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Old Jan 29, 2016 | 01:14 PM
  #1  
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Year: 1992
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92 Jeep Cherokee Limited
4.0 HO
A/C delete
162k miles

Went to change my valve cover gasket and noticed some coolant collecting on this spot, so I went to wiggle it and the plastic connector piece to the hose broke off.

Gone through the manual and searched, not figuring this one out.

Assistance please.
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Old Jan 29, 2016 | 01:17 PM
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I just deleted this item from my '89 XJ heating system. It's the heater control valve. I believe mine is all metal though, no plastic.

Last edited by ElMartillo; Jan 29, 2016 at 01:23 PM.
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Old Jan 29, 2016 | 01:20 PM
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Heater Control Valve

You can replace it, or you can bypass it and run coolant through the heater core year round
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Old Jan 29, 2016 | 01:23 PM
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Link to heater control valve bypass modification:

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/hose-kits-221251/

Last edited by ElMartillo; Jan 29, 2016 at 04:59 PM.
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Old Jan 29, 2016 | 01:23 PM
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Thanks guys. I'll dig into it.
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Old Jan 29, 2016 | 01:25 PM
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Haha that happened to me when my mechanic spotted the leak when I went to his shop one day and he tried to tighten the clamp and that piece broke and coolant exploded out of it (we were wearing eye protection and jumped back super fast) because the plastic was brittle and old. So to answer your question, it is the heater and AC vacuum valve. It's like a mini throttle body because it has the circular flap that opens and closes when you switch between the AC and the Heater. It broke because the plastic is old and over years of being next to high temperature fluctuations it became brittle. It's a $35ish dollar part. I don't know if you need it because you don't have an AC. Do you still have the heater working? If so you might need it but I don't know. If you don't I'm sure there's a way to just bypass it for better flowing coolant because it will have less areas to flow. I don't know about that part but I do know it's real vacuum valve for the heater and AC.
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Old Jan 29, 2016 | 02:03 PM
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20$
Napa
Tomorrow

Thanks all.
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Old Jan 29, 2016 | 02:32 PM
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Even better. Prob was $35 because my mechanic had it delivered to the shop right when it broke and replaced it when it came 45 minutes later.
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Old Jan 29, 2016 | 04:24 PM
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Just get the 97-01 heater hoses, and bypass it. Many people have done it including me, it'll never fail again. Lol
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Old Jan 30, 2016 | 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by JPXJMOAB
Just get the 97-01 heater hoses, and bypass it. Many people have done it including me, it'll never fail again. Lol
Yes. There is no downside to doing this^^.

Thanks to djb383 for this:

One thing you may want to consider is removing/eliminating the heater control valve, if you haven't already. '96 down have the HCV, '97 up the Factory eliminated it.

During the warm months, with a HCV, (temp lever/**** never moved off cold) coolant sits and stagnates inside the heater core.....There's no fresh coolant/corrosion protection circulation through the heater core.

With the HCV removed/eliminated, coolant/corrosion protection flows through the heater core constantly when the motor is running, regardless of where the temp lever/**** is set.

Also, you don't have to remember to turn/slide the heat lever/**** when flushing/re-filling the cooling system because coolant is flowing to/through the heater core when the motor is running and the HCV is absent.

Be sure to plug/cap the small vacuum hose when eliminating the HCV.

HCV Removal



The heat is controlled by the blend air door. I've eliminated at least 10 of them here in Arizona and my AC always works perfectly.

Actual field experience has proven time and time again, by numerous different people, that there is NO downside to eliminating the HCV..

It flat works. Period.

The other benefits are keeping coolant flowing versus being stagnant in the heater core and the dangers/disastrous results of having a valve fail unexpectedly whether you're poking around the engine bay or driving down the highway or trail.
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Old Feb 18, 2018 | 07:40 PM
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now bare with me, im reading and learning but wouldnt be a downside that 'if' the heatercore starts leaking you will still have the option to turn the heater off and keep driving without a leak but no heat, since replacing a heatercore is a lot of work. of course you want it fixed but gives you more time to do so.

- Marc

Last edited by LadyKenai; Feb 18, 2018 at 07:44 PM.
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Old Feb 18, 2018 | 08:16 PM
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IMHO there's more of a chance of the HCV self destructing than having your heater core leaking. To me removing the HCV is preventive maintenance as keep keeps coolant moving through the h/c where otherwise it could sit stagnant for long periods of time. With out the HCV you can simply by pass the h/c if it would start leaking.
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Old Feb 18, 2018 | 08:30 PM
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ok thanks

fair enough
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Old Feb 18, 2018 | 08:51 PM
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Heck I was standing at the kitchen window drinking a cup of coffee when mine went south. Hadn't had the hood open,vehicle started,or driven in 3-4 days.
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Old Feb 18, 2018 | 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by EZEARL
IMHO there's more of a chance of the HCV self destructing than having your heater core leaking. To me removing the HCV is preventive maintenance as keep keeps coolant moving through the h/c where otherwise it could sit stagnant for long periods of time. With out the HCV you can simply by pass the h/c if it would start leaking.
You have it all figured out. Thanks!!!!
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