What are the odds?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 159
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0H.O. I6
I have a 92XJ with a rough country 3" lift. For the longest I had the stock 235's on it because I could not afford new tires.
Right now I am actually waiting on a phone call from the tire store telling me that my new 31" are installed.
What I am wondering is if I would be able to lift it another 1.5" without a SYE. I have the spacers front and rear already but I did not put them on because 4.5" lift would look terrible with stock 235's. I could shim the axles, would this be enough or no. Just let me know your concerns or if you have similiar experiences.
Right now I am actually waiting on a phone call from the tire store telling me that my new 31" are installed.
What I am wondering is if I would be able to lift it another 1.5" without a SYE. I have the spacers front and rear already but I did not put them on because 4.5" lift would look terrible with stock 235's. I could shim the axles, would this be enough or no. Just let me know your concerns or if you have similiar experiences.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 747
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From: North Jersey
Year: 1996 XJ Sport 2007 KJ Rubicon
Engine: 242 4.0 Ho, 226 3.7 V6
It depends on the year of the vehicle and axel type. Shims would help. If that doesn't do it it's either the TJ or YJ wrangler that has a longer slip yoke (not sure which one). You could grab one from a jy for cheap. Also a TC drop may help. Or some auto shops can lengthen your driveshaft. Try it. Worst that could happen is you can't correct the vibes and have to remove the extra 1.5 spacers.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 159
Likes: 1
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0H.O. I6
Yeah I thought about just throwing them on and trying it out. I didn't know that about the wrangler driveshafts, thanks!
I tried the TC drop and once one of the bolts broke off I quit there. Will try to drill them out this summer.
I tried the TC drop and once one of the bolts broke off I quit there. Will try to drill them out this summer.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 747
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From: North Jersey
Year: 1996 XJ Sport 2007 KJ Rubicon
Engine: 242 4.0 Ho, 226 3.7 V6
I'm in that same boat as you. I can do a lift but don't wanna deal with the whole SYE headache. I'm looking to do a 3" lift. Do you have any vibes with the setup you had? Did it include the TC drop? If so how far did you drop it.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 6,588
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From: Chico, CA
Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.3L with headers and full 3" exhaust system
Just because you lift doesn't necessarily mean you have to do a SYE. I currently have a 5" lift on the rear without vibration. I had it at 6" and lowered it an inch because the driveline would not handle that much flex without going to a wrangler slip yoke. The thing is that when lifting the angle on the differential has to be the same as that of the transfer case. If it is, the drive line will not vibrate. Stick a wedge in there and it will and then you will be doing the SYE and new double cardon drive shaft. Just make sure your angles are the same.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 747
Likes: 0
From: North Jersey
Year: 1996 XJ Sport 2007 KJ Rubicon
Engine: 242 4.0 Ho, 226 3.7 V6
Just because you lift doesn't necessarily mean you have to do a SYE. I currently have a 5" lift on the rear without vibration. I had it at 6" and lowered it an inch because the driveline would not handle that much flex without going to a wrangler slip yoke. The thing is that when lifting the angle on the differential has to be the same as that of the transfer case. If it is, the drive line will not vibrate. Stick a wedge in there and it will and then you will be doing the SYE and new double cardon drive shaft. Just make sure your angles are the same.
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CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,473
Likes: 9
From: Paso Robles Ca
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
there is a lot more to it that that
and any one that has more that 3.5 lift with no tc drop already has the high angle yoke
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 159
Likes: 1
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0H.O. I6
I bought a TC drop but broke off one of the bolts and stopped real quick until I can find time to drill out all of them. If you can drop yours 1" seems to be the most popular.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 747
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From: North Jersey
Year: 1996 XJ Sport 2007 KJ Rubicon
Engine: 242 4.0 Ho, 226 3.7 V6
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,473
Likes: 9
From: Paso Robles Ca
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Registered Users
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 633
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From: NW Oregon
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
i did the 3" with 2" spacers/bastard pack on 33" tires.. Flexis great, No vibes, NO tcdrop or SYE..
I did get a free IRO tcdrop so i will be installing it, but it has not been needed yet.
I did get a free IRO tcdrop so i will be installing it, but it has not been needed yet.
it all depends on the jeep. i would be looking at getting a leaf pack degree shim about 3 to 6 degrees is a good range and will help point the axle back at the jeep transfer case. and most likley a drop kit for the t-case about 1 inch should do. or you can just spend the money on the s.y.e. and do it right
Seasoned Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 404
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From: Middlesex County, Connecticut
Year: 1998 & 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 98-4.0 & 91-4.0
Isn't it better to just do a full lift then add spacers/shackles? I read it was cheaper but not the best way for lift.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 6,588
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From: Chico, CA
Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.3L with headers and full 3" exhaust system
A full lift is better in one respect, it will articulate more. if you are just mall crawling, spacers and small lift kits will work fine. But if you are looking for maximum off road performance, go with the full lift
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