domokun

It will turn off while driving sometimes....sometimes it'll turn off and turn back on before i can even do anything and other time it'll turn off and i'll throw it in neutral while driving and can pop it back on. But last night it turned off and would act like it wanted to turn over but wouldn't fully turn over and took like 15 min, and finally turned back on. It didn't make the clicking noise so i know it wasnt the starter. I had my alternator checked and they told me it was all good so is there anything else i can check that this might be?

Throttle Jockey

there are a number of things that can cause your problem. if i had to stab at it. sounds like something is going out or a loose connection. if the engine is shutting off then i would focus on the ignition system. crank/cam/map/tps sensors. coil, ecm.

Willys55

Also check the ground wires and ground connections on the block

domokun

ok they are telling me its the computer! where can i get one for a decent price...less then the 800 bucks goodyear is quoting me lol?

CodeXJ

Junkyard or eBay?

CAEMI

Check the grounds first.

It seems to me computers just fail or work, intermittant on and off behavior is not something they usually do.

Check craigslist for a similar jeep being parted out. There are a million of them.

Bustedback

Check the connections at the PCM first. PCMs Don't fail very often, but when they do, they usually just die and stay dead. www.Rockauto.com may have your PCM.

domokun

ok see whats happen is it heats up though. The computer will get hot and turn off. and will stay off for like twenty maybe thirty min and then it'll turn back on just fine but if i attempt in between that time it'll just keep making that sound as if its going to turn over but never will. and like i said i had the ignition coil replaced and this is what their saying its leading back to.....damn does anyone stay near ruskins fl that knows anything about jeeps lol?

Bustedback

I have seen where a PCM will have a tiny crack in the board, once it gets warm the board will expand or flex and one of the printed circuits will fail.

TrekkerJmm

Sounds like the CPS to me. I would check the ohms on that b4 spending money on anything else...Tj
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CPS Testing



TESTING PROCEDURE 1991 – 2001 4.0L H.O. engines
1. Near the rear of intake manifold, disconnect sensor pigtail harness connector from main wiring harness.
2. Place an ohmmeter across terminals B and C (SEE Image). Ohmmeter should be set to 1K-to-1OK scale for this test.
3. The meter reading should be open (infinite resistance). Replace sensor if a low resistance is indicated.

TESTING PROCECURE for 1987 – 1990 4.0 L engines

Test # 1 · Get a volt/ohm meter and set it to read 0 - 500 ohms. Unplug the CPS and measure across the CPS connector's A & B leads. Your meter should show a CPS resistance of between 125 - 275 ohms. If the CPS is out of that range by much, replace it.


Test # 2. Set the volt/ohm meter to read 0 - 5 AC volts or the closest AC Volts scale your meter has to this range. Measure across the CPS leads for voltage generated as your helper cranks the engine. (The engine can't fire up without the CPS connected but watch for moving parts just the same!) The meter should show .5 - .8 VAC when cranking. (That's between 1/2 and 1 volt AC.) If it's below .5vac, replace it.

XJ Stryker

Could very well be the CPS but I kinda doubt it since he can get will start again while he is driving it. Usually when the CPS acts up. You are gonna have to recrank the engine.

I have to ask. SInce your is a 94 is it throwing any codes? I have not seen where you posted anything about a check engine light.