What U-joints
#1
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Year: 2000
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What U-joints
what u-joints do i need for front axel? rear? also the drive shafts?
Last edited by xer0; 02-01-2009 at 09:32 AM.
#2
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ujoints for the axle shaft in the front. ujoints for the driveshaft in the rear. i think you can use the same ones for both.
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not sure if you want all u joints, drive shafts, or axle shafts for the front. spicer u joints are the way to go. if you get greasable u joints, make darn sure they get greased at oil changes, if you don't they will last about 25k. spicers are not greasable, and are used from the factory and last around 100k easily.
#5
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#6
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front axle, if you have smaller shafts 5-260x
front axle, if you have larger shafts 5-297x
rear driveshaft take 1310
front driveshaft at axle 1310
can't remember part numbers front driveshaft double cardon centering ball or u-joints. boxes are at the shop.
i just get the cheapies because wheeling them requires more frequent changes.
front axle, if you have larger shafts 5-297x
rear driveshaft take 1310
front driveshaft at axle 1310
can't remember part numbers front driveshaft double cardon centering ball or u-joints. boxes are at the shop.
i just get the cheapies because wheeling them requires more frequent changes.
Last edited by caged; 01-28-2009 at 10:47 PM.
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#8
you have the larger front u joints
they are spicer 5-297x
if you wheel
DO NOT get the cheapo u joints
for about 10 bucks more you can get spicers.
To put things in perspective.
i wheeled for 2 years on spicer u joints with alloy axleshafts and broke 2 alloy shafts
then i swapped in one of my spare shafts with a cheap u-joint and the u joint broke to smithereens the first time out (not even wheeling) i was just flexing to measure for shocks
they are spicer 5-297x
if you wheel
DO NOT get the cheapo u joints
for about 10 bucks more you can get spicers.
To put things in perspective.
i wheeled for 2 years on spicer u joints with alloy axleshafts and broke 2 alloy shafts
then i swapped in one of my spare shafts with a cheap u-joint and the u joint broke to smithereens the first time out (not even wheeling) i was just flexing to measure for shocks
#9
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2000 should have the larger, abs definately has the larger. you won't know for sure untill you buy them and they're wrong, unless someone knows for sure.
i was just asking if you wanted all the u joints. both d shafts, and front axle joints, didn't come out right.
if you plan on changing them more often cheaper is fine, but spicers are great. also greasable u joints are considered a little weaker cuz the centers are hollowed to allow grease to be pumped in. like i said, if you don't grease greasabel u joints they absolutely don't last.
edit: ktmracer answered the question while i was typing, now you know you got the bigger ones.
i was just asking if you wanted all the u joints. both d shafts, and front axle joints, didn't come out right.
if you plan on changing them more often cheaper is fine, but spicers are great. also greasable u joints are considered a little weaker cuz the centers are hollowed to allow grease to be pumped in. like i said, if you don't grease greasabel u joints they absolutely don't last.
edit: ktmracer answered the question while i was typing, now you know you got the bigger ones.
#10
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i dont want to beat a dead horse but want to try and limit my trips to the parts store this week:-p
so when i go i tell the guy i need "..." so i can replace the u-joints where teh shaft meets the axel and tc on front and rear, what are the parts
drive shaft at axel is 153 for front and rear
then 297 for front drive shaft at tc. waht do i need for rear at tc?
so when i go i tell the guy i need "..." so i can replace the u-joints where teh shaft meets the axel and tc on front and rear, what are the parts
drive shaft at axel is 153 for front and rear
then 297 for front drive shaft at tc. waht do i need for rear at tc?
Last edited by xer0; 02-01-2009 at 09:49 AM.
#11
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so you're doing the drive shafts only. tell them u joints for the front and rear drive shafts. 1310 should be it, can't remember off hand but on the front there's one different u joint usually by the cardon joint. that one is a little more difficult to replace if you haven't done many u joints. you will probably get the front shaft down and realize you need to rebuild the whole thing, on the t case side is 3 u joints and a double cardon joint.
#12
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i went the other day and the guy i talked two wasn't sure if there where two different ones for the front or not so i am trying t find out for sure, so if i talk to an other guy hat don't know i can make sure i get the rgiht ****
#13
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i have the boxes at my shop from my tj. they should be the same joints as your xj.
the front shaft axle end is the same as both rear shaft joints.
but the two u-joints that are on each side of the centering ball are a different part number than the axle end. then the centering ball is available in a yolk or without.
with yolk is about 120 bux, without yolk is about 85. two joints around the ball are about 35 each. axle end and both rear joints are about 15 bux each.
i'll get the numbers when i'm at the shop later today.
the front shaft axle end is the same as both rear shaft joints.
but the two u-joints that are on each side of the centering ball are a different part number than the axle end. then the centering ball is available in a yolk or without.
with yolk is about 120 bux, without yolk is about 85. two joints around the ball are about 35 each. axle end and both rear joints are about 15 bux each.
i'll get the numbers when i'm at the shop later today.
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nope, rear driveshaft 1310 both sides, front drive shaft axle side 1310, the other side of front d shaft is the problem