Windows: power to mechanical?
1996 Jeep Cherokee Classic
I've had it with these windows! They work sometimes and sometimes they don't.
Some sort of bypass wire comes through the drivers door (not the window lock bypass that I've seen here). Wires have nicks and cuts and cracks. The right rear motor went out so a 2X4 inside the door holds that window up. Now the drivers door window motor appears to be going.
So soon I'll be able to open only 2 windows.....oh did I mention the A/C doesn't work because of the evaporator core. Luckily it's not to hot out
The question I have then, is, will mechanical window mechanisms of the same year fit into the doors without modification?
Sheesh, window motors, door latches, Hood latch.....surprised many of these have failed in my vehicle with less than 125,000 miles on it.
I've had it with these windows! They work sometimes and sometimes they don't.
Some sort of bypass wire comes through the drivers door (not the window lock bypass that I've seen here). Wires have nicks and cuts and cracks. The right rear motor went out so a 2X4 inside the door holds that window up. Now the drivers door window motor appears to be going.
So soon I'll be able to open only 2 windows.....oh did I mention the A/C doesn't work because of the evaporator core. Luckily it's not to hot out
The question I have then, is, will mechanical window mechanisms of the same year fit into the doors without modification?
Sheesh, window motors, door latches, Hood latch.....surprised many of these have failed in my vehicle with less than 125,000 miles on it.
I've never tried swapping mechanical regulators for the power setup, but I'd put money on it being a direct swap. Except for drilling a hole in the door panel for the crank.
I'm pretty certain neither AMC nor Chrysler kept two sets of door shells on hand...that would cost money..
I'm pretty certain neither AMC nor Chrysler kept two sets of door shells on hand...that would cost money..
Senior Member

Joined: May 2012
Posts: 925
Likes: 5
From: Fort Erie, CANADA
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I just wonder how hard it would be to get the parts. How many Cherokees were sold without power windows back in the day. These were higher end vehicles. The Laredo package came with power windows. Not sure about other packages. I'd do it too but haven't seen a cherokee in the scrap yard with a manual window set up.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 4,118
Likes: 6
From: Oshkosh, WI.
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The amount of work needed to swap to manual windows (including different interior door panels) You could rewire yours and fix any of the mechanical problems.
Cost of 4 new motor/regs and wiring harness, then, how many hours to install?
Do they sell just a wiring harness for the driver door, that seems to be where all the problems are.
Maybe switching is radical but I'm so tired of my wife coming in telling me they arn't working again.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 4,118
Likes: 6
From: Oshkosh, WI.
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
That's true, would need different door panels.
Cost of 4 new motor/regs and wiring harness, then, how many hours to install?
Do they sell just a wiring harness for the driver door, that seems to be where all the problems are.
Maybe switching is radical but I'm so tired of my wife coming in telling me they arn't working again.
Cost of 4 new motor/regs and wiring harness, then, how many hours to install?
Do they sell just a wiring harness for the driver door, that seems to be where all the problems are.
Maybe switching is radical but I'm so tired of my wife coming in telling me they arn't working again.
Solved:
After hours of messing with this I finally figured it out.
AS I UNDERSTAND IT:
The two connectors on the window motor supply power and ground. In the case of the driver's window, the blue wire supplies power and the white wire supplies ground to make the window go down and opposite to make window go up (If I remember correctly)
The switches push into two thin copper plates, one is power, and one is ground, these plates separated by a piece of paper for insulation.
The problem I couldn't figure out was why the blue wire would always have power (varying) when attempting to put the window up when it should be a ground. This would not allow the window to go up.
Finally, I found that the insulated paper between the two copper plates had a small piece missing by the upper edge. When pushing the switch up the pressure would push the 2 plates together causing the ground plate to no longer be a ground.
Here is another thread that has pictures of the problem parts.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/1996-master-control-power-window-lock-switch-82203/
I'm no expert and don't like electrical problems and certainly not intermittent ones. If someone sees some errors in my thinking feel free to chime in.
After hours of messing with this I finally figured it out.
AS I UNDERSTAND IT:
The two connectors on the window motor supply power and ground. In the case of the driver's window, the blue wire supplies power and the white wire supplies ground to make the window go down and opposite to make window go up (If I remember correctly)
The switches push into two thin copper plates, one is power, and one is ground, these plates separated by a piece of paper for insulation.
The problem I couldn't figure out was why the blue wire would always have power (varying) when attempting to put the window up when it should be a ground. This would not allow the window to go up.
Finally, I found that the insulated paper between the two copper plates had a small piece missing by the upper edge. When pushing the switch up the pressure would push the 2 plates together causing the ground plate to no longer be a ground.
Here is another thread that has pictures of the problem parts.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/1996-master-control-power-window-lock-switch-82203/
I'm no expert and don't like electrical problems and certainly not intermittent ones. If someone sees some errors in my thinking feel free to chime in.
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