What Transmission Fluid to use?
11-02-2012, 09:38 PM
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 high output
What Transmission Fluid to use?
Going to be changing the filter and fluid. i got a A/C Delco filter what fluid should i use?
it has 167xxx miles on it and its a 4 speed automatic 1998 limited
it has 167xxx miles on it and its a 4 speed automatic 1998 limited
11-02-2012, 09:47 PM
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Year: 1987
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Engine: Renix 4.0
any of them that are mercon/dexron III. technically you are supposed to use dex II, but they dont make it anymore, and dex III is compatible with dex II systems.
11-02-2012, 09:48 PM
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Year: 1993
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Engine: 4.0 HO
when was it flushed last? every scheduled time?
works ok?
I was told by a mechanic last week .. "youre about to open pandoras box"
he advised ... Lucas tranny treatment to add to your fluid .. i trust this guy .. new fluid / filter = slippage / pandoras box .. said fluid will help maintain its life with lube .. new trans fluid detergent will clean it too good
I had a chryser minivan .. hit a cinder block .. hole in trans .. a new used tranny slipped bad .. insuarance bought the used trans
just a thought .. thus I dont plan to change fluid in mine .. anyone elses thoughts ?
11-02-2012, 10:01 PM
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 high output
when was it flushed last? every scheduled time?
works ok?
I was told by a mechanic last week .. "youre about to open pandoras box"
he advised ... Lucas tranny treatment to add to your fluid .. i trust this guy .. new fluid / filter = slippage / pandoras box .. said fluid will help maintain its life with lube .. new trans fluid detergent will clean it too good
I had a chryser minivan .. hit a cinder block .. hole in trans .. a new used tranny slipped bad .. insuarance bought the used trans
just a thought .. thus I dont plan to change fluid in mine .. anyone elses thoughts ?
works ok?
I was told by a mechanic last week .. "youre about to open pandoras box"
he advised ... Lucas tranny treatment to add to your fluid .. i trust this guy .. new fluid / filter = slippage / pandoras box .. said fluid will help maintain its life with lube .. new trans fluid detergent will clean it too good
I had a chryser minivan .. hit a cinder block .. hole in trans .. a new used tranny slipped bad .. insuarance bought the used trans
just a thought .. thus I dont plan to change fluid in mine .. anyone elses thoughts ?
Last edited by XjZack; 11-02-2012 at 10:03 PM.
11-02-2012, 10:01 PM
#7
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I've some experience with the Luas Transmission Fix goo. It is a waste of time. If you're trying to mask one problem it will just create more - especially as we head into the cold season, mandy bearings and gears won't be lubricated until that crap warms up.
If your AW4 hasn't had a fluid change in a long time, the shock of fresh oil and detergents can break crap loose. Never power flush an automatic transmission if the history is unknown.
The correct way to change the fluid on a questionable unit is in little steps. Drain a bit, add a bit and drive normally for a few days. Keep draining and adding in small increments until what comes out looks and smells exactly like what went in and chunks of crap stop coming out. Then once all the nasty is out you can do a complete drain-and-fill. Again, no flushing. I would recommend that you use cheap D/M for the incremental changes before doing your final fill with your (presumably more expensive) brand of choice.
If your AW4 hasn't had a fluid change in a long time, the shock of fresh oil and detergents can break crap loose. Never power flush an automatic transmission if the history is unknown.
The correct way to change the fluid on a questionable unit is in little steps. Drain a bit, add a bit and drive normally for a few days. Keep draining and adding in small increments until what comes out looks and smells exactly like what went in and chunks of crap stop coming out. Then once all the nasty is out you can do a complete drain-and-fill. Again, no flushing. I would recommend that you use cheap D/M for the incremental changes before doing your final fill with your (presumably more expensive) brand of choice.
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11-02-2012, 10:07 PM
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I've some experience with the Luas Transmission Fix goo. It is a waste of time. If you're trying to mask one problem it will just create more - especially as we head into the cold season, mandy bearings and gears won't be lubricated until that crap warms up.
If your AW4 hasn't had a fluid change in a long time, the shock of fresh oil and detergents can break crap loose. Never power flush an automatic transmission if the history is unknown.
The correct way to change the fluid on a questionable unit is in little steps. Drain a bit, add a bit and drive normally for a few days. Keep draining and adding in small increments until what comes out looks and smells exactly like what went in and chunks of crap stop coming out. Then once all the nasty is out you can do a complete drain-and-fill. Again, no flushing. I would recommend that you use cheap D/M for the incremental changes before doing your final fill with your (presumably more expensive) brand of choice.
If your AW4 hasn't had a fluid change in a long time, the shock of fresh oil and detergents can break crap loose. Never power flush an automatic transmission if the history is unknown.
The correct way to change the fluid on a questionable unit is in little steps. Drain a bit, add a bit and drive normally for a few days. Keep draining and adding in small increments until what comes out looks and smells exactly like what went in and chunks of crap stop coming out. Then once all the nasty is out you can do a complete drain-and-fill. Again, no flushing. I would recommend that you use cheap D/M for the incremental changes before doing your final fill with your (presumably more expensive) brand of choice.
how much is "drain a bit" quart ? 1/2 quart? 1/4?
