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At what point does reliability suffer?

Old 12-23-2010, 10:55 PM
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Default At what point does reliability suffer?

I'm new, and this is a "broad strokes" question, but I couldn't find the answer searching threads. If I'm mistaken, please clue me in on the existing thread.

I'm wondering at what point an XJ build will cause a decrease in reliability. Most obvious area of concern is in the lift, but everything else is susceptible too (driveline upgrades, lockers, axle swaps, adding weight with bumpers/racks, etc.). My main focus is that this needs to be a reliable daily driver. All other concerns are secondary. Money is less of a concern, so I won't be cutting corners. I'm looking for the most capable rig I can build without suffering reliability issues should I wish to go on a road trip, or just not wanting to have need of 24 hr roadside. How much of a lift can you go without putting undue strain on the stock engine components (I'm assuming 3" with 31's)?

Thoughts?
Old 12-23-2010, 11:24 PM
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it all relies an your ability to research the products you buy and the quality of your work. you can do anything you want to it, well dont cut it in half that probably wouldnt help, but axle swaps, lifts, tires, engine upgrades, steering, long arms, four links, three links, rims, etc...... ITS ALL A GO
Old 12-23-2010, 11:32 PM
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Really Dnigolian, take a cruise around the forum. I love my jeep and really preferr to drive it out of any in the fleet. I run it 1000+km weekly. But really, look around the forum. What does reliability have to do with a modified XJ? Ya gotta pay to play.
Old 12-24-2010, 12:31 AM
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I don't have any data to back this up, but I suspect how you drive what you have makes more of a difference, as long as you don't make stupid modifications like 3ft lift and tractor tires on the stock axles. So if you do a 3" lift with 31s, don't wheel it like you have 1 ton axles and beadlocked rims.
Old 12-25-2010, 12:15 AM
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I should clarify: I'm military stationed overseas & not allowed to ship multiple vehicles wherever I go, and in some cases, none at all. This means I need multifunction vehicles. I can't have an off-road rig, sports car and family car even if I have the money, because I'll just have to sell some/all off every 3 years. The fewer cars, the better...and I've already got an 88 Mustang vert in storage, and just FINALLY sold off my 96 GT-R 18 months after I moved and left with a friend and Power of Attorney (NEVER again!).

I'm cruising the forum and sure I'll find bits/pieces to this puzzle all over. Specifically looking for answers like what size lift requires pinion angle changes or break line extensions? Does that reduce the effectiveness of the brakes AT ALL? What size tires before you're putting too much strain on stock axles or other driveline components? I'd prefer not to learn these lessons on the side of the road.
Old 12-25-2010, 12:45 AM
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Originally Posted by TheNovaMan
I don't have any data to back this up, but I suspect how you drive what you have makes more of a difference, as long as you don't make stupid modifications like 3ft lift and tractor tires on the stock axles. So if you do a 3" lift with 31s, don't wheel it like you have 1 ton axles and beadlocked rims.
Well put.

Originally Posted by Dnigolian
I'm cruising the forum and sure I'll find bits/pieces to this puzzle all over. Specifically looking for answers like what size lift requires pinion angle changes or break line extensions? Does that reduce the effectiveness of the brakes AT ALL? What size tires before you're putting too much strain on stock axles or other driveline components? I'd prefer not to learn these lessons on the side of the road.
What size lift requires pinion change: Some say 3" is the max and others say 4-4.5".....Personally I would say anything over 3" should be shimmed or have the transfer case dropped.
If you want to get really fancy you can do a hack an tap or a slip yoke eliminator (SYE) and then use a factory front drive shaft for the rear (I have 6.5" with SYE and it works great). Advantage to T-case drop is it is easy to install! Downside is the whole purpose of a lift is to gain ground clearance and with the drop you remove an inch of that ground clearance. It also tilts your engine backwards.

Brake line extensions Will be needed even for a 3" lift, especially if doing any wheeling which will involve flexing. Braided steel is the best way to go and will not negatively affect braking.....actually, it will make it better.

What size tires All depends on the axle, how you drive, and any other modifications. Up front you are most likely going to have a D30, I have seen people safely run 35's with a lunchbox locker with a light foot and never have a problem. In the back your either going to get the Dana35 (turdy five) or the Chrysler 8.25 (unless you have the fabled factory D44). Again, I have seen people run 35s (open) on the 35 and not have problems. However, I don't think I would run it. My personal preference is an 8.25 which with an axle shaft upgrade and 29 splines can probably go to 40's (I am sure someone will correct me, I am making a guess on this). The 8.25 came with two spline options 27 and 29. The 29 is preferred. Again, I have an 8.25 with 29 splines, locked with 33's and have never had a problem ( with a heavy foot).

In summary, for axles, I would say its more about how you drive and what your plans are.

As for decreasing reliability, honestly, I think my making a few mods here and there you can actually increase the reliability and dependability. I have 209k on mine and shes a daily driver. Only reliability problem I have had with mine after mods was issues with a locker which has now been resolved

Hope this helps

Last edited by sgtskid; 12-25-2010 at 12:49 AM.
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