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welding in jeep

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Old 06-10-2009, 07:38 PM
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Default welding in jeep

i was wondering what is the checklist for welding on a vehecle. what should i disconnect? i am going to be welding the floorboards and a place on the firewall where the seam comes together at the top i got a leak will weld if the caulking doesn't work out (I will be using a Tig welder)
Old 06-10-2009, 07:47 PM
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Number one biggest disconnect, would be the battery. Hooking up a welder will produce enough voltage and amps to fry your ECM unit. At least thats what I have been told.
Old 06-10-2009, 07:51 PM
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also i would suggest to pull all the Elec plugs off the ECM
Old 06-10-2009, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Bigclubs
Number one biggest disconnect, would be the battery. Hooking up a welder will produce enough voltage and amps to fry your ECM unit. At least thats what I have been told.
X2. Couldn't hurt. Might help.
Old 06-10-2009, 07:52 PM
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murphys law on the battery

Nothing will happen usually / better safe then sorry
Just always have a good ground
Old 06-10-2009, 07:53 PM
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Disconnect neg battery cable, keep your ground clamp close to your work area, to keep it from conducting voltage through other parts of the jeep.

Why are you using a TIG? you only need to tack the pan in, then get seam sealer put it on pretty heavy and use a cheap paint brush and spread it out.
Old 06-10-2009, 09:30 PM
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Don't MIG welders have a clamp you also have to put on? And if you're gonna go through the effort of replacing the floors why do a half*** effort of just tack welding it in and using seam sealer when you could just weld the entire thing in. It will still be watertight but the connection will be MUCH stronger. I'm just curious as I will be doing the same type of project, but the ENTIRE floor when I get my mig welder.
Old 06-10-2009, 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by BLKXJ 96
keep your ground clamp close to your work area, to keep it from conducting voltage through other parts of the jeep.
X2

It will also allow less travel distance for the electric current thus making the welder work less for the selected voltage. And it will keep the current from traveling through unwanted places. My welding teacher told me that it is possible to blow out the speakers of a car by making the current travel through the whole vehicle. I dont know if it is true or not though.
Old 06-10-2009, 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by FlyingLow
if you're gonna go through the effort of replacing the floors why do a half*** effort of just tack welding it in and using seam sealer when you could just weld the entire thing in. It will still be watertight but the connection will be MUCH stronger.
Because it is way over kill to "try" to weld the entire floor pan in. If you were to remove the entire trim from your XJ right down to the bare body the whole thing is spot weled togather. Spot or tack welding is an exceptable way fasten sheet metal togather, if you look at a FSM in the body section it will give you measurements and the correct locations for all spot welds. You could never weld the entire floor pan in, there are some areas you just can't get to.
Old 06-10-2009, 11:13 PM
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oh, sorry I'm a noob with welding (never done it) but noticed the tack/ spot welding on the rusting out factory floors. I just thought if you were gonna go through all the efforts whats a little more, Sorry for the dumb question. My bad. So you say seam sealer is the way to go? Where could I acquire some of this stuff for when I do my floors? I assume any auto parts store?
Old 06-11-2009, 02:45 AM
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Originally Posted by BLKXJ 96
Because it is way over kill to "try" to weld the entire floor pan in. If you were to remove the entire trim from your XJ right down to the bare body the whole thing is spot weled togather. Spot or tack welding is an exceptable way fasten sheet metal togather, if you look at a FSM in the body section it will give you measurements and the correct locations for all spot welds. You could never weld the entire floor pan in, there are some areas you just can't get to.
plus the factory just spot welds it in saves money and time
Old 06-11-2009, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by BLKXJ 96
Because it is way over kill to "try" to weld the entire floor pan in. If you were to remove the entire trim from your XJ right down to the bare body the whole thing is spot weled togather. Spot or tack welding is an exceptable way fasten sheet metal togather, if you look at a FSM in the body section it will give you measurements and the correct locations for all spot welds. You could never weld the entire floor pan in, there are some areas you just can't get to.
I don't think he's talking about welding in an entire floor plan. I'm sure he has the same plan I do. I'm going to pull up the carpet, cut out the small sections of floor that are rusted through, then weld in a new piece of sheet metal to replace it. If you're just welding in a 6"x6" piece of metal, it's not going to be that big of deal to weld it in all the way around. I see what you're saying though, if you were replacing the entire floor plan, it would be quite a chore to completely weld it solid all the way around.
Old 06-11-2009, 10:15 AM
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If by chance no amount of encouragement will keep you from welding the entire floor in then at least take this small piece of advice and "Stitch" weld it. That is to weld a short section of say 1/2" and skip about 6" and weld another short 1/2" and skip another 6" until you have gone all the way around what you are welding. Then go back to that first 1/2" weld and extend it by another 1/2" and go to the next one and complete the circle until you have everything solidly welded. This has the advantage of keeping the heat in any one spot to a minimum thus preventing any metal warpage.
Old 06-11-2009, 10:30 AM
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ive never disconnected anything when i weld in/on the jeep. Never had any problems. Keep the ground close, with a direct path from the arc to it. Electricity takes the easiest path.

good idea to keep a fire extinguisher close or some water...the sealant they use to fill in the seams is quite flammable....
Old 06-11-2009, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by jaqattack02
I don't think he's talking about welding in an entire floor plan. I'm sure he has the same plan I do. I'm going to pull up the carpet, cut out the small sections of floor that are rusted through, then weld in a new piece of sheet metal to replace it. If you're just welding in a 6"x6" piece of metal, it's not going to be that big of deal to weld it in all the way around. I see what you're saying though, if you were replacing the entire floor plan, it would be quite a chore to completely weld it solid all the way around.
I plan on doing everything but the trans tunnel. My floors are GONE. I feel like Fred Flintstone. I have to keep one foot on the seat slider bar and the other stays on the gas or brake. It gets very tiring not having anything to rest your heel on. I *eherm* fixed it temporarily with a piece of 1/2 plywood that I roughly cut to size and bolted in all the good spots of metal left. I know it's not right or "safe" so please don't flame me it's temporary with only the drivers seat in so I can get to the store for errands and to work until I get my welder (a few weeks at most).


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