I am getting ready to wire up a set of harbor freight specials on the front of my XJ and I wanted you guys to look over my wiring diagram and let me know if it will work. I am an absolutely moron when it comes to electrical. I am puting in all of the connections inside of a hooby box and sealing it up for water protection. It will eventually have four other circuits for the roof lights and reverse lights wired in the same way.

The relays will be grounded to a common grounded strip connectged to the battery. Some of the ground wires got cut off in the scan of the picture in case you are wondering. Thanks for the help!

 

Apologies for posting in the wrong section!

 

it will work great, but you dont really NEED a rely, just an inline fuse and switch.
Just easier, and cheaper.

 

looks like how i wired up mine, pretty much exactly the same

 

ditto harbour freight lights are very low power ,inline fuse is plenty .

 

i did relays cuz im guna go to KCs once i get a decent roof rack

 

I figured I didn't need relays, but these will save me from having to run a bunch of inline fuses and if I decide to ever upgrade in the future all of the wiring will be done. Plus, I am using some smaller, low amp switches and wanted to be on the safe side. Thanks for all of the input!

 

I always use relays for lighting. Lower amps through switches usually means switches last longer. If I remember right the round 6in HF lights are 50 watts, and should only draw about 7-8 amps for a pair. You only need a 1-2 amp fuse for the power to the switch. It's only powering the switching in the relay.

 

Posted this numerous times, guess once more won't hurt ( )....

 

FrankZ: I actaully used that diagram quite a bit when I designed mine (if you can't tell by the similiar drawings )

I decided to put a separate ganged fuse box inside the cabin for the switches with lower amp fuses. I want to assembly all of the relays and first ganged fuse box in a hobby box and waterproof it.

I plan on running #10 wire from the battery to the fuse boxes, #12 to the lights, and #16 to the switches. Again, I am trying to design for future upgrades and ability to add future circuits.