I'm in search of a '96-'01 Cherokee to build into a DD for awhile and then possibly Jeepspeed type of truck. I found one that is a '99 with 138K. He is asking $2900. What should I look for?? What's a good price if in good condition?? Thanks!!

 

Those prices sound good because over here in California the newer models run from 4k to 6k.

 

How do I know what rear axle I have?? This one has a factory tow package it looks like.

 

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Assuming rust isn't an issue (look underneath), pretty much the same things you'd look for on any used vehicle. Engine noises, transmission operation, odd clunks and bangs, signs of proper maintenance, no signs of hackjob repairs,...that sort of thing. Overly thick oil or signs of sealer in the radiator make me walk away. Check for stored codes or recent code-clearing activity. Start the engine from stone cold and listen.
IMHO '99 is one of the best XJ years.
Might check Craigslist to see what similar XJ's are selling for, prices vary quite a bit by region.

 

I personally would recommend a -95, obd2 started in 96 ( engine becomes much less modifiable ). -94 don't have to deal with an Airbag ( nobody likes getting blasted when racing/ wheeling ). Avoid 00-01 due to low pinion d30, you don't want to race or wheel with that axle.

That seems super high for an xj, I paid $450 for my 95 stock ( ax-15 ftw ), $2400 for my 89 with 4.5" re lift, 2 sets of 33" tires + wheels, rock sliders, flares, arb bumper, blah blah blah.... 90-95 were the golden years in my opinion. I live in northern ca and I wouldn't pay that much for any stock xj.

#1 thing to look for on an xj in my opinion is straight, uncracked, unsmashed rails. And floorboards that don't have gaping holes in them. Buy one that obviously hasn't been wheeled and slap strengtheners on it.

 

If it has abs it has a dana 35, if not it has a 8.25.

 

Anything specifically wrong with the 97's?? I found one with 101K for $3K.

 

IMHO 97-98-99 are the best HO years.

 

No kidding. People around here are asking around $2k for renix XJ's. I could pick up running renix and HO XJ's in Montana for as little as $400.

 

There is a guy here in Dallas trying to sell his '01 with 86K miles for $15K. I want to give him crap, but not worth it. It will never sell for half that.

 

isn't 99 the year for the head crack problems?? the 0331 head i believe? look for that.

 

I heard its for the '00-'01's.

 

(Gathered from other posts)

Maintenance records: If available mean a lot

EXHAUST: Try and shake the catalytic converter around and see if it rattles, as these tend to degrade over time and need replacement.

ELECTRICAL: Check and make sure all of the electricals work, as electrical gremlins tend to multiply once they are present. Add to that list everything electrical. Windows, locks, all lights, heat. AC, etc.

FLUIDS: Other than that, do the typical used car check-over. Oil, ATF, coolant, power steering; all the fluids should be checked. Check the air filter and spark plugs.

Peak in the oil fill cap. How clean or sludged up is it ?

Also try and get one where the engine and trans are not soaked in there own oil...

You mention tuneups but what is the history of FLUID changes????? That is critical to long life of the vehicle. They are the lifeblood. Coolant, transmission fluid, differentials, transfer case and of course, oil.

SUSPENSION: Check all of the ball joints and tie rod ends (TRE's) on the steering, especially the inner TRE that comes off of the pitman arm. Also check the control arm bushings (upper AND lower) for signs of wear. These things aren't that hard to fix, but you will probably need a pickle fork and maybe a torch to get some of the TRE's out.

Also, one last note: the front sway bar bushings are a common wear item. I would replace these just for pure peace of mind. This lone pair of bushings will make a HUGE difference on the handling of the Jeep. And they are cheap to boot

Check out CV boots for rips

Rear main seal oil leak ?

"Loose steering" is sort of common, but it needs to be fixed, as it can lead to a dangerous condition called "death wobble".

REAR: I'd try to find a Dana 44 rear axle. D44 has a metal fill plug, D35 has a rubber fill plug. D44's can be found on Sahara, Sport and Rubicon (front D44 too) models. Take a look at the front and rear pinion seals. Also a good general inspection of the undercarriage (steering gear, trans skid, gas skid, control arm brackets, etc.) to see if the rig was offroaded hard. Good luck! If you don't want to do an axle swap look for a 1987 XJ with a dana 44 or a later 90's XJ with a 8.25 axle. That will help you out big in the long run because the dana 35 is junk.

TIRES: Tread and mileage

RUST: Look underneath of the vehicle for rust. Common areas are quarter panels, fenders, and floorboards. (surface rust can be dealt with, but if you can see the carpet or poke a hole through it, its probably extra crispy)

Rust on the rocker panels is easy to spot and pretty easy to fix, but floor pans are a bigger issue. It sounds like you were already under the Jeep to look at the oil pan, so you probably would have spotted holes if there were any.

Check for evidence of leaks in the foot-wells

Read up on how to and what you can test for with a vacuum gage. Fast, easy and will tell you allot.



TEST DRIVE: Run it up to 70 mph on the highwayTry everything on the test drive including wipers, heater, AC, cruise, etc. Check for "death wobble" by driving jeep on highway

While driving the vehicle:
-make sure the engine idles correctly (no surging or bumpy idle)
-while accelerating make sure the tranny shifts smoothly
-check the make sure signals and lights work
-check parking brake and foot brake for play.

A good healthy 4.0 engine will have it's oil gauge between 45-50.

Testing functions: Windows, locks, lights, heat, AC, hood release

4x4: make sure it switches b/t every mode, and test it by putting it in 4x4, turning the wheels all the way to one side and driving slow, u will feel the wheels hopping. Check 4WD by pulling up on the lever to ensure all wheels engage. *Take it for a test drive. Use 4WD (if it is one) and be sure it works well.

 

Agreed with Radi on the favored years... OBD2 is fine on these things. There's only really a difference between Renix engines and everything else. (Unless the coil-pack and triple-cat systems are a problem for you on 2000+).

Aside from the airbags in 97+ (which really showed up in 96) the newer engines sport somewhat stronger blocks and tougher U-joints in the front axle. Also of course being newer the hope is less rust and less to replace.

If you find a Renix gem though (87-90 with the 4.0L), some people love them. I have no experience but I've got to admire the simplicity of being able to test everything with a multimeter. Lots of mods can be done do these guys to up power output.

Radi's list of things to look over is great as well. Realistically rust and unibody damage are the only things that will kill an XJ. Everything else can be replaced, at certain cost

2000+ model year 4.0s with distributor-less ignition. Production dates began in 1999. Model year 1999 XJs with distributor ignitions use the old head, produced mostly in 1998. People on this site frequently mess up model year and production year.