Hey all, I recently changed cap rotor , plugs, wires, and want to change out my coil. The problem is it looks like three flat prong type looking plugs, where do I find this same coil? I've searched and nothing comes up even close Dealer item maybe? Does every 1990 4.0l coil look like this? Mine has three wires going to it / first plug has two/ second plug has one wire going to it. Thanks
Seasoned Member
That's what mine looks like, yes - but I gotta ask - why change it? Is it bad?
I would highly recommend just doing the adjustment (it's one of cruiser's tips) - just slightly bend the contact prongs inward a bit, and spray out the whole cavity with contact cleaner.
Check out his tip, cuz unless it's acting up I'm sure it's fine, and an adjustment should be all you need if anything (it should be done at least once in the lifetime of these jeeps)
I would highly recommend just doing the adjustment (it's one of cruiser's tips) - just slightly bend the contact prongs inward a bit, and spray out the whole cavity with contact cleaner.
Check out his tip, cuz unless it's acting up I'm sure it's fine, and an adjustment should be all you need if anything (it should be done at least once in the lifetime of these jeeps)
It seems to be working but is probably the original?
I'd like to change it out for a new one if there is a oe available ? Just can't find it .. Haven't checked the dealer yet though just thought someone would know where to get one .
Why does mine have three plugs you can't really see in the pic I loaded but mine has three wires going to it using two of the plugs, and the third has nothing .
I'd like to change it out for a new one if there is a oe available ? Just can't find it .. Haven't checked the dealer yet though just thought someone would know where to get one .
Why does mine have three plugs you can't really see in the pic I loaded but mine has three wires going to it using two of the plugs, and the third has nothing .
Seasoned Member
Mine is missing the other plug too, and i'm like 75% sure it's for a tachometer. If you want to add a tach to a 4.0 that doesn't have one, it gets plugged in somewhere in those plugs I'm pretty sure.
They're not exactly a high failure rate type item, and are decently pricey for what they are, at least new (which I assume is what you want, since getting a jy one would be counter intuitive to your desire to have a non-original coil) - and idk....it just doesn't seem like a part that's really worth swapping out if you're not having issues.
I still recommend just doing the adjustment and calling it a day, all's it takes is a torx bit and like 5 minutes of your time.
They're not exactly a high failure rate type item, and are decently pricey for what they are, at least new (which I assume is what you want, since getting a jy one would be counter intuitive to your desire to have a non-original coil) - and idk....it just doesn't seem like a part that's really worth swapping out if you're not having issues.
I still recommend just doing the adjustment and calling it a day, all's it takes is a torx bit and like 5 minutes of your time.
CF Veteran
The coil and ICU, (ignition control unit) are bolted together. I'd think almost anyone would sell you some quality of coil.
Cruiser's tips are right on-top in the link in my signature. He describes separating and cleaning it. That original coil may be higher quality than what you replace it with.
Mine has 4 wires to the ICU. Yellow 12v power, yellow "trigger" (5v) from the ECU. black ground, and the last green? would go to the tack if you had one.
Cruiser's tips are right on-top in the link in my signature. He describes separating and cleaning it. That original coil may be higher quality than what you replace it with.
Mine has 4 wires to the ICU. Yellow 12v power, yellow "trigger" (5v) from the ECU. black ground, and the last green? would go to the tack if you had one.
CF Veteran
Quote:
Cruiser's tips are right on-top in the link in my signature. He describes separating and cleaning it. That origional coil may be higher quality than what you replace it with.
I got 243k on the clock in an 87, great spark. Coil still pumping out strong juice. Most people who replace parts to just replace them end up with problems down the road. Think about it, there's a reason manufacture's parts last so long....Originally Posted by DFlintstone
The coil and ICU, (ignition control unit) and bolted together. I'd think almost anyone would sell you some quality of coil.Cruiser's tips are right on-top in the link in my signature. He describes separating and cleaning it. That origional coil may be higher quality than what you replace it with.
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cruiser54
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- Join DateAug 2011
- LocationPrescott, Az
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- Year1990
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Grab a spare at the junkyard. Plug it in and make sure it works. Keep it as a spare. Rare failure. Do post 4 on both of them.
I'll be cleaning my old one for now and following cruisers tip connections.
Just changing my cap and rotor made a dramatic difference,and just thought why not swap a new coil while I was at it.
Thanks!
Just changing my cap and rotor made a dramatic difference,and just thought why not swap a new coil while I was at it.
Thanks!
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cruiser54
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- Join DateAug 2011
- LocationPrescott, Az
- Posts:43,971
- Year1990
- ModelCherokee (XJ)
- Engine4.0
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Likes:1,979
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Liked:1,578 Times in 1,279 Posts
Quote:
Just changing my cap and rotor made a dramatic difference,and just thought why not swap a new coil while I was at it.
Thanks!
Do all the simple and/or free stuff first.Originally Posted by 7ate9
I'll be cleaning my old one for now and following cruisers tip connections. Just changing my cap and rotor made a dramatic difference,and just thought why not swap a new coil while I was at it.
Thanks!
Member
you take the two torx screws out and it separates the coil from the icm. But like everyone else has said, if it aint broke, why fix it? dont get me wrong, i understand your enthusiasm, but maybe point it elsewhere and refresh some grounds and connectors, right out of cruisers wonderful guide.



