dudeimdano

hey ppl i have a 8.25 rear and i want to weld the rear iv herd all the pros and cons but i dont care. its cheap and works amazing if done right.

what is the best way to weld the rear...what kind of welder, any tricks and tips... also if you have pics please load them up here.

xjmarc

Pull the carrier, clean it with brake cleaner, dry it and weld with a 220v stick with nickle rods. I have used a mig, my 60 was welded with my mig, but the stick will work better. If all you have access to is a mig use one that is 220v and crank it up to the point it is starting to melt the gears and weld the gears to the case no matter what welder you use.

dudeimdano

thanks

dudeimdano

any other tips or pointers

xjmarc

Make sure you don't have any splatter in the splines. You can put a wet rag in them to help keep slag out but in my experience they tend to catch fire. Just make sure you get good penetration. Weld spider to spider and spider to carrier and you should be good.

4.3L XJ

The absolute best way is with the stick only use Alstate super 275 rod. It is made for those gear alloys. It won't break or tear loose.

dirtmod0

we always welded out spiders while still in the car or truck for that matter. with the axles in the spiders also, but would weld a little and then pull the axles out for the final weld

dudeimdano

do any of you have any pics of an ideal welded rear????

s14unimog

I say plate it, so you're not so concerned about just the weld holding up. Also Anti-spatter will help keep your gears safe, but its safer to just remove them. That's the approved method in the drifting community... Tell me that's going to break!

rweaver138

Now thats the way to do it. OP, I'd take a pic of mine but Mobil 1 Synthetic isnt cheap lol.

xjmarc

Only problem I see with that is if you break a shaft or if you have c-clip axles.

dudeimdano

yea i would say that looks pretty damn solid...how thick of a plate was used?

s14unimog

pretty sure its 0.250" flat bar.

xjmarc

Def solid looking but OP couldn't use it. With c-clip axles you would never be able to remove the shafts if one broke or if you wanted to change the ring and pinion or even bearings. That's assuming it was done with the shafts in it. If not you couldn't put the c-clips on the shafts after it was welded and would be useless. If I wasn't running a spool in my 60 I'd consider it though.