What to look for??
Herp Derp Jerp
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
REAR: I'd try to find a Dana 44 rear axle. D44 has a metal fill plug, D35 has a rubber fill plug. D44's can be found on Sahara, Sport and Rubicon (front D44 too) models. Take a look at the front and rear pinion seals. Also a good general inspection of the undercarriage (steering gear, trans skid, gas skid, control arm brackets, etc.) to see if the rig was offroaded hard. Good luck! If you don't want to do an axle swap look for a 1987 XJ with a dana 44 or a later 90's XJ with a 8.25 axle. That will help you out big in the long run because the dana 35 is junk.
Some 96s, otherwise 97+ feature the stronger 29-spline Chrysler 8.25.
o.O Says who, in what currency, in what market, on what day of the week, on what vehicle...?
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 516
Likes: 0
From: New Cumberland, PA
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 15,581
Likes: 8
From: some small town oregon
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
(Gathered from other posts)
Maintenance records: If available mean a lot
EXHAUST: Try and shake the catalytic converter around and see if it rattles, as these tend to degrade over time and need replacement.
ELECTRICAL: Check and make sure all of the electricals work, as electrical gremlins tend to multiply once they are present. Add to that list everything electrical. Windows, locks, all lights, heat. AC, etc.
FLUIDS: Other than that, do the typical used car check-over. Oil, ATF, coolant, power steering; all the fluids should be checked. Check the air filter and spark plugs.
Peak in the oil fill cap. How clean or sludged up is it ?
Also try and get one where the engine and trans are not soaked in there own oil...
You mention tuneups but what is the history of FLUID changes????? That is critical to long life of the vehicle. They are the lifeblood. Coolant, transmission fluid, differentials, transfer case and of course, oil.
SUSPENSION: Check all of the ball joints and tie rod ends (TRE's) on the steering, especially the inner TRE that comes off of the pitman arm. Also check the control arm bushings (upper AND lower) for signs of wear. These things aren't that hard to fix, but you will probably need a pickle fork and maybe a torch to get some of the TRE's out.
Also, one last note: the front sway bar bushings are a common wear item. I would replace these just for pure peace of mind. This lone pair of bushings will make a HUGE difference on the handling of the Jeep. And they are cheap to boot
Check out CV boots for rips
Rear main seal oil leak ?
"Loose steering" is sort of common, but it needs to be fixed, as it can lead to a dangerous condition called "death wobble".
REAR: I'd try to find a Dana 44 rear axle. D44 has a metal fill plug, D35 has a rubber fill plug. D44's can be found on Sahara, Sport and Rubicon (front D44 too) models. Take a look at the front and rear pinion seals. Also a good general inspection of the undercarriage (steering gear, trans skid, gas skid, control arm brackets, etc.) to see if the rig was offroaded hard. Good luck! If you don't want to do an axle swap look for a 1987 XJ with a dana 44 or a later 90's XJ with a 8.25 axle. That will help you out big in the long run because the dana 35 is junk.
TIRES: Tread and mileage
RUST: Look underneath of the vehicle for rust. Common areas are quarter panels, fenders, and floorboards. (surface rust can be dealt with, but if you can see the carpet or poke a hole through it, its probably extra crispy)
Rust on the rocker panels is easy to spot and pretty easy to fix, but floor pans are a bigger issue. It sounds like you were already under the Jeep to look at the oil pan, so you probably would have spotted holes if there were any.
Check for evidence of leaks in the foot-wells
Read up on how to and what you can test for with a vacuum gage. Fast, easy and will tell you allot.
TEST DRIVE: Run it up to 70 mph on the highwayTry everything on the test drive including wipers, heater, AC, cruise, etc. Check for "death wobble" by driving jeep on highway
While driving the vehicle:
-make sure the engine idles correctly (no surging or bumpy idle)
-while accelerating make sure the tranny shifts smoothly
-check the make sure signals and lights work
-check parking brake and foot brake for play.
