshaft turns but, in 4HI it doesn't?? That really isn't possible. the 2WD to 4WD shift is done as soon as you shift out of 2HI and into any other position of the TC shifter. You actually have to shift into 4HI before you can shift it on back into 4LO. It's pretty much impossible to have working 4LO but, not 4HI with the NP231 or NP242 transfer cases used in the XJ.
I'm not to clear on your 4LO/4HI troubleshooting. You say in 4LO your front driveshaft turns but, in 4HI it doesn't?? That really isn't possible. the 2WD to 4WD shift is done as soon as you shift out of 2HI and into any other position of the TC shifter. You actually have to shift into 4HI before you can shift it on back into 4LO. It's pretty much impossible to have working 4LO but, not 4HI with the NP231 or NP242 transfer cases used in the XJ.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 6,989
Likes: 4
From: Oak Harbor, WA.
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter RENIX I-6, DIY Cold Air Intake, 2.5 FM Exhaust, 3 Core Radiator
Are sure that when you slid the TC shifter forward into 4HI that it was in fact in 4HI and not 2HI. There is a very small difference in shifter position between 2HI and 4HI. If your linkage is at all worn you could actually be in 2HI when you think you are in 4HI. If you were mistakenly in 2HI that would explain your front DS not turning when you thought it should.
Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 120
Likes: 0
From: Omaha, NE
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L 6cyl
Personally, i completely got rid of those big black rubber connectors that bring all 3 lines together and just used pieces of vacuum hose to connect them to their corresponding colors. Worked like a charm and my 4wd works great.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 6,989
Likes: 4
From: Oak Harbor, WA.
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter RENIX I-6, DIY Cold Air Intake, 2.5 FM Exhaust, 3 Core Radiator
I got rid of the the whole vaccum mechanism and built a cable operated actuator for my XJ.
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Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 120
Likes: 0
From: Omaha, NE
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L 6cyl
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 6,989
Likes: 4
From: Oak Harbor, WA.
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter RENIX I-6, DIY Cold Air Intake, 2.5 FM Exhaust, 3 Core Radiator
Posi-Lock: $200 from most 4x4 vendors. "Buck" homade Posi Lock: $40 for all the required pieces and a couple hours of my time. It has never failed me in the four years I've been using it.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 6,989
Likes: 4
From: Oak Harbor, WA.
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter RENIX I-6, DIY Cold Air Intake, 2.5 FM Exhaust, 3 Core Radiator
I have a write up in the XJ write ups section and there are a few pics of my cable axle posi locker in my pictures section on my profile page. The pics are small but you can get the basic idea. The heart of the whole deal is a hand throttle and cable that can lock in any position that I picked up at my Napa store for $30 bucks.
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