11-02-2012, 10:11 PM
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Year: 1998
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Engine: 4.0 high output
I've some experience with the Luas Transmission Fix goo. It is a waste of time. If you're trying to mask one problem it will just create more - especially as we head into the cold season, mandy bearings and gears won't be lubricated until that crap warms up.
If your AW4 hasn't had a fluid change in a long time, the shock of fresh oil and detergents can break crap loose. Never power flush an automatic transmission if the history is unknown.
The correct way to change the fluid on a questionable unit is in little steps. Drain a bit, add a bit and drive normally for a few days. Keep draining and adding in small increments until what comes out looks and smells exactly like what went in and chunks of crap stop coming out. Then once all the nasty is out you can do a complete drain-and-fill. Again, no flushing. I would recommend that you use cheap D/M for the incremental changes before doing your final fill with your (presumably more expensive) brand of choice.
If your AW4 hasn't had a fluid change in a long time, the shock of fresh oil and detergents can break crap loose. Never power flush an automatic transmission if the history is unknown.
The correct way to change the fluid on a questionable unit is in little steps. Drain a bit, add a bit and drive normally for a few days. Keep draining and adding in small increments until what comes out looks and smells exactly like what went in and chunks of crap stop coming out. Then once all the nasty is out you can do a complete drain-and-fill. Again, no flushing. I would recommend that you use cheap D/M for the incremental changes before doing your final fill with your (presumably more expensive) brand of choice.
11-02-2012, 10:17 PM
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I've some experience with the Luas Transmission Fix goo. It is a waste of time. If you're trying to mask one problem it will just create more - especially as we head into the cold season, mandy bearings and gears won't be lubricated until that crap warms up.
If your AW4 hasn't had a fluid change in a long time, the shock of fresh oil and detergents can break crap loose. Never power flush an automatic transmission if the history is unknown.
The correct way to change the fluid on a questionable unit is in little steps. Drain a bit, add a bit and drive normally for a few days. Keep draining and adding in small increments until what comes out looks and smells exactly like what went in and chunks of crap stop coming out. Then once all the nasty is out you can do a complete drain-and-fill. Again, no flushing. I would recommend that you use cheap D/M for the incremental changes before doing your final fill with your (presumably more expensive) brand of choice.
If your AW4 hasn't had a fluid change in a long time, the shock of fresh oil and detergents can break crap loose. Never power flush an automatic transmission if the history is unknown.
The correct way to change the fluid on a questionable unit is in little steps. Drain a bit, add a bit and drive normally for a few days. Keep draining and adding in small increments until what comes out looks and smells exactly like what went in and chunks of crap stop coming out. Then once all the nasty is out you can do a complete drain-and-fill. Again, no flushing. I would recommend that you use cheap D/M for the incremental changes before doing your final fill with your (presumably more expensive) brand of choice.
I second this in it's entirety.
11-02-2012, 10:17 PM
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Year: 1989
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Yeah I changed fluid/filter on my wife's altima and the results were very bad. I actually put about half the oil fluid back in it and its been fine to this day. 250k and counting. My xj is actually the first auto trans I've ever owned and I'm nervous about doing it but I known it needs it the fluid doesn't look so great.
11-02-2012, 10:18 PM
#12
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I slowly changed my fluid over 2 months. I drained, then put 2 quarts in about every 2 weeks. Went from completely black burnt fluid to nice pink Dex/Merc III. Transmission is running the best it ever has in my 6 months of ownership. Doesn't plunk into gear any more and shifting is very smooth.
Even with the burnt fluid, the transmission was doing fine though, so depending on your transmission's wear, maybe even go in smaller increments of drain/fill.
I used valvoline high mileage Dex/Merc III. Comes in a red bottle, about 6$ at Oreilly. You only need 2 qts or so to do a drain/fill.
Even with the burnt fluid, the transmission was doing fine though, so depending on your transmission's wear, maybe even go in smaller increments of drain/fill.
I used valvoline high mileage Dex/Merc III. Comes in a red bottle, about 6$ at Oreilly. You only need 2 qts or so to do a drain/fill.
11-02-2012, 10:20 PM
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
this should be a serious sticky
I cant even imagin how many peeps go into jiffy lube & sold on a flush .. and leave with a nitemare
this is my 1st auto Xj .. shifting great !
what would be a good amount to slowly swap ? its easy enough
fluid is dark red .. mileage .. unknown .. od is 227k .. but motor was swapped somewhere .. no history avail.
I cant even imagin how many peeps go into jiffy lube & sold on a flush .. and leave with a nitemare
this is my 1st auto Xj .. shifting great !
what would be a good amount to slowly swap ? its easy enough
fluid is dark red .. mileage .. unknown .. od is 227k .. but motor was swapped somewhere .. no history avail.
Last edited by dogkatcher; 11-02-2012 at 10:22 PM.
