Why do door lock actuators fail?
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Seasoned Member


Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 331
Likes: 14
From: Dallas, Texas
Year: 1987
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: 4.0L
So I have an '87 Jeep Wagoneer XJ that I love to tinker with dearly. I've already replaced the two front door lock actuators and am working on replacing the weatherstripping, et al. for the rear doors now. I had all the out yesterday for refurbishment and decided to see look at the actuator, since it hasn't worked (it clunks, but doesn't move the lock) since I bought the jeep. I thought maybe the grease in the lock mechanism itself was causing the problem, but even after a thorough cleaning it still didn't work (btw, it was about frozen from the old dried grease, but after soaking for several hours in my heated/agitated ORIGINAL Pinesol solution and a re-greasing it's moving easily again!).
It turns out the actuator itself is just too damn weak. I previously pulled apart my front door actuators and there really isn't much to these devices...basically a 12v motor and rack/pinion to move the arm. Why the heck do these things fail? If the motor itself is moving one can deduce that it's not an electrical failure. I can understand if the grease dries that you get increased resistance too, but once that was cleaned up I expected that it would lock, but still no. If I remove the arm from the actuator it fully functions, but apparently it's just too weak to function properly. Can these things be overhauled or are we just kind of stuck with buying new ones?
This post is more just general curiosity...I'm happy to buy some more I suppose, but I just prefer to rebuild when I can.
ps: one thing to note is that I have *not* done the relay modification to ensure 12v to the rear doors...it's on "the list". So I know that I may not have 12v to the rear.
It turns out the actuator itself is just too damn weak. I previously pulled apart my front door actuators and there really isn't much to these devices...basically a 12v motor and rack/pinion to move the arm. Why the heck do these things fail? If the motor itself is moving one can deduce that it's not an electrical failure. I can understand if the grease dries that you get increased resistance too, but once that was cleaned up I expected that it would lock, but still no. If I remove the arm from the actuator it fully functions, but apparently it's just too weak to function properly. Can these things be overhauled or are we just kind of stuck with buying new ones?
This post is more just general curiosity...I'm happy to buy some more I suppose, but I just prefer to rebuild when I can.
ps: one thing to note is that I have *not* done the relay modification to ensure 12v to the rear doors...it's on "the list". So I know that I may not have 12v to the rear.
Last edited by MayerMR; Oct 9, 2017 at 08:07 AM.
No, I don't lick fish.



Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 11,169
Likes: 26
From: Northern Kentucky
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
So I have an '87 Jeep Wagoneer XJ that I love to tinker with dearly. I've already replaced the two front door lock actuators and am working on replacing the weatherstripping, et al. for the rear doors now. I had all the out yesterday for refurbishment and decided to see look at the actuator, since it hasn't worked (it clunks, but doesn't move the lock) since I bought the jeep. I thought maybe the grease in the lock mechanism itself was causing the problem, but even after a thorough cleaning it still didn't work (btw, it was about frozen from the old dried grease, but after soaking for several hours in my heated/agitated ORIGINAL Pinesol solution and a re-greasing it's moving easily again!).
It turns out the actuator itself is just too damn weak. I previously pulled apart my front door actuators and there really isn't much to these devices...basically a 12v motor and rack/pinion to move the arm. Why the heck do these things fail? If the motor itself is moving one can deduce that it's not an electrical failure. I can understand if the grease dries that you get increased resistance too, but once that was cleaned up I expected that it would lock, but still no. If I remove the arm from the actuator it fully functions, but apparently it's just too weak to function properly. Can these things be overhauled or are we just kind of stuck with buying new ones?
This post is more just general curiosity...I'm happy to buy some more I suppose, but I just prefer to rebuild when I can.
ps: one thing to note is that I have *not* done the relay modification to ensure 12v to the rear doors...it's on "the list". So I know that I may not have 12v to the rear.
It turns out the actuator itself is just too damn weak. I previously pulled apart my front door actuators and there really isn't much to these devices...basically a 12v motor and rack/pinion to move the arm. Why the heck do these things fail? If the motor itself is moving one can deduce that it's not an electrical failure. I can understand if the grease dries that you get increased resistance too, but once that was cleaned up I expected that it would lock, but still no. If I remove the arm from the actuator it fully functions, but apparently it's just too weak to function properly. Can these things be overhauled or are we just kind of stuck with buying new ones?
This post is more just general curiosity...I'm happy to buy some more I suppose, but I just prefer to rebuild when I can.
ps: one thing to note is that I have *not* done the relay modification to ensure 12v to the rear doors...it's on "the list". So I know that I may not have 12v to the rear.
I too like to rebuild things and salvage what I can. The general consensus from long-time users on here - even the gurus long-versed in professional mechanical knowledge - is to buy replacements.
Member

Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 203
Likes: 10
From: Vancouver, BC
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
If you could try powering the actuator directly from the battery or a 12V power source that would be interesting. You should actually be seeing closer to 14.2V with the engine running actually.
I've taken one of the actuators apart because I thought it failed but it turned out to be the door latch that was all gummed up. Either the factory grease or whatever previous owner's had been spraying turned into thick tar. Combine that with colder weather in the winter and it was actually hard to unlock/lock the doors manually.
I cleaned the door latch assembly in a varsol tank and lubricated the mechanism with silicone spray. White lithium grease at all the pivot points of the linkage between the actuator and latch and the manual lock/unlock. All of my old door lock actuators worked right away once I'd cleaned everything up.
I would highly doubt that the brushes would have worn out in the motors. They barely see any rotation just to spin the drive to get the actuator to extend/retract. My bet would be on you not getting full 12V or a huge voltage drop under load to your actuators.
I've taken one of the actuators apart because I thought it failed but it turned out to be the door latch that was all gummed up. Either the factory grease or whatever previous owner's had been spraying turned into thick tar. Combine that with colder weather in the winter and it was actually hard to unlock/lock the doors manually.
I cleaned the door latch assembly in a varsol tank and lubricated the mechanism with silicone spray. White lithium grease at all the pivot points of the linkage between the actuator and latch and the manual lock/unlock. All of my old door lock actuators worked right away once I'd cleaned everything up.
I would highly doubt that the brushes would have worn out in the motors. They barely see any rotation just to spin the drive to get the actuator to extend/retract. My bet would be on you not getting full 12V or a huge voltage drop under load to your actuators.
No, I don't lick fish.



Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 11,169
Likes: 26
From: Northern Kentucky
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
If you could try powering the actuator directly from the battery or a 12V power source that would be interesting. You should actually be seeing closer to 14.2V with the engine running actually.
I've taken one of the actuators apart because I thought it failed but it turned out to be the door latch that was all gummed up. Either the factory grease or whatever previous owner's had been spraying turned into thick tar. Combine that with colder weather in the winter and it was actually hard to unlock/lock the doors manually.
I cleaned the door latch assembly in a varsol tank and lubricated the mechanism with silicone spray. White lithium grease at all the pivot points of the linkage between the actuator and latch and the manual lock/unlock. All of my old door lock actuators worked right away once I'd cleaned everything up.
I would highly doubt that the brushes would have worn out in the motors. They barely see any rotation just to spin the drive to get the actuator to extend/retract. My bet would be on you not getting full 12V or a huge voltage drop under load to your actuators.
I've taken one of the actuators apart because I thought it failed but it turned out to be the door latch that was all gummed up. Either the factory grease or whatever previous owner's had been spraying turned into thick tar. Combine that with colder weather in the winter and it was actually hard to unlock/lock the doors manually.
I cleaned the door latch assembly in a varsol tank and lubricated the mechanism with silicone spray. White lithium grease at all the pivot points of the linkage between the actuator and latch and the manual lock/unlock. All of my old door lock actuators worked right away once I'd cleaned everything up.
I would highly doubt that the brushes would have worn out in the motors. They barely see any rotation just to spin the drive to get the actuator to extend/retract. My bet would be on you not getting full 12V or a huge voltage drop under load to your actuators.
Originally Posted by OP
I thought maybe the grease in the lock mechanism itself was causing the problem, but even after a thorough cleaning it still didn't work (btw, it was about frozen from the old dried grease, but after soaking for several hours in my heated/agitated ORIGINAL Pinesol solution and a re-greasing it's moving easily again!).
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Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 159
Likes: 4
From: Vancouver
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: I-6, 4l
Have a similar problem on my 89. locks are sticky. Seem to work fine in the summer but intermittent when the cool weather rolls around. Even unlocking the lock switch manually take some effort - which I suspect speaks to things being gummed up.
Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 159
Likes: 4
From: Vancouver
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: I-6, 4l
Took a look inside one of the doors today to specifically free the lock up. Sprayed everything in side/in sight with lubricant but it didn't have much effect. I think my battery is a bit low so I've got it on the charger.
Last edited by Bucko; Oct 11, 2017 at 09:11 PM.
No, I don't lick fish.



Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 11,169
Likes: 26
From: Northern Kentucky
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0