A good healthy 4.0 engine will have it's oil gauge between 45-50.
Testing functions: Windows, locks, lights, heat, AC, hood release
4x4: make sure it switches b/t every mode, and test it by putting it in 4x4, turning the wheels all the way to one side and driving slow, u will feel the wheels hopping. Check 4WD by pulling up on the lever to ensure all wheels engage. *Take it for a test drive. Use 4WD (if it is one) and be sure it works well.
Maintenance records: If available mean a lot
EXHAUST: Try and shake the catalytic converter around and see if it rattles, as these tend to degrade over time and need replacement.
ELECTRICAL: Check and make sure all of the electricals work, as electrical gremlins tend to multiply once they are present. Add to that list everything electrical. Windows, locks, all lights, heat. AC, etc.
FLUIDS: Other than that, do the typical used car check-over. Oil, ATF, coolant, power steering; all the fluids should be checked. Check the air filter and spark plugs.
Peak in the oil fill cap. How clean or sludged up is it ?
Also try and get one where the engine and trans are not soaked in there own oil...
You mention tuneups but what is the history of FLUID changes????? That is critical to long life of the vehicle. They are the lifeblood. Coolant, transmission fluid, differentials, transfer case and of course, oil.
SUSPENSION: Check all of the ball joints and tie rod ends (TRE's) on the steering, especially the inner TRE that comes off of the pitman arm. Also check the control arm bushings (upper AND lower) for signs of wear. These things aren't that hard to fix, but you will probably need a pickle fork and maybe a torch to get some of the TRE's out.
Also, one last note: the front sway bar bushings are a common wear item. I would replace these just for pure peace of mind. This lone pair of bushings will make a HUGE difference on the handling of the Jeep. And they are cheap to boot
Check out CV boots for rips
Rear main seal oil leak ?
"Loose steering" is sort of common, but it needs to be fixed, as it can lead to a dangerous condition called "death wobble".
REAR: I'd try to find a Dana 44 rear axle. D44 has a metal fill plug, D35 has a rubber fill plug. D44's can be found on Sahara, Sport and Rubicon (front D44 too) models. Take a look at the front and rear pinion seals. Also a good general inspection of the undercarriage (steering gear, trans skid, gas skid, control arm brackets, etc.) to see if the rig was offroaded hard. Good luck! If you don't want to do an axle swap look for a 1987 XJ with a dana 44 or a later 90's XJ with a 8.25 axle. That will help you out big in the long run because the dana 35 is junk.
TIRES: Tread and mileage
RUST: Look underneath of the vehicle for rust. Common areas are quarter panels, fenders, and floorboards. (surface rust can be dealt with, but if you can see the carpet or poke a hole through it, its probably extra crispy)
Rust on the rocker panels is easy to spot and pretty easy to fix, but floor pans are a bigger issue. It sounds like you were already under the Jeep to look at the oil pan, so you probably would have spotted holes if there were any.
Check for evidence of leaks in the foot-wells
Read up on how to and what you can test for with a vacuum gage. Fast, easy and will tell you allot.
TEST DRIVE: Run it up to 70 mph on the highwayTry everything on the test drive including wipers, heater, AC, cruise, etc. Check for "death wobble" by driving jeep on highway
While driving the vehicle:
-make sure the engine idles correctly (no surging or bumpy idle)
-while accelerating make sure the tranny shifts smoothly
-check the make sure signals and lights work
-check parking brake and foot brake for play.
A good healthy 4.0 engine will have it's oil gauge between 45-50.
Testing functions: Windows, locks, lights, heat, AC, hood release
4x4: make sure it switches b/t every mode, and test it by putting it in 4x4, turning the wheels all the way to one side and driving slow, u will feel the wheels hopping. Check 4WD by pulling up on the lever to ensure all wheels engage. *Take it for a test drive. Use 4WD (if it is one) and be sure it works well.